Splenda
Well-Known Member
Stock wheels are 7.5" wide with +44 offset, so the backspacing is abou 6.10", meaning they won't work with most 2.5 ton setups.How much difference in back spacing does the stock setup clear? Thanks again
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Stock wheels are 7.5" wide with +44 offset, so the backspacing is abou 6.10", meaning they won't work with most 2.5 ton setups.How much difference in back spacing does the stock setup clear? Thanks again
Savvy used to put the flats on their Aluminum arms then stopped. If I remember correctly their was an issue with people using them in a way it was ruining the threads in the aluminum. I always use Synthetic disc brake lube on the threads before installing so once the jam nuts are loose you can always adjust easily by hand . It takes a little trickery to tighten them but it can be done then its easy after ya master it .Most trackbars have the flats like that. It's the round control arms that often do not, and that's what my issue is. I wish the Core 4x4 control arms had the flats.![]()
On the the link you posted for Core. In the description section. They have this.Hey yall, Thank you for the replies. I think my wheels will work. Im looking at this right now.
https://core4x4.com/product/st-j-jt...IAEQsfcwYVU6leUoWOw1GnaqW18FiTEEaAlEYEALw_wcB
I took some pictures of the current set up, so if there is any better experience, I would love to hear it.
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Oh, I didnt specify, Im running Black Rhino Wheel. Thank you for the offer and if, for some reason, my Wheels dont work out, I will keep you in mind.On the the link you posted for Core. In the description section. They have this.
"Wheels and Spacers: If you run AEV or stock Rubicon wheels, you’ll need a 1.5″ spacer. This kits works with a 17″ wheel with a 4.75″ backspacing or less."
I have a set of Synergy 1.75" wheel spacers for sale for $100 plus shipping.
When you get the steering linkage. Put more anti seize on the threads and run the tie rod ends in and out a couple of times. Wipe off the anti seize on the face of the bars and jam nuts where the jam nuts mates to.Oh, I didnt specify, Im running Black Rhino Wheel. Thank you for the offer and if, for some reason, my Wheels dont work out, I will keep you in mind.
I did pull the trigger on the Core setup. Now im feeling excited to get the new stuff on and get it aligned. hate how it feels at the moment. lol
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Have someone turn your steering wheel back and forth while you have a finger on each tie rod end to feel movement. All linkages twist to some degree. Your's might be loose enough to cause the noise.I’ve been having a weird almost rattle sound that’s gotten a bit more obvious over time. Only hear it at low speed and do not feel it as feedback in the steering wheel or seat. I thought it was probably shocks since I’m on the original Fox at 63k miles.
However, I got under the truck this evening to see if I could find anything obvious and to center the steering wheel a bit better. I grabbed the tie rod and was able to twist it enough to cause the same type of sound I’m hearing in the cab. I took a video of the area it is moving. I do not see anything ‘odd’ looking and would appreciate some input.
Trying to post the video of movement and not having any luck. I’ll see if I can create a still and point out the issues.
Check the tightness on the bolts for the steering stabilizer. Then put your finger on the tie rod end and the steering knuckle at the same time and have someone turn your steering wheel back and forth. Should not feel any movement.
Thanks for the advice. Pretty positive something is “loose” or worn. Any suggestions for what to ‘tighten’ first?Have someone turn your steering wheel back and forth while you have a finger on each tie rod end to feel movement. All linkages twist to some degree. Your's might be loose enough to cause the noise.