USB split behind dash?

[JRobes]

I did this

If you pull everything up behind the screen, it’s easy to cut it.

I’ve been slowly making progress on a printable plate to fill in the hole.

This is slick, nice work. Could mount a couple rocker switches on that new plate as well (lockers perhaps)

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[pdumbleton]

I did this

If you pull everything up behind the screen, it’s easy to cut it.

I’ve been slowly making progress on a printable plate to fill in the hole.

A thought might be to move the Power Port to this side, and add the brake controller.

 

[jjdustr340]

This is the route I was going to use in my JKU before I traded it for my JT.

Doesn’t seem they make one for the JT yet, but it would be the simplest and least intrusive method of cleaning up the wiring. Run under the pad and into the center console port.

 

[Unkiebunk045]

Not sure what progress you have made on this; i’m thinking about the same thing because of where my phone is.

Both of the USBs on the dash are a mini USB female and the plug from the car is male; so the splitter would need to be:
Female USB Mini to Male USB mini and Female USB—

unless you also find a charging cable for your phone that’s USB mini on one side to your phone type plug on the other.

just my $0.02

 

[gerky18]

I did this

If you pull everything up behind the screen, it’s easy to cut it.

I’ve been slowly making progress on a printable plate to fill in the hole.

This is awesome and has given me a few ideas to copy it. Great work! Do you have the measurements of the plate you are making to fill the hole from the media unit? My thought was to put two rocker switches in the slot. Since you have been working on the project, I thought your measurements would be much better than my attempt without taking the unit out.

 

[93civej1]

I am wanting to do the same thing. I got a rugged ridge phone mount this past weekend, and the mount is also a wireless charger, but it needs USB power to it. I have a dual USB port to use as well, but not sure where to grab the power from for it.

 

[JoseQ_80]

https://www.jeepgladiatorforum.com/forum/threads/upper-dash-charging-hub.33289/

 

[JoseQ_80]

https://www.jeepgladiatorforum.com/...n-for-12-volt-outlet-wiring.37716/post-610984

 

[JoseQ_80]

I am wanting to do the same thing. I got a rugged ridge phone mount this past weekend, and the mount is also a wireless charger, but it needs USB power to it. I have a dual USB port to use as well, but not sure where to grab the power from for it.

I have the same mount and will do the same as shown in the second link I posted above.

 

[SCDerby]

I'm planning to run a dedicated 12v connection (may use an aux switch but likely won't waste it) from the battery using Amazon.com: EDO Tech Ultra Compact USB Direct Hardwire Adapter Kit for Apple iPhone 7 6 6plus 5 5S 5C 4 3G 3 HTC One Nokia Lumia Google Nexus Sony Xperia LG Optimus Smartphone Phone GPS SiriusXM Radio Dash Cam : Electronics. I can then use a magnetic charge cable for quick connect/disconnect. I used the USB direct hardwire kit in my previous vehicle which powered a wireless charger but I didn't like the stability the window mounts provide and wireless charging gets really hot in the car which slows charge rate down. So...I'm now using a solid phone mount like the 67 designs and will run the magnetic usb cable to the hardwire kit. This will not allow for CarPlay though so I'm going to use a cplay2air to bridge that. This gets me a complete solution all the way around and is completely clean w/ 1 little. wire at the bottom of the phone mount to plug in.

 

[93civej1]

I have the same mount and will do the same as shown in the second link I posted above.

Thanks, i will check the post out.

 

[JoseQ_80]

 

[Kindafearless]

So I posted the last couple designs for these dash covers to thingiverse. They can be 3d printed. I tried a few different materials and had the most luck with these in high quality PLA. In theory Nylon is probably a better material since its slightly flexible but due to the thinness of the part it was difficult to get a high quality print. I also don't have a temperature controlled enclosure for my 3d printer, so if you've got a more intense setup you can probably do better.

I created a Contra V version for another forum member, which is up there too. It was a little more complex than expected due to the curve of the surface, but would require cutting of the factory dash tabs.

Here are pictures of the 3 different versions

Bolts in:

Snaps In:

Snaps In with Contra V holes:

Links to Files on Thingiverse:

Bolts In
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4948518
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4644913

Snaps In
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4948537
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4948540

Contra V
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4948530
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4948520

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