Well....F$%K

[Jaxmax]

Trail rail is damaged, that's not on the adjusters estimate of parts! The price will go up pretty quick.......Jack

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[Minty JL]

Glad yall are safe and sound.

A good body shop knows how to handle the supplemental claims/additions.

Since its a brand new truck, it looks like they will be able to get you back on the road in no time. BUT ensure you go after the insurance company for a diminished value check. Since this will hit Carfax you will take a hit......make the insurance company pay you out

 

[whiteglad]

You may suffer "Diminished value" at trade-in time.

 

[Minty JL]

You may suffer "Diminished value" at trade-in time.

Yes, I covered that in the post above this

 

[ShadowsPapa]

.I feel sorry for the kid though..appears she just got her license 2 months ago and is a high-schooler. I was able to her Drivers ID later since I had her mom's contact info.

Sorry, I don't. Enough like that out there driving our insurance rates up.
You said speeding, "no license on her" - should know you always have that with you when driving, along with proof of insurance, etc. - she is 16, etc. - have trouble feeling "sorry" in cases like that. They know better, but didn't do better.

Yeaaaaaaah start checking everything... interior parts for broken clips, floorboard ripples, stress to the body mount that is literally right there... That looks crazy low and having worked with Geico many times in the past, they are the kings of "if you can't see it, the customer will never know." Especially when they're on both sides and have nowhere to weasel out.

Get at least 2-3 estimates from local shops and DO NOT tell them it's insurance. It's always cash even when it's not.

Stress on mount - or sheered/ruined mount.
There's wires that run in there as well. What about the electric?
The shock of a hit can crack and sheer things not easily seen.

 

[SSingh1975]

Glad yall are safe and sound.

A good body shop knows how to handle the supplemental claims/additions.

Since its a brand new truck, it looks like they will be able to get you back on the road in no time. BUT ensure you go after the insurance company for a diminished value check. Since this will hit Carfax you will take a hit......make the insurance company pay you out

Thats for the tip mate. As someone who's never reallly been in this situation for over 20 years, how do I go after Geico for the dimisshed factor? They haven't really said anything on this other than assigning me a estimator.

However, I did speak to the actual repair place and talked to the mgr directly and he said they've worked on Wranglers in the past and know the process and they use oem parts if needed. And yeah, the qoute does NOT incl the rock rail ..I called the Geico estimator back and bought it up and he said to let the repair shop do a "supplmental" invoice and they'll take care of it.

So basically, from the responses..I should have the repair shop
1) Check the insides of the door panels for broken pieces
2) Check the rear mounts which took most of the impact
3) Enquire with Geico on the "diminished" factor
4) Have shop replace the bent rock rail (not sure if the oem comes in a whole pair or individual but repair shop can probably deal with that).

I drove 40 miles this morning just to see if something else is effed up but it rode like a baby.......no steering pulls or anything. And no dashboard lights and all the doors lock/unlock just fine. If I kinda forget the side view, it doesnt even feel like the truck was in a t-bone event last night..lol.

Thanks a bunch again fellas. Much appreciated and I will post pictures once I get my Glady back. I'm planning to keep this oil burner for 100k so not really worried about the dimished value....by then, the whole world will be on electric anyways except us "dirty" environment polluters still driving these diesel engines .

 

[ALT2870]

The repair shop should tear everything down as needed and provide updated quoting as it happens to at minimum insurance but you as well. (May have to request?) Not sure why everyone is worried they are just going to work off what insurance gave them, any reputable shop should go in as far as they need.

 

[Gvsukids]

Repair quote seems light.

My buddy had similar damage on his 2020 JLU when he got T-Boned in November and they totalled his out. He was able to work with the insurance company and bought the jeep back off of them for $4800 and him and another guy did the body work on it and got it back to where it looked like nothing had happened. I think he said he spent about $3100 and his time to get it back right. He has his own body shop so he knows what to do. I guess it was worth it to him to fix it back, 33,000 miles on it when it got smashed.

Glad no one got hurt and hopefully you will be able to get it right with the insurance company

Was it a salvage title too?

 

[Minty JL]

Thats for the tip mate. As someone who's never reallly been in this situation for over 20 years, how do I go after Geico for the dimisshed factor? They haven't really said anything on this other than assigning me a estimator.

However, I did speak to the actual repair place and talked to the mgr directly and he said they've worked on Wranglers in the past and know the process and they use oem parts if needed. And yeah, the qoute does NOT incl the rock rail ..I called the Geico estimator back and bought it up and he said to let the repair shop do a "supplmental" invoice and they'll take care of it.

So basically, from the responses..I should have the repair shop
1) Check the insides of the door panels for broken pieces
2) Check the rear mounts which took most of the impact
3) Enquire with Geico on the "diminished" factor
4) Have shop replace the bent rock rail (not sure if the oem comes in a whole pair or individual but repair shop can probably deal with that).

I drove 40 miles this morning just to see if something else is effed up but it rode like a baby.......no steering pulls or anything. And no dashboard lights and all the doors lock/unlock just fine. If I kinda forget the side view, it doesnt even feel like the truck was in a t-bone event last night..lol.

Thanks a bunch again fellas. Much appreciated and I will post pictures once I get my Glady back. I'm planning to keep this oil burner for 100k so not really worried about the dimished value....by then, the whole world will be on electric anyways except us "dirty" environment polluters still driving these diesel engines .

Yeah the adjuster or appraiser will NEVER come out and tell you you're untitled to it; that's money out of the insurance companies wallet

Just approach your adjuster with this knowledge; hell bullshit and say via guidance from your lawyer. Here in MD and VA getting this entitlement is rather easy.

I would encourage you to do a quick Google search and see what you're entitled via your state. Knowledge is power.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

You may suffer "Diminished value" at trade-in time.

Normally a bigger problem at private sales. Dealers often cover this stuff up.
And if it's repaired at a non-dealership, he might be lucky and it never show up at all since it's not mandatory it be reported.
It's a big deal out there - dealers showing reports that don't show prior damage.
People need to do their own research and deal with reporting agencies besides carfax, never rely on just them.
Too many totaled vehicles or vehicles in multiple accidents just never show up on CF.

In any case, diminished value is a real thing to go after - "just because".

 

[Minty JL]

Normally a bigger problem at private sales. Dealers often cover this stuff up.
And if it's repaired at a non-dealership, he might be lucky and it never show up at all since it's not mandatory it be reported.
It's a big deal out there - dealers showing reports that don't show prior damage.
People need to do their own research and deal with reporting agencies besides carfax, never rely on just them.
Too many totaled vehicles or vehicles in multiple accidents just never show up on CF.

In any case, diminished value is a real thing to go after - "just because".

Diminished value will hit either private or dealer trade in if it's on the Carfax. 10-25% drop in my market with an accident attached to the title.

Cover your ass and get that money. You pay insurance premiums.......make them pay you......it's not your fault..... therefore you should take a hit (no pun intended)on it

 

[ZeeJay]

My kid and I were returning home last night from a local park and got T-boned by a speeding 16 yr old (no drivers license on her either). I was driving but was able to control the impact as the glady swerved off the main street but the 33's went right over the curb and onto the footpath like a champ. I haven't taken this for off-roading yet but this was a nice welcome test . If it was any other vehicle, the rim/tires/lower body would probably be destroyed from the curb. The Glady took this like a champ.

My son was on the passenger side where we got hit but even at that high impact, both of us barely felt any jolts. This is all the damage we got while the other car's front end is totally gone. Might be totaled. After exchanging the insurance details (had to get the girl call her parents to the accident site), I drove back home....the other car had to be towed.

Kudos to the Glady for being build like a german tank! Still working with my insurance on the repair.

I haven't been in a car accident for over 20 years so this one certainly jolted me. Any advise on the repair ? Should I request the insurance to replace both doors/fender and the rock rail is slightly bend. However, both doors open/close fine inc remote locking. I'm surprised this is all the damage the Jeep took from a speeding car. No warning lights or anything on the dashboard and vehicle drives totally fine.

VERY glad we were in this and not our expensive IX (with low profile tires so it'd have hit the curb and basically exploded).

Irony is I haven't even received my 1st payment yet (wipes tear from my eye). Still 400 miles and I was looking forward to driving this everyday since I work remotely from home.

Hopefully, the repair comes out well.

Cheers fellas!

Was the little wench on TikTok?

 

[JamesWyatt]

I can tell you exactly what you're in for or close to it. I was hit like this in the driver's side door of my JK with identical damage but perhaps damaged a bit less. I was at fault, so only recourse was repair. Repair cost was over $15K, and it was in the shop just over three months if I recall correctly. They had to completely strip the interior out then remove the body from the frame. It was insane, with a pile full of all the interior parts laying there. They had to reassemble the vehicle from scratch (minus the engine and drivetrain) as if it were being put together for the first time at the factory. No other way to get to the tub to repair the damage. And that $15K was in 10 years ago dollars.

Do not accept anything short of it being totaled, and payout should be for the full cost you paid for it new since you just purchased it. Do not accept current retail value. The repair time, the repair cost, and the diminished value are unacceptable for new vehicle damaged like this.

This is all on the other person's insurance to make this right. And don't sign anything that says you were not injured or that you accept their settlement as including medical (read the fine print on anything they get you to sign). Even if you feel fine now, you or your passenger may not in the near future. They have zero power here and you have all of it.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

Do not accept anything short of it being totaled, and payout should be for the full cost you paid for it new since you just purchased it. Do not accept current retail value.

LOL - good luck with such demands.
It's used, and for you to say "do not accept" means that anyone who buys a vehicle and then 2 days later decides to sell it should not accept current retail value. Can't have it both ways. It's depreciated, it's used. He's got a contract with his insurance company with fine print, as does the other party.
400 miles is 400 miles. It's used, it's not new. It's also a 23, so there's that.
You can't demand totaled - it's a combination of the contracts and state laws.

Love it when people come in and say "don't accept" or "demand" like swinging a big fist and there's all this power...............
He doesn't have 'all the power' - it's all limited by the provisions of the other party's insurance contract. I've been this route more than once, and the last time it was a battle - in the end, the rules of the contracts set the limits.
IF they decide to total it, it will be based on that state's laws, and on current market value. There's no way in hell it's going to be based on what he paid or MSRP or whatever.
You can't "insist" it's totaled. Doesn't work that way.

 

[JamesWyatt]

LOL - good luck with such demands.
It's used, and for you to say "do not accept" means that anyone who buys a vehicle and then 2 days later decides to sell it should not accept current retail value. Can't have it both ways. It's depreciated, it's used. He's got a contract with his insurance company with fine print, as does the other party.
400 miles is 400 miles. It's used, it's not new. It's also a 23, so there's that.
You can't demand totaled - it's a combination of the contracts and state laws.

Love it when people come in and say "don't accept" or "demand" like swinging a big fist and there's all this power...............
He doesn't have 'all the power' - it's all limited by the provisions of the other party's insurance contract. I've been this route more than once, and the last time it was a battle - in the end, the rules of the contracts set the limits.
IF they decide to total it, it will be based on that state's laws, and on current market value. There's no way in hell it's going to be based on what he paid or MSRP or whatever.
You can't "insist" it's totaled. Doesn't work that way.

Sorry but this is complete horseshit. But you’re right about one thing, you wouldn’t get the best possible settlement in the same situation it sounds like.

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