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What did you do TO your Gladiator today? [ADMIN WARNING: NO POLITICS, NO GUN TALK]

Zero_Accel

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FINALLY dug out the Sunrider out of winter storage. Now I have that beautiful sunshine on a two latch quick draw! Fit right over my GPCA handles so that was nice.

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Z clips can go to hell however, such a pain to get on.
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b-roc

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Gren71

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I would at least pull the cotter pin out and check the torque on those castellated nuts.

(for those wondering about the word - it's how we ordered them at the hardware store - and later at the auto parts store. Adjective - descriptive: (of a nut or other mechanical part) having grooves or slots on its upper face.)

When these were found to be loose as in the TSB - the cotter pin would be in place, it's just that they weren't properly torqued before the pin was put in place. So don't let a great looking cotter pin fool ya. The pin will always be in place ok unless you really have severe issues, and then I'd question the hole where the ball joint "stem" goes in.
Its going in for an unrelated squeek when the wheels rotate today. Ill have to give em a twist once its back.

Do you happen to remember the torque spec?

edit:
Found em’
55 upper 33 lower
 
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ColoradoDennis

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Fascinating... I always thought they were called castle nuts because the looked like tops of a castle's ramparts.
Both come from the same Proto-Indo-European root “kes-“ meaning “to cut.” A castle looks like it’s been cut on the top, and a castellated nut has been cut (grooved).
Kes- is the root of many English words, including caste, castigate, castrate, chaste, cashier (as a verb), & quash.
 

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ShadowsPapa

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Its going in for an unrelated squeek when the wheels rotate today. Ill have to give em a twist once its back.

Do you happen to remember the torque spec?

edit:
Found em’
55 upper 33 lower
Torque plus degrees. 33 is quite low based on what Lunentucker posted.

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ShadowsPapa

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Both come from the same Proto-Indo-European root “kes-“ meaning “to cut.” A castle looks like it’s been cut on the top, and a castellated nut has been cut (grooved).
Kes- is the root of many English words, including caste, castigate, castrate, chaste, cashier (as a verb), & quash.
Yeah, what he said.
(glad to see others interested in history and the origins of things)

Fascinating... I always thought they were called castle nuts because the looked like tops of a castle's ramparts.
If you order them by the name
https://www.mcmaster.com/products/castellated-nuts/

I learned working a parts counter when shop times were slow, also when I worked in the hardware store decades ago.


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People will get the "gist" of it either way, I'm sure.
 

Gren71

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Torque plus degrees. 33 is quite low based on what Lunentucker posted.

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It seemed low to me as well. Thats why i soft balled it out there hoping you or someone would either verify or correct it.

im seeing more links to specs that show it as 55 as i go past the top 3 hits on the search.
 

ShadowsPapa

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It seemed low to me as well. Thats why i soft balled it out there hoping you or someone would either verify or correct it.

im seeing more links to specs that show it as 55 as i go past the top 3 hits on the search.
Do a forum search for "torque spec" and user name Lunentucker
He did us all a huge favor and posted a lot of this stuff.

I have screen shots of the torque specs - the service writer literally used his phone to take pictures of his screen. You know how clear those can turn out LOL
 

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Hootbro

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It seemed low to me as well. Thats why i soft balled it out there hoping you or someone would either verify or correct it.

im seeing more links to specs that show it as 55 as i go past the top 3 hits on the search.
Key thing is to torque to 59 ft-lbs and if the nut slot does not align for the cotter key hole, advance the nut to the next slot where it aligns, do not back it off. May have to give it the beans to get it align past initial torque.
 

ShadowsPapa

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Key thing is to torque to 59 ft-lbs and if the nut slot does not align for the cotter key hole, advance the nut to the next slot where it aligns, do not back it off. May have to give it the beans to get it align past initial torque.
That's the "normal" process for almost any steering or suspension joint using a castellated nut.
Always advance, never back it off.
 

Hootbro

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That's the "normal" process for almost any steering or suspension joint using a castellated nut.
Always advance, never back it off.
I have seen applications where there is a minimum and not to exceed maximum torque for castellated nut installs. Not the case here but they are out there.
 

ShadowsPapa

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I have seen applications where there is a minimum and not to exceed maximum torque for castellated nut installs. Not the case here but they are out there.
Yes, and there are service "set to" torques and along with those, service "in-use" recheck torques which are often a range.
So if this was a 1975 car pitman nut you'd have 115 for the "I just installed this after a rebuild" torque and then 100-125 as a "I'm checking this a year later" sped. If you reach 100 it's fine, but that's not enough for a new install. It's especially true with tapered joints.
Similarly a castellated ball joint nut is 40 but the check it later spec is 35-65 on similar cars (ok, yeah, I can pull AMC specs out of my hat, laugh, it's ok)
Basically those read as 40 is your goal, but you can go over to get to the next slot, max of 65 or you could break things.
 

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