What did you do TO your Gladiator today? [ADMIN WARNING: NO POLITICS, NO GUN TALK]

[rharr]

Getting ready to put on Next Venture belly skid that is coming in a little while , upgraded my older version of 1/4” aluminum with their HD Mod kit putting a 3/16” steel skeleton above the aluminum and putting a 3/8” UHMW board under , the oil pan trans skid is rock solid. Also got the HD crossmember as that is what everything rides on, ordered it galvanized, but everything in my Jeep is concealed or painted black so some sanding and wiping down, and went to paint shop which looks a lot like the woodworking shop. Crossmember is 1/4” and 3/16” steel really stout, plus I get to subtract the existing one. Going to track weights and also if there is increased ground clearance and maybe make a separate thread but so far :
Engine oil pan / trans skid 27 lbs.
HD crossmember 24 lbs.


Jack

I did the metal cloak version. Get some wider grade 8 washers or 1/8" thick washers and use them on the nut side of the cross member bolts. The flanged nut in my opinion doesn't cover the frame mounted bracket slots very well. Some bigger HD washers offer better coverage of the slots to hold things better.

Sponsored

 

[Mightytalldude]

Look into the Curt Echo Bluetooth controller Curt Echo. My buddy has one and said it works awesome. Picking one up this weekend.

It works, but you definitely want to make sure it's physically locked in with the plug cover, and use the included Velcro straps, and have a phone with strong Bluetooth range, so it stays connected. It'll default to the standard settings if it loses connection. I agree an electric brake controller should be an included factory option, without having to take half the dash apart to install it.

 

[DanD2]

It works, but you definitely want to make sure it's physically locked in with the plug cover, and use the included Velcro straps, and have a phone with strong Bluetooth range, so it stays connected. It'll default to the standard settings if it loses connection. I agree an electric brake controller should be an included factory option, without having to take half the dash apart to install it.

All the documents state that it will remember the last settings if Bluetooth is lost. Once it is set, the only reason you would need Bluetooth is if you needed to apply the brakes manually.

 

[Wolf Island Diver]

Looks like the 1st modification for mine will be to add a friggin’ BRAKE CONTROLLER that the truck should already have

I have the RedArc elite. I’m very impressed. Fully plug and play. If you go off road with a trailer it’s a must have.

 

[Mightytalldude]

All the documents state that it will remember the last settings if Bluetooth is lost. Once it is set, the only reason you would need Bluetooth is if you needed to apply the brakes manually.

We had to adjust a few times coming down some Colorado passes. The plug is big enough that it'll wiggle loose if not secured with the strap.

 

[WILDHOBO]

Look into the Curt Echo Bluetooth controller Curt Echo. My buddy has one and said it works awesome. Picking one up this weekend.

I’ve been using one since 2020 and it’s amazing. Zero issues. No wiring and you can move it between vehicles. I have no idea why people buy wired ones anymore.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

I agree an electric brake controller should be an included factory option, without having to take half the dash apart to install it.

What type would they offer? The basic MOPAR controller? I can see that one being offered as an OPTION.

You don't have to take much apart - not really. The toughest part is releasing the danged 12v outlet if you use that sport for the controller's knob.
It's pull the center knob assembly off, then a single screw and the other part pulls off. Otherwise, not much to take apart. Other than one screw, it all snaps apart (at least on model years prior to 2024)
The Redarc controllers are very easy to install and leave you options as far as where to put the controller's control knob.

I had no interest in the echo controller because BT is notoriously unreliable at times, and some phones don't play well with more than one thing connecting.
When I'm driving, I have 3 BT connections already.
I know a lot of people love it, but for a controller that will go into one vehicle, always be there even if my phone isn't, I prefer something I can adjust easily on the fly for varying loads. I have to change my trailer brake settings based on the load, and the road surface. I've hit my neighbor's gravel drive and lightly applied brakes going down that steep incline toward my shop and trailer parking and had all 4 trailer wheels lock in the gravel so I reached over quickly, instinctively, and turned the gain down releasing the trailer brakes. I fine tune so want that control knob handy.
Personal preference - fits how and what I tow far better to have something installed.

 

[DanJT]

Added a 3d printed ASA spacer to the bed outlet to facilitate running 6AWG wires from inside the bed to an Anderson port underneath the bumper for my camper without cutting new holes in the bed. I’m charging my camper’s LiFePo bank off the same DCC50S that charges the Jeep’s house battery making one big bank. It works like a charm. I’ll post a link to my stl on the 3d printing thread.

 

[GlennBeck]

Look into the Curt Echo Bluetooth controller Curt Echo. My buddy has one and said it works awesome. Picking one up this weekend.

Did the REDARC Tow-Pro Liberty Electric Trailer Brake Controller Kit ($150) and it was super easy. if you may reconsidering other trailer controllers I can go out and take some shots of the installation and switch position.

A good installation video for it here:

 

[GlennBeck]

Looks like the 1st modification for mine will be to add a friggin’ BRAKE CONTROLLER that the truck should already have

And it shouldn't be installed where the 12v port is. Take away something to add something. Dumb.

 

[DanJT]

Well, I finally got around to installing the geometric correction brackets on the Gladdy
And did it ever make a difference. Got rid of the serious wobble issue and feels sturdier on uneven roads. Glad I got that out of the way.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

And it shouldn't be installed where the 12v port is. Take away something to add something. Dumb.

I was wondering if there's room in that small panel under the light switch - where the factory installs the switch for the bed 115v outlet/inverter.
Looks like that small panel pops out.
My only fear is my leg/knee hitting it when getting in or out as without the power steps on, I've turned the headlights on more than once with my leg.

On my 2022, I moved the 12v outlet to the glove box area. It's so very seldom used, very rarely, in fact, but there were times, so I moved it.

 

[GlennBeck]

I was wondering if there's room in that small panel under the light switch - where the factory installs the switch for the bed 115v outlet/inverter.
Looks like that small panel pops out.
My only fear is my leg/knee hitting it when getting in or out as without the power steps on, I've turned the headlights on more than once with my leg.

On my 2022, I moved the 12v outlet to the glove box area. It's so very seldom used, very rarely, in fact, but there were times, so I moved it.

There is space back behind the Inverter power switch panel that may work, but you’ll have to remove half the dashboard to run the wires into it. I have installed the 115v wiring harness and plug outlet in and under the bed, but even though I have been able to get both the light control and inverter control blank panels off, there is so much in the way to permit me to snake the wire harness though. I haven't been able to locate the cannon plug for the inverter by doing this, so I am now forced to disassemble the dash just to get the left facia / speaker access so I can get into there to find the plug. I installed the Redarc Tow-Pro and mounted the control dial to the, easily removable, panel below the steering wheel.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

There is space back behind the Inverter power switch panel that may work, but you’ll have to remove half the dashboard to run the wires into it. I have installed the 115v wiring harness and plug outlet in and under the bed, but even though I have been able to get both the light control and inverter control blank panels off, there is so much in the way to permit me to snake the wire harness though. I haven't been able to locate the cannon plug for the inverter by doing this, so I am now forced to disassemble the dash just to get the left facia / speaker access so I can get into there to find the plug. I installed the Redarc Tow-Pro and mounted the control dial to the, easily removable, panel below the steering wheel.

My Redarc controller uses a cable like a CAT3 4 pair network cable with RJ45 ends.
So if I could push a network cable through the opening and grab it from behind, it might work, but I am concerned about hitting it getting in and out after my experiences the last couple of days. I want it visible and easily reached with left hand.
I'll have to think about it a bit, I guess.

 

[GlennBeck]

My Redarc controller uses a cable like a CAT3 4 pair network cable with RJ45 ends.
So if I could push a network cable through the opening and grab it from behind, it might work, but I am concerned about hitting it getting in and out after my experiences the last couple of days. I want it visible and easily reached with left hand.
I'll have to think about it a bit, I guess.

I'll attach pics of my setup in a bit. I am in a meeting right now.

Sponsored