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What did you do TO your Gladiator today? [ADMIN WARNING: NO POLITICS, NO GUN TALK]

WILDHOBO

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WILDHOBO

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Just talked to revolution and my Dana Spicer specs that call for 75-140 are not correct for these gears. They want 80w-90 for break-in, and either 80w-90 or 85w-140 for normal use. And they absolutely do not want synthetic oil used for these gears. I learned more. Glad it’s still empty.
 

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Just talked to revolution and my Dana Spicer specs that call for 75-140 are not correct for these gears. They want 80w-90 for break-in, and either 80w-90 or 85w-140 for normal use. And they absolutely do not want synthetic oil used for these gears. I learned more. Glad it’s still empty.
That seems odd to me, synthetic oil is usually better in most categories than regular oil…someone please school me down this twisted road. Thanks
 

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Just talked to revolution and my Dana Spicer specs that call for 75-140 are not correct for these gears. They want 80w-90 for break-in, and either 80w-90 or 85w-140 for normal use. And they absolutely do not want synthetic oil used for these gears. I learned more. Glad it’s still empty.
Not the first I have heard of a gearing/axle maker recommending non synthetic.

You running a FAD delete?
 

WILDHOBO

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Not the first I have heard of a gearing/axle maker recommending non synthetic.

You running a FAD delete?
No fad delete for me ever. That outer axle seal fails under the weight of a one piece shaft.
 

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ShadowsPapa

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That seems odd to me, synthetic oil is usually better in most categories than regular oil…someone please school me down this twisted road. Thanks
Sometimes there's not so much science behind it as it is "we've had some failures" and it's blamed on synthetic rather than the BRAND and weight and so on.
Many of us run synthetic in RACING situations with no issues.
I might see not using it for break in.
And keep in mind - the factory gears are pre-burnished. New replacements from the aftermarket are not. So break-in of his gears is critical, not so much on the factory installed gears.
 

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Removed the bearing and pitman nut from my Synergy sectorshaft/track bar brace. Not enough room for the track bar when running Rock Jock High steer. Thought it looked close. A good size dip in the road confirmed that today.
 

Stan H

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That seems odd to me, synthetic oil is usually better in most categories than regular oil…someone please school me down this twisted road. Thanks
Down the Rabbit 🐇 hole 🕳 we go.
I just hope that drink and cake is still there . This is gonna get interesting
 

WILDHOBO

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That seems odd to me, synthetic oil is usually better in most categories than regular oil…someone please school me down this twisted road. Thanks
I talked to revolution. Conventional is apparently better at heat dissipation. From now on I’ll be running revolution branded gear lube. 75w-140 is called for with Dana spicer gears though, so don’t everyone empty and refill their diffs. I’m making this decision because the company that makes the gears said to. They actually said if I broke them in with synthetic I’d damage them.
 

Stan H

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Just talked to revolution and my Dana Spicer specs that call for 75-140 are not correct for these gears. They want 80w-90 for break-in, and either 80w-90 or 85w-140 for normal use. And they absolutely do not want synthetic oil used for these gears. I learned more. Glad it’s still empty.
I would almost go so far as to say something is weird about that.
I think maybe that BG oil might do the trick. Wonder if they make gear oil ?🤭🤣
 

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WILDHOBO

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I would almost go so far as to say something is weird about that.
I think maybe that BG oil might do the trick. Wonder if they make gear oil ?🤭🤣
I’m no expert, but I don’t think it’s weird. As @ShadowsPapa said, aftermarket gears are made and prepped differently than Dana made Oem gears. I’ll trust the company that made the gears regarding which oil to protect them. It’ll be interesting to see if I get more life out of them. No way to prove it with the rears, but it’d be an interesting experiment if that were possible with my tiny checkbook.
 

WILDHOBO

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Heck, they cover the warranty!
In goes the breakin fluid. Anyone know how long to rotate the diff with the raised driver side to feed the fad?

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Stan H

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In goes the breakin fluid. Anyone know how long to rotate the diff with the raised driver side to feed the fad?

image.jpg
No sure , take the fade off and take a peekabo.
 

WILDHOBO

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No sure , take the fade off and take a peekabo.
That’s quite difficult on mine. LCA skid is in the way of removing fad skid. So LCA skid needs to come off first, then fad skid, then fad, then reverse all that.

I couldn’t find an answer so I elevated the driver side, and rotated the diff like 30 times in both directions. I do know that’s the method to feed it, but couldn’t find more specifics.
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