What did you do TO your Gladiator today? [ADMIN WARNING: NO POLITICS, NO GUN TALK]

[TTEChris]

Removed my hard top in favor of a factory twill soft top. Hopefully I’ll have some time this weekend to unbox and install the half doors I purchased last week.

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[Mightytalldude]

looks good Dan but when are the 40s coming? hmmmmmmmmmmm?

He'll inch into them. First 38, then 39, and eventually 40. Knowing his rig, stock spare location and weight of wheel/tire combo are slowing his immediate transformation to 40's.

 

[HCoopo]

Need to get better pictures, but finally got my bronze wheels on. Thrilled with how the color scheme worked out.

 

[WILDHOBO]

He'll inch into them. First 38, then 39, and eventually 40. Knowing his rig, stock spare location and weight of wheel/tire combo are slowing his immediate transformation to 40's.

They definitely are.

 

[WILDHOBO]

Need to get better pictures, but finally got my bronze wheels on. Thrilled with how the color scheme worked out.

Looks great. I love bronze. I was hesitant before I did it, but absolutely love them.

 

[WILDHOBO]

Shortened the rear upper control arms to decrease spring bow. I’m at 3 degrees up at the pinion now, but Adams said that should be fine. I called them before doing adjustments. The control arms had been on so long that I had to remove them completely to wash the Moab dirt out of the inside. There was so much it was preventing the ends from threading in. Needless to say, lots more Antiseize went on to clean it up and get it them moving smoothly again.

Then cut some useless crap off. I’m pretty sure this thing above the rear axle is to prevent the diff from hitting the bed. My track bar was going to hit it when stiffing the passenger rear tire. It wasn’t an issue until doing the track bar relocation. But now is. So now it’s smaller. If it were on a lift, I might have taken the time to use a cutoff wheel and go along the welds to remove the whole thing. But on my back, sawzall.

Then replaced the now too short rear swaybar links with 16+” Evo links. I think the heim joints might make noise, but we’ll see soon enough. If they do I’ll add I bushing up top. Or maybe just a 1/4” cross sleeve between the link and frame bracket. The previous angle on the sway bar was 18 degrees up. Now it’s 1.4 degrees.

 

[gonemad]

Put two Hot Heads headliners in the front T tops. Waiting for another dry day to take the rest of the top off to finish the job.

They cool things off.

 

[Stan H]

Shortened the rear upper control arms to decrease spring bow. I’m at 3 degrees up at the pinion now, but Adams said that should be fine. I called them before doing adjustments. The control arms had been on so long that I had to remove them completely to wash the Moab dirt out of the inside. There was so much it was preventing the ends from threading in. Needless to say, lots more Antiseize went on to clean it up and get it them moving smoothly again.

Then cut some useless crap off. I’m pretty sure this thing above the rear axle is to prevent the diff from hitting the bed. My track bar was going to hit it when stiffing the passenger rear tire. It wasn’t an issue until doing the track bar relocation. But now is. So now it’s smaller. If it were on a lift, I might have taken the time to use a cutoff wheel and go along the welds to remove the whole thing. But on my back, sawzall.

Then replaced the now too short rear swaybar links with 16+” Evo links. I think the heim joints might make noise, but we’ll see soon enough. If they do I’ll add I bushing up top. Or maybe just a 1/4” cross sleeve between the link and frame bracket. The previous angle on the sway bar was 18 degrees up. Now it’s 1.4 degrees.

I aint got a clue what that thing is ?
Obviously a domaflochy for a watchamacallit. Dunno , but I say your on right track with guard of some type .

 

[WILDHOBO]

I aint got a clue what that thing is ?
Obviously a domaflochy for a watchamacallit. Dunno , but I say your on right track with guard of some type .

I genuinely think it’s to prevent the pumpkin from hitting the underside of the bed on a stock rig loaded down with weight. It was in my way.

 

[Stan H]

I genuinely think it’s to prevent the pumpkin from hitting the underside of the bed on a stock rig loaded down with weight. It was in my way.

Lol, when in doubt cut it out !!!

 

[WILDHOBO]

Lol, when in doubt cut it out !!!

Bye bye stupid thing.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

I’m at 3 degrees up at the pinion now, but Adams said that should be fine.

You are nearing the max but if the driveshaft speed doesn't exceed a speed I can't recall right now, it could be on the edge.
I suspect you'll be ok - I'd try to avoid much more with a single cardan joint.
I'd have to do some math - nah, not tonight.........

 

[Hootbro]

I genuinely think it’s to prevent the pumpkin from hitting the underside of the bed on a stock rig loaded down with weight. It was in my way.

There was also the few rare manuals that came with the center mount axle hop shock.

Picture stolen from @Sawburner

 

[ShadowsPapa]

There was also the few rare manuals that came with the center mount axle hop shock.

Picture stolen from @Sawburner

I have had severe axle hop with a prior JT in the snow pulling my trailer up an incline. It was so bad I thought I was going to break something. I really wish that JT had that "shock" on it at the time.
With the close proximity of the upper and lower control arms to each other, I'm surprised more people haven't had that problem.

 

[WILDHOBO]

You are nearing the max but if the driveshaft speed doesn't exceed a speed I can't recall right now, it could be on the edge.
I suspect you'll be ok - I'd try to avoid much more with a single cardan joint.
I'd have to do some math - nah, not tonight.........

Double cardan on the other end.

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