WILDHOBO
Well-Known Member
@Mightytalldude has it.There was also the few rare manuals that came with the center mount axle hop shock.
Picture stolen from @Sawburner
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@Mightytalldude has it.There was also the few rare manuals that came with the center mount axle hop shock.
Picture stolen from @Sawburner
![]()
I have the anti hop shock with my manual JT, but I haven't driven any other JT without it, so nothing to compare it to, to say that it makes a difference. It's also found on some Ram HD variations. Not a cheap shock to replace.I have had severe axle hop with a prior JT in the snow pulling my trailer up an incline. It was so bad I thought I was going to break something. I really wish that JT had that "shock" on it at the time.
With the close proximity of the upper and lower control arms to each other, I'm surprised more people haven't had that problem.
Double won't be a problem - but a single cardan joint can only go so far because there's no cancelling effect of another single on the shaft.Double cardan on the other end.
I called Adam’s before I adjusted it to see if they were good with a little more angle. They said it runs best at 2-3 degrees.Double won't be a problem - but a single cardan joint can only go so far because there's no cancelling effect of another single on the shaft.
I absolutely am surprised I haven't. I have done so many dashboard roads . I really think its the shocks I got that have prevented this from occurring with any regularity or concer on my part. The Automatic really soaks it up also.I have had severe axle hop with a prior JT in the snow pulling my trailer up an incline. It was so bad I thought I was going to break something. I really wish that JT had that "shock" on it at the time.
With the close proximity of the upper and lower control arms to each other, I'm surprised more people haven't had that problem.
I installed the rear diff shock on my Mojave , wheel hop in the sand happened with the Mojave then the other seven trucks I have had on the sand over forty years. Was not terrible but the shock stopped it totally can’t make it happen now and only way to say it is the rear end just feels planted and tighter. I consider it a great mod. Have to thank Matt “Green71” who brought up to us, he is gone now moved onto full-size for towing a big camper ……Jack@Minty JL I believe bought it and installed on his ..I think so![]()
expedition one is having a fourth of july sale giving 25% off. that drops the price of the bumper tire carrier from $2,460 down to $2,091. the arm can be customized to carry a jack or a gas can. hmmmmm, maybe the kids could work for a year between high school and college! if for some reason you were in moab this summer, you could run up to odgen ut to pick it up to save on shipping. pay for it now of course.They definitely are.
Staggered shock are how car companies helped control it years ago. The axle literally winds up, the suspension like a spring, then suddenly unwinds, and starts over. It's not washboard roads that do it. You likely have never experienced it. The only solution when it happens is let off the gasI absolutely am surprised I haven't. I have done so many dashboard roads . I really think its the shocks I got that have prevented this from occurring with any regularity or concer on my part. The Automatic really soaks it up also.
Yeah, you don't want 0 either. It'll wear them badly.I called Adam’s before I adjusted it to see if they were good with a little more angle. they said it runs best at 2-3 degrees.
Back in my Toyota days, or even my CJ5, leaf spring type vehicles, I'd set them up with negative 2 or 3 degrees. The leaf springs would allow the pinion to climb under excelleration, so a little negative worked good.I called Adam’s before I adjusted it to see if they were good with a little more angle. They said it runs best at 2-3 degrees.
I’ll take pictures later with the angle finder on it.Yeah, you don't want 0 either. It'll wear them badly.
I have the two piece from Adam’s.Back in my Toyota days, or even my CJ5, leaf spring type vehicles, I'd set them up with negative 2 or 3 degrees. The leaf springs would allow the pinion to climb under excelleration, so a little negative worked good.
I was always told by the local driveline shop that you don't won't 0 degrees in a Ujoint because it will wear out faster. The theory was that the needles wouldn't rotate, and they would flat spot. The cross and cap would also get divots from the stationary needles.
Just for clarification, these degrees are the difference between the driveline and the pinion. Or difference between driveline and trasfercase. Double cardan (CV style) drivelines needs the pinion pointed at the driveline shaft. Where a single cardin (standard) driveline, the pinion and transfercase need to be parallel. Don't get started on a multi piece drivelines with carrier bearings and 3 or more single Ujoints in it.
That's a lot of mathin to do. My head hurts just thinking about it.I have the two piece from Adam’s.
Single cardan 1350 at the transfer case
Double cardan 1350 at the carrier bearing, with an offset spacer
Single cardan 1350 at the pinion
I’m currently about 3 degrees down at the pinion. Meaning the driveshaft tube goes up 3 degrees from the pinion.
You got it. I know you went through all that a while back. You'll be fine.I have the two piece from Adam’s.
Single cardan 1350 at the transfer case
Double cardan 1350 at the carrier bearing, with an offset spacer
Single cardan 1350 at the pinion
I’m currently about 3 degrees down at the pinion. Meaning the driveshaft tube goes up 3 degrees from the pinion.