Whining/Grinding when turning left or right

[Johndd]

Those are supposed to be changed every 40 thousand miles . But if the wheels aren't rolling then noise can only come from 3 places . Steering gear box , power steering pump( electric that is ) or a piece of the linkage such as tiered or ball joints.

Only thing is ball joints usually make a clunking noise when loose or wore out. I'll see if I can better get the chattering noise to capture tonite. So to you this does not seem like a diff issue?

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[froril]

It won’t hurt to change the fluid, but it seems like that’s coming from the front end somewhere. I’d put someone else in the drivers seat to have them turn the steering wheel and crawl under there and look and listen to find where it’s coming from.

Limited slip noise on these usually sounds more like a chatter kind of locking and unlocking.

If you do change the fluid, which isn’t a bad idea at that mileage, make sure you get the limited slip additive from the dealer. I like the Valvoline diff fluid in the bag way easier to deal with than the plastic jugs.

 

[Silverator]

check to see if your tie rod is rubbing on the inside of your wheel(s). After doing a lift, aftermarket steering upgrade and 35" tires, the new tie rod BARELY rubbed on the inner part of the stock wheel. Sounded horrible, and sounded worse than it was. Getting new wheels with appropriate offset solved the problems.

 

[Johndd]

It won’t hurt to change the fluid, but it seems like that’s coming from the front end somewhere. I’d put someone else in the drivers seat to have them turn the steering wheel and crawl under there and look and listen to find where it’s coming from.

Limited slip noise on these usually sounds more like a chatter kind of locking and unlocking.

If you do change the fluid, which isn’t a bad idea at that mileage, make sure you get the limited slip additive from the dealer. I like the Valvoline diff fluid in the bag way easier to deal with than the plastic jugs.

I've got Valvoline 75 95 for front and 75 140 for rear and it supposedly comes with the additive but I also bought a 4ounce bottle of the mopar just in case. It's been sitting in the rear seat for 2 weeks lol

 

[Johndd]

check to see if your tie rod is rubbing on the inside of your wheel(s). After doing a lift, aftermarket steering upgrade and 35" tires, the new tie rod BARELY rubbed on the inner part of the stock wheel. Sounded horrible, and sounded worse than it was. Getting new wheels with appropriate offset solved the problems.

I'll check that tonite if it's not pouring

 

[Johndd]

Just checking back. To add more details to this, I thought it was whining when stopped. It wasn't. This only happens when the wheel is turned in either direction and I'm accelerating. I only notice this at low speeds. I verified by going around a turn, had my foot on the pedal and it started whining. Took my foot off the pedal and the whining stops. This kinda rules out a ball joint for me cause I would think movement in general would be enough. Power steering pump maybe? But if that was the case I don't see how acceleration would change that

 

[Stan H]

Just checking back. To add more details to this, I thought it was whining when stopped. It wasn't. This only happens when the wheel is turned in either direction and I'm accelerating. I only notice this at low speeds. I verified by going around a turn, had my foot on the pedal and it started whining. Took my foot off the pedal and the whining stops. This kinda rules out a ball joint for me cause I would think movement in general would be enough. Power steering pump maybe? But if that was the case I don't see how acceleration would change that

On my pump at pure warmed up idle of 650 and I turn the wheel the pump isnt as string just a little throttle and it will turn easier. The idle is low enough that the pump needs more amps so touching the throttle will help .
Now my pump dont whine but its not to say yours doesn't. And if it does it sitting still then it almost has to be the PS pump. Thats my theory anyway.

 

[Johndd]

On my pump at pure warmed up idle of 650 and I turn the wheel the pump isnt as string just a little throttle and it will turn easier. The idle is low enough that the pump needs more amps so touching the throttle will help .
Now my pump dont whine but its not to say yours doesn't. And if it does it sitting still then it almost has to be the PS pump. Thats my theory anyway.

Would that also explain the chatter sometimes? And do you think this would rule out the rear diff?

 

[Stan H]

Would that also explain the chatter sometimes? And do you think this would rule out the rear diff?

Never rule out anything % But that rear differential .
1. Di ypu have a limited slip rear end ?
2. Has fluid ever been changed ?
3. If nit it needs changed and if it is limited slip use the correct fluid and slip additive if it dictates as such.
4. If fluid etc.. is correct and then noise goes away it was old fluid.
5. If it stays the best way to tell is maybe strap a go-pro or something under it and then drive to see if it can be recorded . Do that in the front and the back
6. Take to the dealer if your in warranty see if they can give you an address mentioned.

 

[Johndd]

Never rule out anything % But that rear differential .
1. Di ypu have a limited slip rear end ?
2. Has fluid ever been changed ?
3. If nit it needs changed and if it is limited slip use the correct fluid and slip additive if it dictates as such.
4. If fluid etc.. is correct and then noise goes away it was old fluid.
5. If it stays the best way to tell is maybe strap a go-pro or something under it and then drive to see if it can be recorded . Do that in the front and the back
6. Take to the dealer if your in warranty see if they can give you an address mentioned.

It's limited slip track loc. I suspect fluid has not been changed. I had already bought fluid. The Valvoline with additive in it and bought some extra additive from Mopar. Specs say 75 85 for front and back with the back needing the additive. After reading in here I see where most do 75 140 in the rear.

Do you still need additive for the rear after adding the Valvoline?

 

[Stan H]

It's limited slip track loc. I suspect fluid has not been changed. I had already bought fluid. The Valvoline with additive in it and bought some extra additive from Mopar. Specs say 75 85 for front and back with the back needing the additive. After reading in here I see where most do 75 140 in the rear.

Do you still need additive for the rear after adding the Valvoline?

That particular question you will have to ask someone else cause mine is full spider so I dont know that answer off top my head.
I suggest getting the rear end fluid change very soon. It is rather easy if your is an earlier model then there is a plug in center of the bottom of the differential if newer than early 21' then just start with the lower bolts have a pan ready about 1 ½ quarts of fluid or there about in there. . Let drain take rest of em loose *seal is reusable.* torque is 15ft ibs. +a 20° extra turn.

 

[Johndd]

That particular question you will have to ask someone else cause mine is full spider so I dont know that answer off top my head.
I suggest getting the rear end fluid change very soon. It is rather easy if your is an earlier model then there is a plug in center of the bottom of the differential if newer than early 21' then just start with the lower bolts have a pan ready about 1 ½ quarts of fluid or there about in there. . Let drain take rest of em loose *seal is reusable.* torque is 15ft ibs. +a 20° extra turn.

Oh yeah was definitely going to do myself. I think I'm afraid of finding metal in there which is why I've been holding off lol

 

[Stan H]

Oh yeah was definitely going to do myself. I think I'm afraid of finding metal in there which is why I've been holding off lol

No probably what you will find is just extremely dirty oil. The chatter in a Differential starts when the additive and fluid breaks down. Which happens to all fluid over time

 

[Johndd]

So took the jeep in to a local shop to get the whining when turning the wheels looked at. They said the sound was localized in the rear wheel axle bearing and suggesting a rear axle shaft replacement for both sides to fix. This shop works on a lot of jeeps around here so I'm trusting the judgement. I was curious, would something like that be covered on the power train warranty? He described to me "because I would have thought for sure something like that noise would be in the steering box" that if the bearing is going bad it would in a sense put it in a bind when turning the wheel.

I was priced at 1200 roughly parts and labor but if I can get it done under powertrain then shit I'd rather save the money

 

[Rusty PW]

Take it to the dealer and see what they say.

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