Whining sound when decelerating

[Maximus Gladius]

I ordered a free transmission testing kit from the company you mentioned. I’ll order a separate oil test kit as well.

There’s a specific and exact way to draw out the fluid from the auto transmission. If you’re not up on it, you can do it wrong and not know how to correct it. Are you aware of the process?

Thank you for ordering the kit. You’d be the second one to do this for the gladiator 850RE auto transmission that I know of.

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[Devil Dog]

I have the radio up too loud to hear any whining noises

 

[jbehrn]

There’s a specific and exact way to draw out the fluid from the auto transmission. If you’re not up on it, you can do it wrong and not know how to correct it. Are you aware of the process?

Thank you for ordering the kit. You’d be the second one to do this for the gladiator 850RE auto transmission that I know of.

I’m not aware of the process; please share if you know it!

 

[Maximus Gladius]

I’m not aware of the process; please share if you know it!

Get to know this well, every step.

 

[Maximus Gladius]

I would assume the kit will come with a suction tool of some type. Don’t use a dirty one or try to clean one if you have one kicking around. Go to your auto parts store and pick up a 200ml size oil suction tool.

You will also need to go to your dealership and buy a bottle of the ZF 8-9 Speed ATF recommended oil to replace the oil you draw out for the kit.

 

[dcmdon]

I have very good reason to believe glycol is used at the US transmission assembly plant and I filed a complaint with FCA. No denial from them. It only takes a teaspoon of it to take out your transmission. I did the analysis because it’s a vital step to know the health of the unit. Engine, diffs, transfer case… do them all. Finding glycol also in my engine as a constant consumption and also seeing in the transmission is alarming.

What would Glycol be used for in assembling a transmission?

 

[Maximus Gladius]

What would Glycol be used for in assembling a transmission?

It does no good. It’s being used as a wash for tooling

 

[Maximus Gladius]

https://www.jeepgladiatorforum.com/...emi-synthetic-oil-good-forever-24k-kms.49827/

Go to the end of page one and read Kevman65 post, then clarification at beginning of page 2

 

[Deleted member 22728]

It's the sound of a payment that's too high, or a mate that wanted to keep the 04' Accent so that the kids could have a soccer scholarship. I don't know, ITS A JEEP...they make strange noises, like when I turn-over at 0238. It wakes her/him up, we stop snoring, and go back to bed.

Seriously, however, I'm open to more details as to the specific condition.

 

[CrazyCooter]

Sound is consistent across speeds. I haven’t noticed any changes based on downshifting. It is easier to hear when I’m at lower speeds.

If if doesn't change or not much with varying load, I'd say pinion bearing. If it goes away with varying load/coast I'd lean to the Rzeppa joint. I've had lots of Grand Cherokees (AWD) in the shop that sound like the front diff it going to explode and it's the front driveline.

 

[dcmdon]

Get to know this well, every step.

This is a time consuming pain in the butt. I have a really hard time believing the a flat rate parts changer is going to bother doing this right. I guess one other thing to do yourself.

 

[Maximus Gladius]

There’s two things that take the time.
NOTE** DO NOT pull the fill plug at the transmission when engine is off and frame not level!!! And DON’T pull the drain plug if you have one, leave it alone.
This is not like checking out the diffs or transfer case.

1. Jack up all 4 corners and level the frame - front to back, side to side. Get the back tires an inch or so off the ground to spin. (This is for checking oil level, you need to spin the gears R N and D a bit as described in the video) if you simply just want to draw out 2-3 ounces and not worry about oil level then have the back end just a bit higher than the front, get transmission up to temperature 86-122F (30-50c) but do it sooner @86F then waiting till 122F window and draw out from the fill plug what you need and put back with fresh oil and CLEAN pump what you take out.

(My garage floor has a 3” tilt north south toward the exit and a 1” tilt east west. Takes me 30 min to get it level with floor Jack and stands.)

Clean any dirt off the fill hole area.

2. Turn the vehicle on, TURN OFF TRACTION CONTROL. Turn on your app screen to show all your temperature gauges and watch the transmission temp. You can pull the fill plug at any time before temp window to see if oil comes out or not. If truck is level and cold, you should see no oil come out. If it does, it’s too full and let it drain out. DON’t collect your sample yet cold. No need to put any fresh oil in now either because you want to draw out whats in there FIRST before adding anything new in. (It would change the analysis if you dump in fresh oil first.)

So watch the temps…you might wait another 30 min to get it up to 86F. When it gets there, pull the FILL plug, oil might dribble out at this point, maybe it won’t. If it dribbles out here (86F) stick in your suction tube and pull out your 2-3 ounce sample. If it DOESN’T dribble here, wait till it does. Again, if oil is coming out at 86F there is no need to put any back in, it’s too full. That oil has so much more expansion to go, your good. So because of the expansion that’s coming, DON’T wait for the temps to get anywhere near 122F to do this. If you’re waiting for temps to reach mid way in the temp window to see oil dribble out, then after you pull sample, put oil back in and install plug.

** Start in the morning with truck cold. Gives you more time.

Now as far as what the guy is taking about at the end of the video concerning oil levels and the cooler and getting the temps hotter for the thermal bypass valve to flow…ignore it, your not doing a flush and working with the cooler oil. You’re just getting out 2-3 ounces and putting fresh stuff back in.

THATS IT. Super simple.

If you see glycol in your analysis, your transmission is done. You can’t save it by doing a flush and it won’t be long before it dies. Just let it go and have it replaced.

 

[jbehrn]

There’s two things that take the time.
NOTE** DO NOT pull the fill plug at the transmission when engine is off and frame not level!!! And DON’T pull the drain plug if you have one, leave it alone.
This is not like checking out the diffs or transfer case.

1. Jack up all 4 corners and level the frame - front to back, side to side. Get the back tires an inch or so off the ground to spin. (This is for checking oil level, you need to spin the gears R N and D a bit as described in the video) if you simply just want to draw out 2-3 ounces and not worry about oil level then have the back end just a bit higher than the front, get transmission up to temperature 86-122F (30-50c) but do it sooner @86F then waiting till 122F window and draw out from the fill plug what you need and put back with fresh oil and CLEAN pump what you take out.

(My garage floor has a 3” tilt north south toward the exit and a 1” tilt east west. Takes me 30 min to get it level with floor Jack and stands.)

Clean any dirt off the fill hole area.

2. Turn the vehicle on, TURN OFF TRACTION CONTROL. Turn on your app screen to show all your temperature gauges and watch the transmission temp. You can pull the fill plug at any time before temp window to see if oil comes out or not. If truck is level and cold, you should see no oil come out. If it does, it’s too full and let it drain out. DON’t collect your sample yet cold. No need to put any fresh oil in now either because you want to draw out whats in there FIRST before adding anything new in. (It would change the analysis if you dump in fresh oil first.)

So watch the temps…you might wait another 30 min to get it up to 86F. When it gets there, pull the FILL plug, oil might dribble out at this point, maybe it won’t. If it dribbles out here (86F) stick in your suction tube and pull out your 2-3 ounce sample. If it DOESN’T dribble here, wait till it does. Again, if oil is coming out at 86F there is no need to put any back in, it’s too full. That oil has so much more expansion to go, your good. So because of the expansion that’s coming, DON’T wait for the temps to get anywhere near 122F to do this. If you’re waiting for temps to reach mid way in the temp window to see oil dribble out, then after you pull sample, put oil back in and install plug.

** Start in the morning with truck cold. Gives you more time.

Now as far as what the guy is taking about at the end of the video concerning oil levels and the cooler and getting the temps hotter for the thermal bypass valve to flow…ignore it, your not doing a flush and working with the cooler oil. You’re just getting out 2-3 ounces and putting fresh stuff back in.

THATS IT. Super simple.

If you see glycol in your analysis, your transmission is done. You can’t save it by doing a flush and it won’t be long before it dies. Just let it go and have it replaced.

Thanks for the walkthroug! I’ll try this once I get my sample kit in.

 

[Rocksalt]

I used to hear a distinct whining when I decelerated. Then I realized It was me as my fun jeep drive was ending in my driveway.

 

[Alan_Hepburn]

I usually get a whining sound from the passenger seat if I accelerate to quickly...

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