Wider Wheels = Worse Handling?

[danielspivey]

Daniel, to your point it is more the effective width I was referring to. While you can't change the physical width of the tread, you can pinch the tread with a too narrow wheel so you don't effectively use all of it and you ride mostly on the middle.

I guess that’s pretty logical. I wonder if anyone here running 35s with stock 7.5 rims has had tread wear issues, in this case the center of the tire?

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[MOS63B20]

 

[MOS63B20]

Hello, YOUR OPINION MATTERS..:

I have a new Rubicon Gladiator.. I did want to start a new Thread about which oversize tire you would pick and why if it was your choice of the two different size tires that I have posted the pictures of... I am still learning to use this Forum, I am sure I will be schooled soon...lol

I do have the OEM 2" Mopar lift kit. I am to understand that a stock suspension can handle 35" tires without modification.. with the experience or not of the JL, JK, JT users what does you experience will you be willing to share?

 

[Renegade]

I guess that’s pretty logical. I wonder if anyone here running 35s with stock 7.5 rims has had tread wear issues, in this case the center of the tire?

People run 12.50 tires on stock wheels all the time, with minimal (if any) issues. Yes, it will wear the center of the tread more than the edges. The horror stories of tires unseating the bead are mostly told by people who profit from selling wheels. Wide tires on (reasonably) narrow wheels used to be referred to as poor man’s beadlocks...

 

[danielspivey]

People run 12.50 tires on stock wheels all the time, with minimal (if any) issues. Yes, it will wear the center of the tread more than the edges. The horror stories of tires unseating the bead are mostly told by people who profit from selling wheels. Wide tires on (reasonably) narrow wheels used to be referred to as poor man’s beadlocks...

Could this be counteracted by deflating the tires and doing a Caulk test?

 

[Rainman519]

Mos63B20 - If you have a Rubicon, you can run 35’s with no suspension modification.

 

[Renegade]

Could this be counteracted by deflating the tires and doing a Caulk test?

Yes, but lowering your air pressure also results in lower fuel mileage. It’s a trade off. I prefer to lower it in favor of a more comfortable ride. I’m ok with less than optimum fuel mileage and/or tire wear.

 

[Troutt]

Well, here is my experience. I bought a sport S with max tow back in November. I went straight from the dealer to Discount Tire and bought a set of BFG ATs in 285/70-17 (approx 33") and mounted them on the factory wheels which are 17x7.5 with +45 mm offset. They ran fine, zero problems. This is the same tire that comes standard on the Rubicon but different wheels. I didn't like the way it looked so I bought a set of 315/70-17 (35"x12.5") and mounted them on a set of 17x9 wheels with 0 offset. No suspension mods. They drive great. The only thing I had to do to get them to fit was remove the aero panels / air damns that connect between the front bumper and the front fender. The tires set about an inch or so outside the fenders. The only problem I've had is that when you measure the top of the tire to the ground they are right at 34" high (supposed to be 35") and I bought a Rough Country programmer to re-program the tire size. I had to program 32.75" to get the speedometer to match the GPS apps on my phone. Something is not right somewhere but I haven't figured that out yet.

 

[danielspivey]

Well, here is my experience. I bought a sport S with max tow back in November. I went straight from the dealer to Discount Tire and bought a set of BFG ATs in 285/70-17 (approx 33") and mounted them on the factory wheels which are 17x7.5 with +45 mm offset. They ran fine, zero problems. This is the same tire that comes standard on the Rubicon but different wheels. I didn't like the way it looked so I bought a set of 315/70-17 (35"x12.5") and mounted them on a set of 17x9 wheels with 0 offset. No suspension mods. They drive great. The only thing I had to do to get them to fit was remove the aero panels / air damns that connect between the front bumper and the front fender. The tires set about an inch or so outside the fenders. The only problem I've had is that when you measure the top of the tire to the ground they are right at 34" high (supposed to be 35") and I bought a Rough Country programmer to re-program the tire size. I had to program 32.75" to get the speedometer to match the GPS apps on my phone. Something is not right somewhere but I haven't figured that out yet.

Do you have any pictures? I’d like to see the way your 35s look with your max tow

 

[Troutt]

Sport S max tow with 315/70-17 BFG ATs on 17x9 wheels with 0 offset.

 

[Deleted member 24603]

Could this be counteracted by deflating the tires and doing a Caulk test?

I would use Chalk, Caulk could get kinda messy !

 

[MarineHawk]

The only problem I've had is that when you measure the top of the tire to the ground they are right at 34" high (supposed to be 35") and I bought a Rough Country programmer to re-program the tire size. I had to program 32.75" to get the speedometer to match the GPS apps on my phone. Something is not right somewhere but I haven't figured that out yet.

Dude, the bottom of the tire is compressed under a load when mounted. Did you measure your 5th matching spare (if you have one) or your mounted tires before they were mounted? The spec dimension of the tire is when it is not mounted. When you put 1/4 of a 5,000-lb vehicle on it, the bottom part of the tire will compress--making the overall diameter shorter. Alternatively, measure the horizontal diameter of the mounted . It should be close to the spec.

 

[danielspivey]

Dude, the bottom of the tire is compressed under a load when mounted. Did you measure your 5th matching spare (if you have one) or your mounted tires before they were mounted? The spec dimension of the tire is when it is not mounted. When you put 1/4 of a 5,000-lb vehicle on it, the bottom part of the tire will compress--making the overall diameter shorter. Alternatively, measure the horizontal diameter of the mounted . It should be close to the spec.

this is interesting ... you would think they would have this figured out so the tire size actually reflects what you enter and wouldnt have to do a manual measurement.

 

[MarineHawk]

this is interesting ... you would think they would have this figured out so the tire size actually reflects what you enter and wouldnt have to do a manual measurement.

Unfortunately, it’s not that interesting.

Tire manufacturers give the diameter of the tire unmounted as a spec.

If not, would you choose the diameter spec to be:
1. a 2,000-lb Suzuki inflated to 65-psi; or
2. a 9,000-lb F-350 inflated to 33-psi?

They measure the tire before any aberrational load gets on it. Is there any other way that makes sense?

 

[danielspivey]

Unfortunately, it’s not that interesting.

Tire manufacturers give the diameter of the tire unmounted as a spec.

If not, would you choose the diameter spec to be:
1. a 2,000-lb Suzuki inflated to 65-psi; or
2. a 9,000-lb F-350 inflated to 33-psi?

They measure the tire before any aberrational load gets on it. Is there any other way that makes sense?

Actually it is interesting. If you would have read his post: he has 35s, Under load they actually measure 34”, but he had to enter 32.75” to get the Speedo right. Dude, does that make sense?

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