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WTF is going on with my new Jeep??

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So I just got the call. Apparently the wiring harness or some wiring that’s behind cylinder number one was rubbing against that whole side of the engine and it created a short to ground and everything was fixed up today. One of the techs is going to drive it home Who lives about a half an hour away just to put some miles on it and be sure. Does anybody have an opinion on this? He didn’t give me any details but I definitely want to know.
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I'll fix that for ya -



I wish people would stop assuming that all misfires are caused by the same thing. Even a majority aren't necessarily related.
The thing about coil packs and other pieces - sure, a simple fix if that's it, and it's fine for a novice to "try" but for a pro to just swap out parts without actually applying real diagnostics and troubleshooting? Might as well do what the classic car people do - car won't start is the question. The answer is "bad starter". So they put on a starter. Car still won't start. Next answer is "bad battery" so they buy and put in a battery, next is the alternator, and finally someone asks the right question - gee, it's out of gas. Yeah, I see that stuff out there. They didn't ever ask "does it crank but not fire or start?".
And the unwitting person asking just starts throwing money and parts at it.



The tech swapped what out? Coil pack? Spark plug? Injector?


-----------------------------
Ya know - a scope could go a long long ways to diagnostics, also - these will report if it's an IGNITION misfire.............
In the case below - it was a weird thing that stopped misfiring by the time it got to the dealership but I had enough recorded that they actually figured it out - spark plugs. One visit, fixed.

2021/01/04 11:56:35.970: Faults found: P0303
Error code: P0303
Cylinder 3 ignition failures
Test not complete
Error intermittent
Error warning lamp not requested
CARB Freeze Frame:
___________________
Fault code: P0303
PCM Mileage since MIL On: 0.00 miles
PCM Odometer: 950.27 miles
Open Loop - Bank 1: No
Closed Loop - Bank 1: Yes
Open Loop due to Driving Conditions - Bank 1: No
Open Loop with DTC - Bank 1: No
Closed Loop with DTC - Bank 1: No
Open Loop - Bank 2: No
Closed Loop - Bank 2: No
Open Loop due to Driving Conditions - Bank 2: No
Open Loop with DTC - Bank 2: No
Closed Loop with DTC - Bank 2: No
Engine load: 30.20 %
Freeze Frame Engine Coolant Temp: 66.00 Deg.C
Intake Air Temperature: 215.00 Deg.C
Ambient Air Temperature: 12.00 Deg.C
Short Term Fuel Trim - Bank 1: 12.49 %
Long Term Fuel Trim - Bank 1: -3.13 %
Short Term Fuel Trim - Bank 2: 9.37 %
Long Term Fuel Trim - Bank 2: -7.04 %
MAP Voltage: 1.96 V
MAP: 46 kPa
Atmospheric pressure: 97 kPa
Engine RPM: 875.00 rpm
Vehicle speed: 0 MPH
Throttle Position Sensor 1 Percent: 12.94 %
Battery voltage: 14.58 V
Fuel level: 95.69 %
Purge Solenoid Current: 0.00 mA
Purge Duty Cycle: 0.00 %
Idle Air Control (IAC) Current: 0.00 mA
Idle Air Control (IAC) Duty Cycle: 0.00 %
EGR Flow: 0.00 g/s
Current Adaptive Cell ID: 24
Spark advance: -2.00 Deg
AC Clutch: Disengaged
EGR Gassed Flowing: No
Power Steering High Pressure: No
AC Switch: Off
PRNDL in Gear: No
Brake switch: Pressed

Here's from my 2022 JT - It was a CCDIFF issue, they forced a cam/crank difference relearn and fixed it for good.

1694836437448.png
..........LOL
 

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So I just got the call. Apparently the wiring harness or some wiring that’s behind cylinder number one was rubbing against that whole side of the engine and it created a short to ground and everything was fixed up today. One of the techs is going to drive it home Who lives about a half an hour away just to put some miles on it and be sure. Does anybody have an opinion on this? He didn’t give me any details but I definitely want to know.
I am just seeing this resolution, because some hapless, and now banned, newb tried commenting on it.
Glad you got it sorted, and I assume no more issues since?
I think I get a bottle of ripple for guessing shorted / grounded wiring.
 
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Ever since they fixed the harness, I’ve had no engine light for misfiring, but I did have the jeep lose power while driving on the Thruway at 70 mph. All of the interior lights shut off, and the engine was still running, but I had no power brakes or power steering. Very scary. I waited a few minutes and after I started it up it was running perfectly normal. Engine light was on and it threw about 20 codes for high voltage on almost every single system. It went away after a couple days and then it happened again in a while. I was in the Walmart parking lot but this time it gave me a warning on the dash telling me to Pull over and shut the vehicle off. It’s shut off again because it didn’t give me any time whatsoever to shut it off. Same thing. It went away on its own. This was about around Christmas time. I flat out told the dealership and the management that I want the vehicle replaced. It’s a love-hate relationship with this thing. I really do love this car. I don’t want another kind of vehicle. With that said, the dealership just wants to keep fixing it, but it what point am I supposed to be OK with this? I don’t with a lot of issues with my ram 1500 how many prior to this. That’s why I purchased the Gladiator. I thought I had problems with the Ram but I was wrong. This vehicle has been way worse. I am looking at my speedometer right now and above it, it reads 7.7 miles per gallon. That’s what I get on average. I’ve never seen anything above 8 miles per gallon. It goes through all the gear smoothly and ride is nice, but it sounds like shit at idle. I know that they all have a slight ticking to them, but this one sounds a little rougher on the edges. I am using talk to text while driving so I apologize for such a long message.
 

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You will probably have to contact a lawyer that knows the Lemon Laws for your state. Most states have a process to follow for vehicle replacement if they are unable to fix a problem within a certain period of time or a certain amount of repair visits. A good dealer should recognize one that can't be repaired, and help you through the process with Jeep. If not, that is where you turn it over to the Lemon Law lawyer.
 

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That’s what worries me right now. I’ve already met the criteria for lemon law. It’s been in the repair shop 4x six months. They want me to bring it in so they can go over the entire vehicle. For some people that might be OK but for me, I still have uneasy feelings, and I will continue to worry about the next problem. Nobody wants to buy a car like this only so it can go into the repair shop so many times. This thing was misfiring so bad and even the day I took delivery it had every check engine light on the dash. I should’ve walked away at that very moment.
 

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Gotta draw a line in the sand and make a demand for them to respond to. They're of course going to drag you around as long as you're willing. You have to be the one to change that conversation. And personally I wouldn't communicate outside of writing. Direct emails to the GM with others CC'd.

If you don't want to sit down with a lawyer yet, may want to do more research on what you can do to start stacking the cards against them. There may be a particular demand you need to make that has to be worded correctly. Sometimes things are legislated such that if one party doesn't respond to a specific request in a certain way, or in a certain window of time, courts will treat that as a willful adverse action.

But really, a brief consultation with a lawyer will send you down the right path.

You're definitely justified in being fed up. I don't think I could come back from having a NEW vehicle shut down while driving on the highway. I'm on the cusp of pulling the trigger on a 2024 Mojave but stuff like this (and lack of resolution) gives me cold feet.
 

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Sounds like it got damaged during assembly, or they just left something out (like ground straps!). It's probably something stupid. Problem for dealer techs is they generally don't get a lot of coverage to diagnose the problem. No work order and they're just donating their time.
 

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That’s what worries me right now. I’ve already met the criteria for lemon law. It’s been in the repair shop 4x six months. They want me to bring it in so they can go over the entire vehicle. For some people that might be OK but for me, I still have uneasy feelings, and I will continue to worry about the next problem. Nobody wants to buy a car like this only so it can go into the repair shop so many times. This thing was misfiring so bad and even the day I took delivery it had every check engine light on the dash. I should’ve walked away at that very moment.
You need to consult with a Lemon Law Lawyer and learn what your options are. There may be time limits in the law that will work against you. As long as the dealer is making an attempt to fix it, you have to ride out the process and let them try. If you do not cooperate with their attempts to repair, you cannot use the Lemon Laws to get the vehicle replaced.

Yes, you are correct, you should have never taken delivery of a vehicle that was not fully functional. Hopefully, that does not work against you. Be open and honest with the Lawyer, do not leave out any details, and take all the documentation you have. They need to know everything up front to be able to help you.
 

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the day I took delivery it had every check engine light on the dash. I should’ve walked away at that very moment.
You accepted a vehicle with the CEL on??? That's something you do with a $1000 used car when you're willing to take your chances, not a new or even close to new vehicle.
 

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You accepted a vehicle with the CEL on??? That's something you do with a $1000 used car when you're willing to take your chances, not a new or even close to new vehicle.
What he said - in spades, as my mother might have said...........
 

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That’s what worries me right now. I’ve already met the criteria for lemon law. It’s been in the repair shop 4x six months. They want me to bring it in so they can go over the entire vehicle. For some people that might be OK but for me, I still have uneasy feelings, and I will continue to worry about the next problem. Nobody wants to buy a car like this only so it can go into the repair shop so many times. This thing was misfiring so bad and even the day I took delivery it had every check engine light on the dash. I should’ve walked away at that very moment.
At this point it sounds dangerous. Like the sort of thing that could cause a catastrophic fire, somewhere well away from other combustible materials, people, children, pets, wildlife, and with a very high emergency services response time. Poor cell service too probably.
 

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but I did have the jeep lose power while driving on the Thruway at 70 mph. All of the interior lights shut off, and the engine was still running, but I had no power brakes or power steering. Very scary. I waited a few minutes and after I started it up it was running perfectly normal. Engine light was on and it threw about 20 codes for high voltage on almost every single system. It went away after a couple days and then it happened again in a while. I was in the Walmart parking lot but this time it gave me a warning on the dash telling me to Pull over and shut the vehicle off. It’s shut off again because it didn’t give me any time whatsoever to shut it off. Same thing. It went away on its own.
You can do whatever, but my bet is that there's a simple solution to this............
What you describe is a self-protection mode when voltage goes way out of range - it will shut off things like the EHPS, cooling fan, brake vacuum pump (you had brakes, just no assist) and certain other things to ensure the engine can keep running for a safe distance so you can pull over INSTANTLY - not later, but NOW.
It will do this for out of range voltages.
What causes this situation?
A common cause is a loose battery terminal. This can cause high - or low voltages in the system.
If there's a poor connection at a battery terminal, it's reading across a resistance, a voltage drop is seen, and it assumes low voltage and tries to compensate.
My gut says this could be as simple as needing to check all battery connections - aux battery and main/crank battery. Don't just look! You can't tell by looking. Grab that terminal and pull and push hard, or better yet - remove all connections, clean, and reinstall making sure things go back on tightly.
Also while the hood is open, release the two latches on the fuse panel cover, remove the cover and make sure all fuses are pressed in FIRMLY - push them in hard, all of them, one at a time if necessary.
Since this "went away on its own" - that's further suggesting a transient connection issue - possibly loose battery terminal, fuse, whatever.

If you like the Jeep - if it was me, I'd try a bit more, but if you are done, you are done - go to your own STATE's AG web site and learn the lemon laws for YOUR state. (NEW YORK)
I don't give up easily and like to push to make people make things right.......... but it's not me, it's YOU this time around.
 
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You accepted a vehicle with the CEL on??? That's something you do with a $1000 used car when you're willing to take your chances, not a new or even close to new vehicle.
They immediately said that it was the drivers fault for filling the vehicle up while it was running and they cleared the codes and they’re well aware that they made the error and not me. What do you expect? Day of delivery, and after going three long months of starting 2020 ram 1500 by jumpstart because water was pissing in the back window onto the RF module. Stellantis, or the dealer was willing to fix the rear window. If I can go back in time, I would’ve kept that vehicle. But at that exact moment, I was so relieved to get into a new vehicle. I understand what you’re saying, but, hopefully you can see it from my point of view.
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