ZYTRA Gladiator 392 Swap Build

[zy1337]

Thanks man

Correct, that's what I am currently trying to address. The simplest thing I have come up with so far would be to make the bracket that bolt down the tent to the rails on top of the cab so slide within the rails themselves.

From my observations (since I found out about it) looking at other rigs si the angular motion is minimal but the front to back motion is there (1/2 to 3/4 at most). So by keeping the keep the RTT solid on the RSI and allowing the tent so slide forward and back on rails mounted to the cab I should be ok.

It's a complete oversight on my part when I was designing the whole thing. I was a bit obsessed with getting everything as low profile as possible. And also my first tent was only mounted on the RSI and I had 18-20" of overhang up front which I really didn't like.

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[Klicht87]

DANG! That thing is monster.

 

[antwon412]

Thanks man

Correct, that's what I am currently trying to address. The simplest thing I have come up with so far would be to make the bracket that bolt down the tent to the rails on top of the cab so slide within the rails themselves.

From my observations (since I found out about it) looking at other rigs si the angular motion is minimal but the front to back motion is there (1/2 to 3/4 at most). So by keeping the keep the RTT solid on the RSI and allowing the tent so slide forward and back on rails mounted to the cab I should be ok.

It's a complete oversight on my part when I was designing the whole thing. I was a bit obsessed with getting everything as low profile as possible. And also my first tent was only mounted on the RSI and I had 18-20" of overhang up front which I really didn't like.

I don’t know if simply allowing it to slide front and back would work. It’s a twisting motion when the bed flexes differently than the cab usually. So you are going to have both side to side, front to back and up and down motions I would think.

 

[zy1337]

I don’t know if simply allowing it to slide front and back would work. It’s a twisting motion when the bed flexes differently than the cab usually. So you are going to have both side to side, front to back and up and down motions I would think.

You're right - I am pretty sure this setup is significantly limiting the relative flex between cab and bed/chassis. That being said I am super clear on the amount of flex that is just coming from the body mounts.

My reasoning with perhaps attempting at allowing some forward/back sliding is that 1. I probably more of that forward/backward flex while driving normally then left/right, but more importantly 2. I don't know how to allow for some left/right and up/down.


Other than for the squeaking noise I haven't had any problems. What's actually funny is that I've actually found out while watching some youtube channel with a JT filmed third person view with a drone while hammering down some washboard roads.. there I realized the how distance between the top/rear of the cab and this guy's camper shell was rapidly changing, really illustrating how the rubber of the cab mounts was getting worked out.

 

[Florida Mojave]

Absolutely incredible...love the name of the Beast!
Thanks for sharing!

 

[zy1337]

Also made some custom brackets for the awning. Similarly to RTT mounting I didn't like how all standard mounting solutions make everything stand far and high.

And with the RTT sitting so low, the standard roofnest ladder brackets were useless (the ladder would not reach at all).

 

[zy1337]

So I just modified the design of the brackets that tie the RTT to the 3060's I have on top of the RSI.
The new brackets are very similar but they add a 10 mm gap between the RTT and the RSI/Truck.

Up front I will remove the 3030 rails and let the RTT float as it should.

To compensate for the significant length overhanging I've designed a bracket will bolt into the top corners (left and right) of the RSI and in the rails of the RTT.

If that works, that would be great as 10mm isn't too much compromise. And the squeaking noises will likely be gone.

Only challenge is getting the angles of the RSI right.

 

[zy1337]

If anyone is interested I will be selling the Rebel Recon Stage II kit in a few kits.
I have to make significant changes to the truck due to the overall weight and instead of replacing things left and right the suspension is going to be fully replaced. PM if interested.

https://www.jeepgladiatorforum.com/...overland-stage-2-complete-coilover-kit.72115/

 

[Free2roam]

Who makes that rear bumper?

 

[zy1337]

Expedition One
https://www.expeditiononestore.com/

 

[zy1337]

The new bracket I made to take of the overhang is good a fit.
Just need to raise it all up by 10mm and it should be good.

 

[zy1337]

some trimming is needed but this should work.
RTT has been raised 10 mm - new riser brackets are visible on the left side

 

[zy1337]

The install is pretty much complete. Will need to add another layer of paint next week.
And shorten the front 3030 rails which are no longer needed (they don't touch the RTT anymore) - right now they're sitting 10mm away from the RTT which means they will likely contact when the cabin is flexing relative to the chassis/bed/camper.

As is, as long as that relative flexing is not too touch, the squeaking should basically be gone.

 

[zy1337]

Got a chance to upload the couple of videos on the rear shock and front coilover to illustrate the handling (and bottoming out) issues I have been struggling with.

 

[Overland_Gator]

The truck was shipped to AMW to swap to a 392. Since my JT was a MT sport, the Tcase was replaced for a Rubicon one and while there was some options to keep the MT I eventually decided to switch to the 8-speed AT.

Other than for extra lead time on some of the parts (pedals and whatnot) it was pretty smooth (still took close to 12 weeks which was a bummer). They advised to get the hydrosteer which I got. There was an issue with my teraflex tie rod and drag link I had and had to switch to Yeti's.

Zy, great project and transformation. I'm very interested in the AMW 392 swap and how you think it handles the 40's. I'm contemplating it vs the 426 swap. I'm currently running 37's but on the stock driveline and diff's. I believe the 392 swap will work with the factory diffs, also a consideration as I don't intend to go to heavier Dana's in the near future. Thanks for sharing.

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