Help. What sales codes are needed for LEDs

[trader979]

Dealer is swapping out my halogen headlights, drls and fogs. Headlights intermidently working. Drls work but say bulb out in cluster. What sales codes are needed so everything works properly? Just want to double check the dealer.

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[trader979]

Would the wrong and/or lack of a sales code cause one of the headlights to turn off? My understanding is the LED sales code will prevent flickering. I guess the first thing I’ll see if they tried was swapping sides.

 

[trader979]

Any suggestions would help?

 

[Sailscall]

What is a sales code? Do you mean part number? Are you talking OEM parts?

 

[jeep1]

I believe its "AD6"

What he's looking for is the sales code that will tell the computer he has LEDs not Halogen and adjust the current and feedback accordingly. Most of us just use a Tazer or JSCAN etc.. to ast the lights based on which ones we've replaced.

 

[trader979]

I believe its "AD6"

What he's looking for is the sales code that will tell the computer he has LEDs not Halogen and adjust the current and feedback accordingly. Most of us just use a Tazer or JSCAN etc.. to ast the lights based on which ones we've replaced.

Correct. The dealer installed my mopar led headlights and fender lights. They said they added the sales codes to read the leds but the headlights are shutting off on their own (halos staying on) and the fender lights are reading bulb out.

 

[trader979]

Correct. The dealer installed my mopar led headlights and fender lights. They said they added the sales codes to read the leds but the headlights are shutting off on their own (halos staying on) and the fender lights are reading bulb out.

I should have just bought a tazer/jscan.

 

[jeep1]

I should have just bought a tazer/jscan.

you still can ... and that would be my suggestion regardless. Lots of other uses for either of them

 

[trader979]

So the dealer couldn’t get my mopar led headlights to work properly. They both keep shutting off after a few seconds. Also couldn’t get the bulb out message off the screen for the upgraded fender lights. All this is telling me he didn’t flash the BCM correctly with the right codes. (Dealer is now telling me that because my Bcm was for halogens that I can’t upgrade which I know isn’t true because my tail lights were already upgraded by another dealer) Before I go the jscan or tazer route, I’m trying to confirm if the led headlights are potentially bad. A couple of questions…

What could the dealer added to the BCM that would make the headlights both shut off after a few seconds?

If I just hook them up without the flash/sales code they should work. The issue is that they might flicker correct?
Thanks

 

[sharpsicle]

What could the dealer added to the BCM that would make the headlights both shut off after a few seconds?

If I just hook them up without the flash/sales code they should work. The issue is that they might flicker correct?
Thanks

Well, not necessarily. Some systems do have a safety built in where if the BCM determines there's a problem, it'll stop sending power to them to avoid a potential short. This is especially true of modern systems that monitor bulbs to detect when they go out. If it thinks they're out, it might be cutting the power to them intentionally. Things controlled by the BCM are much more sensitive than the old school relay-driven systems where you could just plug it in and go. The BCMs take more conservatives approaches to protect the internal circuitry.

The only way to know if it's working right or not is to properly get the truck configured for LEDs and go from there. If it's still set up for halogens, and the new LED stuff doesn't work, it could be the configuration causing the issue. The fact that they turn on, then off, in a repeatable and predictable manner tells me it might not be the lights themselves. See if the dealer can bench test them to confirm. The dealer may not have done or added anything to cause what you're experiencing.

 

[skindata]

I believe its "AD6"

What he's looking for is the sales code that will tell the computer he has LEDs not Halogen and adjust the current and feedback accordingly. Most of us just use a Tazer or JSCAN etc.. to ast the lights based on which ones we've replaced.

Looking at my POC from about 5 months ago you’re right that it is AD6 - LED Lighting Group.

 

[trader979]

Well, not necessarily. Some systems do have a safety built in where if the BCM determines there's a problem, it'll stop sending power to them to avoid a potential short. This is especially true of modern systems that monitor bulbs to detect when they go out. If it thinks they're out, it might be cutting the power to them intentionally. Things controlled by the BCM are much more sensitive than the old school relay-driven systems where you could just plug it in and go. The BCMs take more conservatives approaches to protect the internal circuitry.

The only way to know if it's working right or not is to properly get the truck configured for LEDs and go from there. If it's still set up for halogens, and the new LED stuff doesn't work, it could be the configuration causing the issue. The fact that they turn on, then off, in a repeatable and predictable manner tells me it might not be the lights themselves. See if the dealer can bench test them to confirm. The dealer may not have done or added anything to cause what you're experiencing.

I knew if wasn’t a “simple” plug and play but I didn’t think it would stump the dealer. If I go the jscan route, what settings do I use? Seems to be a number of them.

 

[sharpsicle]

I knew if wasn’t a “simple” plug and play but I didn’t think it would stump the dealer. If I go the jscan route, what settings do I use? Seems to be a number of them.

You're paying the dealer to install them, right? It's on them to finish the job, and this should be handled by them. Otherwise I'd be asking for some money back.

 

[Sailscall]

Tell the dealer to take them out and refund your $. Go buy some Oracle Oculus Bi-LEDs or the Rough Country LEDs that are CANBUS compatible for $500 and be done. No need for a Tazer or J Scan. I’ve seen Rough Country’s on eBay that are scratch and dent for $160.

Your dealer is a putz if they can’t program your OEM LEDs. I’m surprised you were able to get the OEM LEDs, I thought they were back ordered for many months.

 

[trader979]

They are take offs.

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