Fuseable Link

[RangerG]

Your 3/36K warranty should cover it unless they are claim some aftermarket accessory caused it to blow.

Also, it is pretty easy to change it yourself.

https://store.mopar.com/oem-parts/mopar-z-case-fuse-array-68368854aa

Yep that’s is it

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[ShadowsPapa]

Ok, finally got a good response from a service rep who knows he’s job. This Fuseable link is the main fuse of the battery. It’s a bar with holes in it that attaches to the battery and other components. It’s not covered. After they replaced a sensor the truck died during the test drive,Nothing work. (Off-road Wherehouse had installed on board air a few weeks ago.) the positive terminals was lose, causing a short, blew the fuse. They dealership did not disconnect the battery. ( the on board air was connected at the positive terminal, looks like off-road Wherehouse did not tighten that terminal. ) will going over there today to talk to them about this.

Loose terminals is not a short.
Do you mean they wired the compressor to the positive battery terminal and left that loose?
Which fuse in that array blew? Something is not making sense.
Why would anyone take the positive cable off the battery.....

 

[RangerG]

I don’t know. It does not make sense to me ether . Jeep dealership stated lose battery (positive ) caused fuse to blow.

 

[In3briatedPanda]

Loose terminals is not a short.
Do you mean they wired the compressor to the positive battery terminal and left that loose?
Which fuse in that array blew? Something is not making sense.
Why would anyone take the positive cable off the battery.....

anytime im working on electrical, i take both off. Im just that way, no other reason than I want to be sure i have zero power while im working.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

anytime im working on electrical, i take both off. Im just that way, no other reason than I want to be sure i have zero power while im working.

Negative off - you have 0 power.
But do whatever makes you feel safer. Safe is safe. If it's your habit, best to not change it because THAT's what gets some into trouble. Doing something differently.

I've never removed the positive unless it's to remove or replace the battery. Once that negative post is bare, nothing can happen as long as you do like I've done - wrap the end of the negative cable with a rag and tuck it away from the post.

But I've never seen a shop remove both and when running electric for a compressor I can't figure out why they'd take that off. If they ran the compressor wire directly to the positive battery post, you'd think they'd have it back on snugly when they put their wire on. That way the cable and end they are attaching to won't turn or move.

I'd still love to know WHICH fuse on that fuse array blew.

Either way - fuses, tires, wiper blades, any wear or consumable item isn't a warranty thing.

If the main positive cable end was loose on the battery + post, I'm surprised it started/cranked.
But ignoring that part of it - alternators can behave badly - and be badly damaged if run with no load from a battery on them.
Some idiots to this day still test older vehicle charging systems - and worse yet, advise OTHER people to test them, by taking off the negative battery terminal and see if it keeps running. I don't know what kind of fool does that, but it's business for me when I get the alternators in my shop with the tops blown off diodes or other fun damage.
So if that cable clamp was truly loose on the positive battery post, it's a good thing that there was still the aux battery in the mix to act as a load on the alternator.

(Did I say I still wanted to know which fuse on that whole array blew? - there's radiator fan (60/100 amp), aux battery charging at N3 can't recall if that's a 125 or 150 amp, and main alternator charging - a 300 amp fuse, among others. That's some hefty fuses in there)

 

[RangerG]

Negative off - you have 0 power.
But do whatever makes you feel safer. Safe is safe. If it's your habit, best to not change it because THAT's what gets some into trouble. Doing something differently.

I've never removed the positive unless it's to remove or replace the battery. Once that negative post is bare, nothing can happen as long as you do like I've done - wrap the end of the negative cable with a rag and tuck it away from the post.

But I've never seen a shop remove both and when running electric for a compressor I can't figure out why they'd take that off. If they ran the compressor wire directly to the positive battery post, you'd think they'd have it back on snugly when they put their wire on. That way the cable and end they are attaching to won't turn or move.

I'd still love to know WHICH fuse on that fuse array blew.

Either way - fuses, tires, wiper blades, any wear or consumable item isn't a warranty thing.

If the main positive cable end was loose on the battery + post, I'm surprised it started/cranked.
But ignoring that part of it - alternators can behave badly - and be badly damaged if run with no load from a battery on them.
Some idiots to this day still test older vehicle charging systems - and worse yet, advise OTHER people to test them, by taking off the negative battery terminal and see if it keeps running. I don't know what kind of fool does that, but it's business for me when I get the alternators in my shop with the tops blown off diodes or other fun damage.
So if that cable clamp was truly loose on the positive battery post, it's a good thing that there was still the aux battery in the mix to act as a load on the alternator.

(Did I say I still wanted to know which fuse on that whole array blew? - there's radiator fan (60/100 amp), aux battery charging at N3 can't recall if that's a 125 or 150 amp, and main alternator charging - a 300 amp fuse, among others. That's some hefty fuses in there)

I did not do any of the electrical work. Off-road Wherehouse did. Went by there today. 1st words out of his mouth were we cant be responsible for my off-roading. Have not had time in the last 6 months. Then it was Jeep tested the battery. They screwed up. (Note: 6 weeks and 1500 miles since they installed the arb twin compressor) I’m very disappointed in off-road Wherehouse. I’ve spent two much money at that place. It seems like no place will own up to that fact that they messed up. I guess I’m eating the $310 repair bill. At least it didn’t happen on the trail

 

[ShadowsPapa]

I did not do any of the electrical work. Off-road Wherehouse did. Went by there today. 1st words out of his mouth were we cant be responsible for my off-roading. Have not had time in the last 6 months. Then it was Jeep tested the battery. They screwed up. (Note: 6 weeks and 1500 miles since they installed the arb twin compressor) I’m very disappointed in off-road Wherehouse. I’ve spent two much money at that place. It seems like no place will own up to that fact that they messed up. I guess I’m eating the $310 repair bill. At least it didn’t happen on the trail

Off-roading haha - it happened on the road, normal driving, nothing any car wouldn't experience.
Yes, good thing it didn't happen in some remote area - where you'd have trouble getting in contact with anyone let alone getting back out of there.
I guess the positive side of things is that indeed it could have been worse - and at least a fuse went and not some major wiring or worse. The fuse did the job it was designed for.

 

[jebiruph]

I did not do any of the electrical work. Off-road Wherehouse did. Went by there today. 1st words out of his mouth were we cant be responsible for my off-roading. Have not had time in the last 6 months. Then it was Jeep tested the battery. They screwed up. (Note: 6 weeks and 1500 miles since they installed the arb twin compressor) I’m very disappointed in off-road Wherehouse. I’ve spent two much money at that place. It seems like no place will own up to that fact that they messed up. I guess I’m eating the $310 repair bill. At least it didn’t happen on the trail

So it lasts for 6 weeks and 1500 miles after Off-Road Warehouse works on it, but coincidentally fails right after the dealer works on it? It looks to me like during the dealer service they accidently shorted the positive battery cable to ground which blows the N3 fuse. That isolates the aux battery and system electronics from the alternator and the main battery. At that point the system electronics are running off of the aux battery until the aux battery runs down and the system electronics lose power.

If that's the case it's a fairly easy fix and if you want to do it yourself, you can move the cable from the N3 terminal with the blown fuse to the N4 terminal with a good fuse and run like that until you get and install a new high capacity fuse assembly.

 

[punk'n]

So it lasts for 6 weeks and 1500 miles after Off-Road Warehouse works on it, but coincidentally fails right after the dealer works on it? It looks to me like during the dealer service they accidently shorted the positive battery cable to ground which blows the N3 fuse. That isolates the aux battery and system electronics from the alternator and the main battery. At that point the system electronics are running off of the aux battery until the aux battery runs down and the system electronics lose power.

If that's the case it's a fairly easy fix and if you want to do it yourself, you can move the cable from the N3 terminal with the blown fuse to the N4 terminal with a good fuse and run like that until you get and install a new high capacity fuse assembly.

100%.

My 2020 had a bad Aux battery show up 30 miles off dealer lot when new. Start stop didn't work.

Dealer went to install new battery and they popped the fuse array, which they admitted to. (Tech did not state which part of it went.) He installed a new Aux battery and ran to another terminal to get me out the door as the fuse array was on back order. At that point, everything worked as normal.

A few weeks later, the fuse array came in and I went back to have it installed and wires hooked up as designed. I didn't pay a dime.

 

[In3briatedPanda]

the only time i see fusible links blow like that is when they are jumped off backwards, struck by lightning, or water damage. Never seen a loose terminal cause that, but nothing is cut and dry on vehicles anymore.

I agree with the other poster that they touched power to ground somehow

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