Can you add Adaptive Cruise Control (ACC)

[Jimmy07]

So you are saying $1000-1500 for all of the parts?
The windshield, 3rd party, is not all that cheap. Around here it's only a couple hundred difference. I suppose unless you go really cheap Asian glass. I was quoted two numbers and they weren't that far apart so I opted for the MOPAR glass.
Even if the glass was only 500 you are saying all of the other stuff could be done for $1,000-1500.

Rough guess, maybe. That was without looking up parts. The correct Mopar windshield is $530. That’s the same as what it is for my ram, and I had safelite install theirs for $230.

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[ShadowsPapa]

Rough guess, maybe. That was without looking up parts. The correct Mopar windshield is $530. That’s the same as what it is for my ram, and I had safelite install theirs for $230.

Not in Iowa it's not that cheap. A 3rd party glass is about 600 installed. Just under 900 installed for MOPAR. I don't know where you are shopping but I've never had a glass replaced in anything for any $230! I WISH it was that cheap here! I've had two replaced and nothing was under 600.
I asked and told the guy my deductible and figured it would be cheaper since I was trading, nope - might as well let them do the MOPAR glass since it was more than my part of the cost.

 

[Jimmy07]

That's odd - the calibration was part of my second windshield replacement.
The only thing that took any time was the fact he had to have internet connectivity to log in with his password - it apparently needed to contact Jeep? Once he got my truck up on the road a little ways, he had internet and it took him minutes.
Granted, it was long long out of any such plant mode.
This guy was called in because Safelite couldn't do it in time for my trade so they called a "partner" independent shop. So it wasn't safelite proper, but one of the independents they apparently work with now and then.

That’s because you weren’t having a brand new DASM installed. Yours was already calibrated and out of plant mode.
Also, if you’re paying out of pocket, don’t let them calibrate after windshield replacement, it doesn’t even need to be done for the DASM that Jeep/ram uses. It’s basically just an upcharge for them.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

Plain MOPAR windshield without FCW/ACC is MSRP $625.
Discount price $418
I've not looked into the price of the "fancy" windshield with the provisions for the DASM "defogger" connections.

They didn't calibrate my first one. I let them do the second one because it was taken care of by insurance.
That's the point I've argued here for 2 years - these do NOT need calibrated with a windshield replacement. the thing is mounted to the "frame" and far more rigid than on other vehicles. Heck, you can fold the windshield forward as often as you want and not affect the DASM at all.

 

[Jimmy07]

Not in Iowa it's not that cheap. A 3rd party glass is about 600 installed. Just under 900 installed for MOPAR. I don't know where you are shopping but I've never had a glass replaced in anything for any $230! I WISH it was that cheap here! I've had two replaced and nothing was under 600.
I asked and told the guy my deductible and figured it would be cheaper since I was trading, nope - might as well let them do the MOPAR glass since it was more than my part of the cost.

That’s about right…if you’re paying their price that automatically includes sensor re-installment and calibration.
Mine would have been about $850, but that included installing the DASM and rain sensor, and recalibrating both. First off, I was installing the sensors at a later date, and secondly, there isn’t even such thing as a rain sensor calibration. After I had them remove those charges, we were down to $230.

 

[Mr._Bill]

Just saying it cannot be done may be incorrect, but it is the 'official' answer. The average owner is not going to go for the DIY install install on something like this. On top of the cost is the lack of dealer support if there are any issues. That may not be a problem for many that post here, but it is for the average person.

When someone asks, you give them the official answer, and then a thread like this with the additional details. Then they can decide if that's a rabbit hole they want to go down.

 

[MJRSC]

Just saying it cannot be done may be incorrect, but it is the 'official' answer. The average owner is not going to go for the DIY install install on something like this. On top of the cost is the lack of dealer support if there are any issues. That may not be a problem for many that post here, but it is for the average person.

When someone asks, you give them the official answer, and then a thread like this with the additional details. Then they can decide if that's a rabbit hole they want to go down.

All very fair. And to close the loop, pretty sure I’m not going down this rabbit hole at this time. The juice ain’t worth the squeeze.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

All very fair. And to close the loop, pretty sure I’m not going down this rabbit hole at this time. The juice ain’t worth the squeeze.

You would need to get rather "technical" and be able to make at least one wiring harness. That takes some tools, and parts - doable if you have the knack. Modern wiring and connectors aren't often easy. Ask those who have door harness issues, can't make the tail light connections work at times.

 

[Kirk*Mojave]

Im glad I don't have acc in my mojave. My camry has it and I hate it

 

[dcmdon]

I know you said let's forgo the love hate for ACC.

But my hate is just for THIS IMPLEMENTATION of ACC.

I loved it in my last car. I love it in my wife's Volvo.

I hate it in my Jeep. It's crude and is not programed to be smooth. It's like it is constantly trying to achieve the perfect following distance, rather than letting things flow.

My old car, if someone pulled in between me and the car I was following, it would lift gently off the gas and almost imperceptibly slow until the gap was correct again then it would gradually advance the throttle.

My jeep in this same situation either lifts completely off the gas or stabs the brake. Then when the gap becomes too great, it floors the gas to try to establish the desired gap. Jerky and annoying.

The same thing happens if the car I'm following pulls out of the lane. The ACC will floor the throttle to try to close the gap.

It really sucks. A lot. It's a huge disappointment.

 

[MJRSC]

I know you said let's forgo the love hate for ACC.

But my hate is just for THIS IMPLEMENTATION of ACC.

I loved it in my last car. I love it in my wife's Volvo.

I hate it in my Jeep. It's crude and is not programed to be smooth. It's like it is constantly trying to achieve the perfect following distance, rather than letting things flow.

My old car, if someone pulled in between me and the car I was following, it would lift gently off the gas and almost imperceptibly slow until the gap was correct again then it would gradually advance the throttle.

My jeep in this same situation either lifts completely off the gas or stabs the brake. Then when the gap becomes too great, it floors the gas to try to establish the desired gap. Jerky and annoying.

The same thing happens if the car I'm following pulls out of the lane. The ACC will floor the throttle to try to close the gap.

It really sucks. A lot. It's a huge disappointment.

You’re excused and I’ll allow the hate lol. That sounds really bad. I too had good experiences on other cars and can admit when it’s bad (we have a Tesla, it’s not “so much” better with autopilot.)

I’m moving on now to other ways to waste money lol.

 

[Mr._Bill]

Yes, the Jeep version of ACC is a bit aggressive, but I wouldn't order another vehicle without it. I use it all the time.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

Yes, the Jeep version of ACC is a bit aggressive, but I wouldn't order another vehicle without it. I use it all the time.

Aggressive? Love it - in fact, I don't use the "normal" cruise since I found how well this works on my 2020. When I get to the highways and interstate, it's ACC.
Love that when you are surrounded by vehicles on all sides and the guy in front hits the brakes to make a list minute turn (from the wrong lane at times), it slows and then takes off again once they are gone. And with all of the truck traffic here (I80 and I35 cross here) it's fantastic.
Never had it behave in a way I didn't like. FCW has worked fine with both of mine as well.
Obviously, it's worked differently for some. Mine slows and doesn't hit the brakes unless it's the FCW acting. ACC doesn't act like that. Around here cutting in is a game so I'm glad for how it works. It maintains the distance like it should.

 

[Lunentucker]

Back to the original topic. There's no reason that it can't be added. They are all the same vehicles at their core, so with parts, knowledge, and money, yes.. It could be added.
It's just a question of how badly you want it.

People are amazing.

 

[Tommyd]

I know you said let's forgo the love hate for ACC.

But my hate is just for THIS IMPLEMENTATION of ACC.

I loved it in my last car. I love it in my wife's Volvo.

I hate it in my Jeep. It's crude and is not programed to be smooth. It's like it is constantly trying to achieve the perfect following distance, rather than letting things flow.

My old car, if someone pulled in between me and the car I was following, it would lift gently off the gas and almost imperceptibly slow until the gap was correct again then it would gradually advance the throttle.

My jeep in this same situation either lifts completely off the gas or stabs the brake. Then when the gap becomes too great, it floors the gas to try to establish the desired gap. Jerky and annoying.

The same thing happens if the car I'm following pulls out of the lane. The ACC will floor the throttle to try to close the gap.

It really sucks. A lot. It's a huge disappointment.

Yes it kills mpg for sure!

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