NEW! Elite Series JL Wrangler & JT Gladiator LED Headlights from Diode Dynamics

[WarMouth]

So got mine in today and installed them but am running into an issue with the passenger side light. The wires that plug into the back of the light are hitting the air filter box when I try to get them all the way in to bolt them.

Anyone else have an issue getting them in without hitting? Seems like it will put a lot of pressure on the back of the housing if I bolt them in.

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[JeepOfTheseus]

OH NO!!!!! That sucks. Yeah, I just kept turning it till I felt I had a good bite on the threads, and it worked... I'm sorry yours didn't turn out the same.

Wonder why it even lets you go that far in. Unless it’s a symptom of my overall issue.

 

[rconkin]

@WarMouth, mines tight against air filter box also. I didn’t notice until aiming them. I may pull the box again and put something around wires.

 

[WarMouth]

Thanks @rconkin don’t feel quite as crazy now ?

I am having some issues with the lights as well now. Neither projector beam is working all of a sudden and when I switch to high beams the come on but passenger side goes on and off. About to take it back down and recheck all the connections, if I can’t figure it out I’ll have to put the factory lights back in as wife is driving the Jeep tomorrow and she’ll need some headlights in the morning.

 

[rconkin]

@WarMouth did problems start when you started the engine? That’s when mine started.

 

[darkhorse13]

So got mine in today and installed them but am running into an issue with the passenger side light. The wires that plug into the back of the light are hitting the air filter box when I try to get them all the way in to bolt them.Anyone else have an issue getting them in without hitting? Seems like it will put a lot of pressure on the back of the housing if I bolt them in.

My connector is very close but not hitting. The wires bend against the airbox just enough to allow fitment of the headlight housing. I'll try to get pics tomorrow. Make sure the connector is pushed all the way in until you hear the click... it's VERY tight and requires a decent amount of pushing force.

@WarMouth did problems start when you started the engine? That’s when mine started.

Correct, when the vehicle starts and the headlights see a voltage spike that's when it would happen. Turning the headlight dial to test the lights in the ignition "RUN" position before the vehicle is first started will not introduce the voltage spike.

 

[darkhorse13]

The only think I may change is the hot lead that you tap into the fuse box, I may run to one of my 6 switches I have in the cab. I prefer going dark when pulling in and out out of my driveway and when camping, and the way it is now, the halos are on whenever the ignition is on. I simply prefer to have full control of my lighting.

Please don't quote me on this, but I don't believe that the red add-a-fuse wire is going to disable the halos. Again I could be wrong but I think your best bet is to follow the Programming Guide instructions included with the lights to configure the DRL COLOR = OFF (I'm guessing DRL COLOR is referring to the halos). That's my takeaway from the instruction screenshot below. This would give you full control over the halos, DRL bars (Max only) and show mode (Max only)

 

[WarMouth]

@WarMouth did problems start when you started the engine? That’s when mine started.

Yes problems started after I drove up and down the street. Now they seem to be trying to come on when I start it but not staying on. They then go back to only being lit up like the parking light config.

 

[WarMouth]

Yes problems started after I drove up and down the street. Now they seem to be trying to come on when I start it but not staying on. They then go back to only being lit up like the parking light config.

This is all I get now. Know it’s hard to see but the center projector isn’t lighting.

 

[WarMouth]

@darkhorse13 this is how it is in run, off, or actually running

 

[Benbean66]

Please don't quote me on this, but I don't believe that the red add-a-fuse wire is going to disable the halos. Again I could be wrong but I think your best bet is to follow the Programming Guide instructions included with the lights to configure the DRL COLOR = OFF (I'm guessing DRL COLOR is referring to the halos). That's my takeaway from the instruction screenshot below. This would give you full control over the halos, DRL bars (Max only) and show mode (Max only)

Hey John, thanks for the suggestion. I may actually try that before I go changing any of the wiring.

 

[rconkin]

Hey John, thanks for the suggestion. I may actually try that before I go changing any of the wiring.

Darkhorse13 is right. Everything except offroad worked on mine until I hooked up the red tap a fuse and blue wire correctly. How bright are your offroad lights? I guess I expected it to be a lot brighter.

 

[rconkin]

This is all I get now. Know it’s hard to see but the center projector isn’t lighting.

My issues were similar until I made changes in Jscan. I had halogens originally and had put led bulbs in. There wasn't a problem that way. When I installed the DD lights, it didn't like it. I had to change the front turn signlals using Jscan to led to get it to work right. Did you have led or halogen to begin with? Do you have jscan or Tazer? Sorry I went to bed and missed out on your last post last night.

 

[darkhorse13]

How bright are your offroad lights? I guess I expected it to be a lot brighter.

I haven't had a chance to test them in a really dark environment yet, but I feel like they are on par with my expectations. I think the goal of these is to just scatter light like a fog lens. They compliment the low beams nicely but don't shine as bright as dedicated pods. I wonder if @Diode Dynamics could give us a LUX reading on them just out of curiosity? I'm impressed that they thought of using that unused space for extra lighting. I'm sure they maximized brightness within the working parameters of space and extra heat.

Here's an image from my youtube clip of just the Off-Road lights... big scatter of light. I'm imagining in the woods this will be a nice alternative to dealing with a crisp low beam cutoff line halfway up a tree trunk. This wouldn't be great for high speed driving though as the wall here is only 25ft away.

This is all I get now. Know it’s hard to see but the center projector isn’t lighting.

If you have a Tazer or Jscan I think you need to set the front to LED like @rconkin said and you'll be set

 

[WarMouth]

Thanks @rconkin and @darkhorse13 unfortunately I don’t have either was hoping these didn’t need that based on DDs instructions. I’ll reach out to them and see but also go ahead and order a tazer or jscan.

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