Tera Flex level kit? Yes or no

[Clarkr32]

Do I need the 1.5 for front and the .75 for back also or just the front? I also need an alignment done after this right? Anything else? This the best one to buy?

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[bakobobby]

Assume you are looking at https://teraflex.com/jt-1-5-performance-spacer-leveling-kit-no-shocks.html# ?

Its only front and even then you can choose how much "lift" you install as it comes with 0.5" and 1.0" spacers. It also includes the extra bump stop you need if you are going to put in 33" tires to prevent binding issues.

Instructions advise alignment after install

https://teraflex.com/amfile/file/download/file/709/product/22303/

 

[Clarkr32]

I edited to say 1.5 as that’s what I meant but this one
TeraFlex 1155300 JT: 1.5” Performance Spacer Leveling Kit – No Shock Absorbers https://a.co/d/9JLe17w

And this one
Daystar-KJ09192 .75" REAR Lift Kit for 2020 Jeep Gladiator JT https://a.co/d/2zR4Ygi
What do u mean by binding issues and I’m going to a 35 eventually.

Assume you are looking at https://teraflex.com/jt-1-5-performance-spacer-leveling-kit-no-shocks.html# ?

Its only front and even then you can choose how much "lift" you install as it comes with 0.5" and 1.0" spacers. It also includes the extra bump stop you need if you are going to put in 33" tires to prevent binding issues.

Instructions advise alignment after install

https://teraflex.com/amfile/file/download/file/709/product/22303/

 

[bakobobby]

I edited to say 1.5 as that’s what I meant but this one
TeraFlex 1155300 JT: 1.5” Performance Spacer Leveling Kit – No Shock Absorbers https://a.co/d/9JLe17w

And this one
Daystar-KJ09192 .75" REAR Lift Kit for 2020 Jeep Gladiator JT https://a.co/d/2zR4Ygi
What do u mean by binding issues and I’m going to a 35 eventually.

Cool figured as much pretty familiar with the TF options.

So the Daystar is quite affordable and will get the job done leveling things out.

The Teraflex has more options seeing you can do 0.5-1.5" of lift up front depending on wants/needs, and it also includes bumpstop so you can run 33" tires and flex out off road w/o binding something up.

If you aren't planning on heavier front bumper/winch and/or going offroad where you'll want to flex out, or just aren't planning on 33" tires then can't see a point in going with Teraflex over the Daystar.

My 2 cents

 

[Clarkr32]

So to “level” it out I need the front and the back right? Or just the front? Maybe I’m confused on the concept there but I was to remove the rake and give me room for 35s. I read it’s best to get shocks with these too?

Cool figured as much pretty familiar with the TF options.

So the Daystar is quite affordable and will get the job done leveling things out.

The Teraflex has more options seeing you can do 0.5-1.5" of lift up front depending on wants/needs, and it also includes bumpstop so you can run 33" tires and flex out off road w/o binding something up.

If you aren't planning on heavier front bumper/winch and/or going offroad where you'll want to flex out, or just aren't planning on 33" tires then can't see a point in going with Teraflex over the Daystar.

My 2 cents

 

[bakobobby]

So to “level” it out I need the front and the back right? Or just the front? Maybe I’m confused on the concept there but I was to remove the rake and give me room for 35s. I read it’s best to get shocks with these too?

Just a front will do. Trucks in general come with the rear higher mostly due to towing/payload reasons. If you see a kit with front and back spacers it'll likely be called a spacer lift or something similar.

 

[Alaska-HWY JK]

We just put the 1.5 TF level kit on my wife’s Rubicon JT last weekend along with the longer Mopar control arms.
also Toyo AT3s 35/11.50/17.
Rides real nice after having 10 ply studded winter tires on since November.
Moved the axle only 1/4“ so didn’t have to adjust drag link.
Still has 3/4” rake so we’re not putting Daystar 3/4” spacer on the back, could be from adding Mopar steel bumper and a winch. They all sit a bit different and have different spring rates.

 

[Dougstdig]

Do I need the 1.5 for front and the .75 for back also or just the front? I also need an alignment done after this right? Anything else? This the best one to buy?

I have a JTRD...so it's a little heavy on the front end to start with. Then, I put on the Apex 12K winch and made it even more heavy. I went through the TSB for the shocks and bump stops and it still bottomed out, but not as bad as before. I installed the 1" front spacers and it's perfect. Id say I had about 3/4" sag so the 1" spacer made it look not so nose down.

 

[Clarkr32]

I have a JTRD...so it's a little heavy on the front end to start with. Then, I put on the Apex 12K winch and made it even more heavy. I went through the TSB for the shocks and bump stops and it still bottomed out, but not as bad as before. I installed the 1" front spacers and it's perfect. Id say I had about 3/4" sag so the 1" spacer made it look not so nose down.

What’s a cool spring adjustment do that the leveling kit won’t do?

 

[Clarkr32]

Also thank you everyone as I’m learning this stuff and was originally going to get the 1.5 TF front and daystar .75 back but now think I’ll be getting 1.5 TF with longer control arms and bilstein shocks

 

[Dougstdig]

What’s a cool spring adjustment do that the leveling kit won’t do?

I've never heard of a spring adjustment. When you start mix matching springs you don't only have to worry about spring height, you have to take into account spring rate. The way I have it set up I'm within 1/4" of factory height. When I'm in a position to really mess with the suspension, I'll get a full suspension system. Whether it be a bare bones kit that has the ability to add parts to bring it up to a full system or just get a full system. The goal is to not go cheap then have to start replacing parts...because you went cheap. With the 1" spacers it corrected an issue both with the sagging to the weight and bottoming out issue from the factory that they only put a band aid on.

When I go with a suspension, I'll get one specifically designed for the vehicles with a diesel motor since I'm carrying extra weight. I'm only aware of 2 manufacturers doing this...one being Clayton Offroad. The others use the same springs for the gas model and tell you to add a spacer, which only addresses ride height, but by not addressing the increase in spring rate they're not dealing with the added weight of the motor.

 

[Ohio JKU]

I have a Willy's, i put the terraflex 1.5" on the front first and measuring to the rock rail it was exactly level.... I actually wanted some rake and put the 3/4" daystar on the rear.

So 1.5" front should sit level.

 

[Clarkr32]

Ur pic said coil spring spacer adjustment kid so I asked cuz I had no idea

I've never heard of a spring adjustment. When you start mix matching springs you don't only have to worry about spring height, you have to take into account spring rate. The way I have it set up I'm within 1/4" of factory height. When I'm in a position to really mess with the suspension, I'll get a full suspension system. Whether it be a bare bones kit that has the ability to add parts to bring it up to a full system or just get a full system. The goal is to not go cheap then have to start replacing parts...because you went cheap. With the 1" spacers it corrected an issue both with the sagging to the weight and bottoming out issue from the factory that they only put a band aid on.

When I go with a suspension, I'll get one specifically designed for the vehicles with a diesel motor since I'm carrying extra weight. I'm only aware of 2 manufacturers doing this...one being Clayton Offroad. The others use the same springs for the gas model and tell you to add a spacer, which only addresses ride height, but by not addressing the increase in spring rate they're not dealing with the added weight of the motor.

 

[Dougstdig]

Also thank you everyone as I’m learning this stuff and was originally going to get the 1.5 TF front and daystar .75 back but now think I’ll be getting 1.5 TF with longer control arms and bilstein shocks

Something else to consider, is the Mopar longer control arms that come with their lift kit are only about 3/8" longer. Folks have reported up to 2.5-3" of lift, so with 1" or 1.5 in spacers may very well not require longer arms. The factory springs also tend to settle or sag fairly quickly. Not by much, but if you add a winch, as in my case, to get it back to stock it will only take 1" in the front. I didn't see where you indicated which model JT you have, but if you have a Rubicon or Mohave, you can run 35's without a lift.

 

[bakobobby]

What’s a cool spring adjustment do that the leveling kit won’t do?

Spacers sit between the spring and body to create lift. The spring still works essentially the same as before. Spring of longer length will have more travel essentially. Longer springs often will increase ride height compared to shorter springs.

Springs are made for various purposes some are suited for more clearance, flexing, some for heavy loads, some for comfort and some try and do a few things. For Gladiators many will run a dual rate up front and triple rate out back which can give good off road performance while also doing will towing or with payloads.

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