Rock Hard VS White Knuckle Sliders

[Jefe1018]

Curious what the perspective is from folks running either of these sliders, I'm a fan of the White Knuckle and a little biased towards them because of the kick-out that should theoretically push your rear tire away from the obstacle you are sliding on.

I am also curious about what I should consider with a fully frame mounted slider like WK vs the pinch weld and tub mounted slider from RH.

I started to look into Rock Hard because I've been emailing White Knuckle since last week (twice) and didn't hear back on a current leads times where as Rock Hard got back to me within a few hours letting me know they are leaving their shop in less than two weeks from time of order.

I know most people seem to like the Rock Hard stuff, but from even my time in the Nissan community, White Knuckle was the standard - so it makes me a little nervous.

I'm looking at the RHX series from Rock Hard and the Fully Plated away from the body with White Knuckle.

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[ATL_Rubi]

I also reached out to WK to know what the dimensional difference was between w/ rubi sliders vs w/o rubi sldiers. I assume one sits lower/further out? I am sure someone here will chime in about frame mounted and the forces the sliders can put on the frame, but, I believe our frames are HSS and are unlikely to be affected.

 

[Jefe1018]

I also reached out to WK to know what the dimensional difference was between w/ rubi sliders vs w/o rubi sldiers. I assume one sits lower/further out? I am sure someone here will chime in about frame mounted and the forces the sliders can put on the frame, but, I believe our frames are HSS and are unlikely to be affected.

That's another point I didn't mention, the ability to keep your rubi rails intact gives me extra peace of mind. I know for a fact you'd lose a bit of clearance as it would have to travel lower under the rubi rail by an inch or two.

I don't think the weight of the truck on the RH would damage the tub/pinch weld if used as even a jacking point, but the extra double down security keeps me wanting to lean towards WK... but they haven't been answering.

 

[jeepers29]

Rock hard stuff is top notch. I have not run their sliders but have used their bumpers and skids and could not ask for better. FYI.

 

[whiteglad]

I don't prefer the frame mounting. The great leverage if a slider hits a big rock could distort the frame. High Strength steel is not tolerant of bubba welding or random hole drilling. The Rock Hard mounting allows the rails to flex with the body on its mounts while being strongly mounted.

 

[Jefe1018]

I don't prefer the frame mounting. The great leverage if a slider hits a big rock could distort the frame. High Strength steel is not tolerant of bubba welding or random hole drilling. The Rock Hard mounting allows the rails to flex with the body on its mounts while being strongly mounted.

Correct me if I'm wrong, but if you drop the truck on a rock with enough force to distort the frame, wouldn't you be in just as much trouble with one mounted to the tub and pinch weld? That would be an extreme, not the casual rub and/or slide most of us end up using them for.

 

[SargeDiesel]

?Another one for the Rock Hard. I prefer the way they mount. Initially I had concerns about loosing/replacing the oem rock rails, but believe me, there is no comparison. I got the Patriot Series.

 

[whiteglad]

There is some flex and softening of the hit if the rails are on the tub and body mount pads. The rail ties the whole body together to resist distortion. If the rail is solidly bolted to the frame, you get a direct, sharp hit multiplied by the distance from the frame rail.

 

[GladLad]

?Another one for the Rock Hard. I prefer the way they mount. Initially I had concerns about loosing/replacing the oem rock rails, but believe me, there is no comparison. I got the Patriot Series.

I thought I read the down angle RH rails didn't decrease clearance at all, as they didn't go lower than the rail portion that replaces the rubi rails. Yet, in these pictures it looks like the round outer tube is slightly lower than the inner square tube. Is that an illusion?

Is the square tube same clearance otherwise as the rubi rails?

Lastly, are those XL-Long Rockblokz?

 

[SargeDiesel]

I thought I read the down angle RH rails didn't decrease clearance at all, as they didn't go lower than the rail portion that replaces the rubi rails. Yet, in these pictures it looks like the round outer tube is slightly lower than the inner square tube. Is that an illusion?

Is the square tube same clearance otherwise as the rubi rails?

Lastly, are those XL-Long Rockblokz?

Maybe this is a better angle. I know with the Patriot Series, you either choose angled up or down.
They are not any lower than the lowest point-of-impact of the underside of the JT.
The round tubes are even *almost even, with the square tubes.

The square tubes line up underneath and with the wheel wells same as oem.

Yes, Xl and Xl-long

If you want, I can get you better pictures tomorrow of the clearance and where they line up with the front/rear fender- wheel well.

 

[GladLad]

Maybe this is a better angle. I know with the Patriot Series, you either choose angled up or down.
They are not any lower than the lowest point-of-impact of the underside of the JT.
The round tubes are even *almost even, with the square tubes.

The square tubes line up underneath and with the wheel wells same as oem.

Yes, Xl and Xl-long

If you want, I can get you better pictures tomorrow of the clearance and where they line up with the front/rear fender- wheel well.

Thanks. Some of those shots make the round tube look even lower, worsening the illusion if they're almost even. Either way, I think you may have corrected my misunderstanding. Maybe it wasn't that they weren't any lower than the square tube, but rather that they were still above the lowest point.

It'd still be nice to see or have a measurement how much lower they are than the square tube to get an accurate idea if you don't mind; so thank you for the offer! Not sure if I'll get them, but was originally thinking angled up to avoid clearance losses (before learning that's not case). But down looks better and would make a better step for the gf if I go that route.

Seems people say angled up is better to prevent parking lot door dings, but I think they're only about 4" difference up vs down. I'm sure that difference can affect some doors not reaching it, but either should cover many doors, and not a great concern of mine at this moment anyway.

 

[SargeDiesel]

Thanks. Some of those shots make the round tube look even lower, worsening the illusion if they're almost even. Either way, I think you may have corrected my misunderstanding. Maybe it wasn't that they weren't any lower than the square tube, but rather that they were still above the lowest point.

It'd still be nice to see or have a measurement how much lower they are than the square tube to get an accurate idea if you don't mind; so thank you for the offer! Not sure if I'll get them, but was originally thinking angled up to avoid clearance losses (before learning that's not case). But down looks better and would make a better step for the gf if I go that route.

Seems people say angled up is better to prevent parking lot door dings, but I think they're only about 4" difference up vs down. I'm sure that difference can affect some doors not reaching it, but either should cover many doors, and not a great concern of mine at this moment anyway.

If you're doing a lift, the angel down will take care of any door dings. The only advantage the angeled up would have is when actually rock crawling, if you plan on scrapping them all the way up... in a tight squeeze... personally, the angel down look way better(imo) and I'm on pavement 90% of the time. I will get you better pics, supposed to rain tomorrow, but I will get you some.

 

[GladLad]

If you're doing a lift, the angel down will take care of any door dings. The only advantage the angeled up would have is when actually rock crawling, if you plan on scrapping them all the way up... in a tight squeeze... personally, the angel down look way better(imo) and I'm on pavement 90% of the time. I will get you better pics, supposed to rain tomorrow, but I will get you some.

No lift planned (yet). I'll be mostly pavement and when off-road not rock crawling most of the time (Michigan). So I agree, down is likely my better choice for needs and look and step.

I appreciate it, but really no rush as my Gladiator order is months away from being done. I'm only looking so I know what route I may want to go with other stuff. Rockblokz with/without rubi rail cutout, step options for the gf, etc. Current plan is to stick with rubi rails, unless gf really needs a step, and then consider RH or rubi rail add-on steps, or other.

 

[SargeDiesel]

I did take you a couple pics, used a spot light.

You will see the "Round tubes" are an 1" or LESS below the "square tubes". I used a level.
Also,
I took a shot with the camera lens even with the bottom of the rail, and you can see there are many things under the JT that are below the rails... so clearance wouldn't be a concern for me.

*side note: you dont need the pre-cutout R/B with the Rock Hard Sliders.

 

[Jefe1018]

Well despite all the votes for Rock Hard, I got my answers from White Knuckle today. Order placed with them. They said 6-8 week lead time, but they are only a few hours drive from me, save myself the shipping charges for the price of a tank of fuel. So $300ish vs $80ish.

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