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$4000 budget for lift and rims and tires.

Fcollazo76

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Just bought a 22 High Altitude Gladiator. Wanted to put some 17' rims with 35' tires and a 2.5 inch lift kit. Just need some advice for what kind of lift kit that won't mess up the factory ride that much. My local shop is suggesting the RC 2.5 lift kit with M1 shocks with a RC N3 steering stabilizer dual. Im thinking abt going with the Nitto Ridge Grapplers. Whats y'all suggestions? I have a budget of $4000 since im laid off rite now. Thank you .
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techteacher

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Just bought a 22 High Altitude Gladiator. Wanted to put some 17' rims with 35' tires and a 2.5 inch lift kit. Just need some advice for what kind of lift kit that won't mess up the factory ride that much. My local shop is suggesting the RC 2.5 lift kit with M1 shocks with a RC N3 steering stabilizer dual. Im thinking abt going with the Nitto Ridge Grapplers. Whats y'all suggestions? I have a budget of $4000 since im laid off rite now. Thank you .
Clayton has a 2.5" that should leave you enough to do wheels and tires.
https://www.claytonoffroad.com/product/jeep-gladiator-25-ride-right-lift-kit-2020-jt-1
 

JeepOfTheseus

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Get yourself a nice TS stabilizer instead of that RC dual kit. I've been battling fitment issues which led me to trying out everything from Fox IFP to TS to ATS, as well as that dual kit. The Fox ATS is by far the best imo - dialing the stiffness up has done wonders to tightening up the steering feel.
 

DailyMoparGuy

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I’m not sure what your goals are for the rig but if it were me, I’d skip on the wheels for now and focus on getting a solid starter lift kit from a company like MetalCloak or Clayton.

Check out Metalcloak’s 2.5” True DualRate lift kit (https://metalcloak.com/jeep-jt-gladiator-2-5-true-dual-rate-lift-kit.html). I’ve heard and seen good things about their base level Rocksport shocks as well. $2k kit with shocks, $1500 without.

Clayton Offroad’s equivalent kit ($1600 no shocks) -https://www.claytonoffroad.com/product/jeep-gladiator-diesel-25-ride-right-lift-kit-2020-jt

And this is coming from someone who went the 2.5 RC route first and now has a bunch of MetalCloak suspension components too now. Nothing wrong with that RC 2.5” kit, but you’re gonna want adjustable track bars and adjustable control arms (or drop brackets).

Edit: Also check out Kanati Trailhog ATs. They have great pricing and I’ve read enough great things about them to know they’ll be my next tire. Good luck!
 

bleda2002

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On road mostly and fire/dirt roads maybe? If so just go with a 2" spacer lift and some shock extensions or some bilstein 5100s or fox 2.0s and the mopar lower control arms. That will get you the lift, keep the stock ride with better dampening, and only be 1K so you could spend 3K on tires and rims. Personally i'd try to find some take off XR or Bronco 35's (315/70r17) to save on the tires too unless you are set on the nittos.

The sky is the limit on lifts, but it really depends on what you're trying to do with the truck. If all you need is to fit 35's comfortably and get it up the air a spacer lift works just fine.
 

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TheDerb

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Wheelin98TJ

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The Clayton setup isnt good for off-road… it’s a pavement kit per their guidance. i Figure it’s worthwhile to mention that. I a,most picked one up until somebody explained that to me.
You’re misunderstood or were misled.
Hey there! Definitely post some photos once you get the kit installed :like:

The Ride Right is of course very capable off-road as it is a more complete entry-level kit than most other options on the market, and the only addition we recommend adding is the bump stop extensions if you plan on using it for this purpose. The main reason this kit is not designed as our ultimate off-road style lift is due to the lack of all 8 control arms. The factory bushings are fine off-road at factory height, but as you start to lift the vehicle and add more strain on the bushings they begin to wear out a lot quicker. Also, not having the lower adjustable control arms will mean the wheelbase is not properly centered which will cost you some flex as you are more likely to rub the fender, and the rear upper arms will help to correct your pinion angle.

The Ride Right kit is a great option for guys looking for the best entry-level option on the market, but of course a complete system like the Overland Plus kit is going to have advantages on and off-road due to better geometry and better bushings. Hope this helps to clear up any confusion!
 

ScottBeach

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You mentioned laid off. So i assume you live off income. I would hold off on this till you have work. 4k in the bank sounds better right now.
 

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Fcollazo76

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You mentioned laid off. So i assume you live off income. I would hold off on this till you have work. 4k in the bank sounds better right now.
Thanks for all your information. I am planning only doing regular street driving for now until i get back to work. 4k in the bank does sound good also. I will mention this to my local shop and see what they say about the Clayton setup.
 

Wheelin98TJ

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strange… this is the product page and I highlighted what was highlighted for me in making my decision.

IMG_0211.jpeg
It’s still good off road.

Adjustable track bars so the axles are centered and able to cycle, full travel without hitting on one side first cause of being off center.

Doesn’t come with shocks, so you can add longer shocks that will get you more travel.

Taller coils with more range than stock coils.

It’s a nice kit for the price.
 

Wheelin98TJ

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A wise man once informed me that first mods for actual off-road use should be: winch, armor, rear locker (in that order). I'll just note that wheels, big tires, and lift are not on this list.
Tires are #1. A locker with slicks is worthless. Winching instead of driving is boring.

Good tires and a tow strap are what I’d suggest for first mods for off road.
 

fourfa

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True, I don't know what came on the 22 HA. So maybe barely-used Rubicon takeoffs, which have to be the best bargain in all off-roading
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