jav_eee
Well-Known Member
not in my experience.Tazers are garbage
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not in my experience.Tazers are garbage
Yeah, car is shorter than Jeep - on the other hand, it's longer than JT, the model of the Gladiator, which is 3 times longer than car.LOL. I was desperate to write something fast. That was it I bet.
The Jeep reprogramming from the dealer for the tire size wouldn't stick so I was forced to install one. I've not had any issues with mine, but I don't mess with it beyond the gear / tire size features.not in my experience.
???????The Jeep reprogramming from the dealer for the tire size wouldn't stick
What I was experiencing was that I'd go for a drive after it had sat for a few days and the speedometer would be off based on the tire size. I'd get to where I was going and then on the return trip or if I was making multiple stops, one of the subsequent trips to an additional stop, it would be working again after starting the vehicle.???????
Why would a settings change "not stick". It's simply go in and set the tire circumference (although software and tazer actually calculate the circumference for you - you plug in diameter instead)
Gotta wonder what's up with that. Once it's changed, there's nothing to make it go away unless there's a full software flash of that module involved which of course is tied to your VIN and can put the stock settings back in.
Makes me wonder what that particular dealer was doing.
They can't flip-flop like that. The setting is stored and doesn't "revert" as it doesn't, and can't, save old settings. It's written in, saved, and there's nothing to go back to because the old number is gone.What I was experiencing was that I'd go for a drive after it had sat for a few days and the speedometer would be off based on the tire size. I'd get to where I was going and then on the return trip or if I was making multiple stops, one of the subsequent trips to an additional stop, it would be working again after starting the vehicle.
Looks like mostly everything is good once the Aux battery was put back in. The mechanic is looking it over, but looking like the Aux battery powers more than just the start/stop as many mention. I must of not tighten the right things down or what you mentions by not separating wires that went to the Aux. They are checking the fuse. However driving for 30 mins (longer than yesterday) and the Coolant Temp stayed within 180-210 degreesYou likely blew part of the high current fuse when fussing with trying to disconnect the aux battery. The high current fuse handles the cooling fan. That's a $175 item by itself.
Ya gotta be careful and not start just doing things because you read something or heard something - and when working with these batteries, they aren't always disconnected fully when you think they are. If you didn't take the ground cable off the main battery then separate the two black cables from each other and isolate them from touching anything, could have very easily taken out a fuse.
Look up "high current fuse". It's the big honker on the end of the PDC where the other fuses are. All those studs sticking up - that's where the high current fuse is. It shows multiple but it's all in one fuse array so if one is bad, you replace the whole fuse array.
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That's a great coolant temperature range.Looks like mostly everything is good once the Aux battery was put back in. The mechanic is looking it over, but looking like the Aux battery powers more than just the start/stop as many mention. I must of not tighten the right things down or what you mentions by not separating wires that went to the Aux. They are checking the fuse. However driving for 30 mins (longer than yesterday) and the Coolant Temp stayed within 180-210 degrees
I can only tell you about my experience. I use CarPlay with Waze, and sometimes the GPS would show that my speedometer was off if I let the vehicle sit and then drove it. However, on subsequent drives, it would be back to normal. I have experienced this issue on multiple occasions, and there were witnesses who also noticed it during drives. I understand that you are knowledgeable about this topic, and I'm not trying to be argumentative. I'm not sure if this issue is similar or related to the one I've experienced with the apps and backup camera not working after the vehicle has been sitting for some time, and then all those functions suddenly working again after driving the vehicle. However, I can say with certainty that this is something I've encountered in my Gladiator.They can't flip-flop like that. The setting is stored and doesn't "revert" as it doesn't, and can't, save old settings. It's written in, saved, and there's nothing to go back to because the old number is gone.
In fact, people who make any changes, then later want to go back, can't unless they have written down the old numbers or used something like AlfaOBD which can save the settings in the bottom of the log - but you can't tell it to go back to them. You must enter things manually. There's not an automatic way to go back.
AlfaOBD will save changes for you to a log withing AlfaOBD - because these old settings do not reside any place else, not in the vehicle ->
Car configuration change: Auto High Beam Module Location: ' NONE ' -> '4 '
Car configuration change: Auto High Beam CSM Present: ' NO ' -> '1 '
Car configuration change: Auto Highbeam: ' NO ' -> '1 '
If I wanted to remove the auto high beam feature, I'd have to use this AlfaOBD log and put the original settings back.
This is a log from my 2020 JT showing how and where it keeps tire size - once changed, it's changed -
VehConfig 4:
___________________
Transfer Case High Ratio (0-16.382): 1.000
Axle Ratio (0-65.534): 3.730
Transfer Case Low Range Reduction Ratio (0-65.534): 2.720
Dynamic Tire Circumference (All or Rear) (0-65534 mm): 2508.000 mm
Can't see how it could flip-flop since it's saved and changed forever unless someone changes it back.
Yeah, I think i know what happen, I was doing this at work with only a adjustable wrench and know for sure I didnt tighten everything down. However it was making contact to the botl but maybe that was not enough.That's a great coolant temperature range.
VERY possible that something wasn't tightened down or was out of place a bit.
This is a schematic of that fuse array - the radiator fan is N5. It's powered via the alternator and main battery.
N1 is from the pos terminal of the aux battery.
N2 is from the main battery positive.
So either the fan is powered from the main battery through N2 over to N5,
or
with the alternator charging, the fan is powered through N7 fuse from alternator output over to N5 fuse.
N3 goes down to the PCR (a relay for the aux battery) and to the aux positive to charge the aux battery.
If N3 is blown, the aux battery can't charge.
If N7 is blown, there's no alternator output to either battery or much of anything else.
If N5 is blown, the fan won't operate.
N6 powers the EHPS - ElectroHydraulic Power Steering.
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Are AGM tenders different then the old school green one I use on ATVs, SxS and the old CJ5??Sounds like low battery voltage (either aux or main or both) Get them checked out for charge level or have an AGM battery tender put on and charge them up.
I’m not able to say what type of batteries are in those units. AGM (Absorbent Glass Mat) is the type of batteries in the JT. So these batteries require an AGM charger or tender.Are AGM tenders different then the old school green one I use on ATVs, SxS and the old CJ5??