Pentastar 6 vs the Wrangler 2.0

[Erievon]

Ever done it with a turbo downstream? Chunks can't be good for the exhaust wheel.

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[ShadowsPapa]

Ever done it with a turbo downstream? Chunks can't be good for the exhaust wheel.

To me the idea is to do it as preventative and not wait until you have big chunks of carbon to break off. The biggest issue will be intake valve stems and necks.
On the other hand, I was really "just wondering" if a person did that every 10K if it would matter.

We have a 2.0 - I'll just take it out and flog it now and then.

 

[FLGladiator]

The only issue i foresee is direct injection and the need for a walnut blast ~100,000 miles. Beyond that, turbo 4 bangers have become the norm and really can last quite a while.

What's a walnut blast? lol

 

[ShrimpHappens]

We have a 2.0 - I'll just take it out and flog it now and then.

That's what I was thinking. A weekly Italian tuneup might be beneficial.

 

[ATL_Rubi]

What's a walnut blast? lol

Direct injection engines are prone to carbon buildup on the valves which leads to small issues/ Loss of power, misfires, etc. A walnut blast is exactly what it sounds like. They pressurize walnut grinds and blast the valves to clean them. Picture below for reference:

Editing to add: don't let this deter you though, it's a simple process. 4 bangers are great little engines if you understand they're not going to be power houses.

 

[Erievon]

And we aren't sure if the Jeep/Alpha 2.0t is susceptible to this DI carbon issue. It's common in older direct injection engines.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

And we aren't sure if the Jeep/Alpha 2.0t is susceptible to this DI carbon issue. It's common in older direct injection engines.

Yeah, very true.
Oil lubes the valve stems - valve seals on the top of the guide prevent excess oil and keep it down to a bare minimum. That oil gets baked onto the stem and neck and bottom of the valve head and builds up.
On older engines with worn guides and/or seals (old seals literally got brittle and broke) then too much oil went down the valve stem and baked on. It could actually built up to the valve face and prevent a good clean closure of the valve, leading to valve burning or not seating and the bad stuff that builds from there.
Port injection means the incoming fuel spray washes the oil off the valves.
Carbureted engines it was a similar thing but back then the technology for valve guides, stems and seals wasn't what it is today so it was a big issue even with the fuel mix coming through due to the amount of oil coming down the stem. It was made worse when the return passages plugged with deposits preventing oil from draining off the tops of the heads back to the crankcase. Some engines were worse than others.
We used to run the valve stems fairly tight in the guides and knurl the guide to give it oil and the tight fit restricted the oil getting past the guide down to the valve head. Positive seals helped a lot vs. the umbrellas of the 60s and 70s.

So it's maybe a bit early to know if there's a problem here with these. MOPAR, at least on the 3.6, really restricted valve stem oil after revamping the valves, smaller and shorter guides and stems - that did two things - less oil, and lighter valves (which is always a good thing)


What we did way back when - pull the heads, remove the valves, wire brush the carbon off the valves and the heads and combustion chamber, grind valves as needed, replace seals, put it back together. Pretty intrusive.
My only thing with the walnut blasting is you are removing the carbon but only that can be reached in that way. You don't know what the valve face or seat are like and it doesn't do anything to remove the carbon in places you can't see in that picture.
Me - I'm a pull the heads, thorough inspection, reseat valves if needed, check seals and stems and guides, just like the old days. If I'm that far into it, I can't stand the thought of only doing half a job. It would drive me nuts.

 

[HorneyBadger]

The wife has one in her JL. Its a little noisy/pingy on cold start in my mind due to the turbo but... It blows away the 3.6 in peppyness. She loves it. I was surprised how much get up and go it has. Way faster response than her 2014 JK with the 3.6 and will chew my JT up...LOL.

 

[DesertGladiator]

Wife has the 2.0 in her Alfa Romeo, the thing is super quick and after 30K miles has ran flawless. Not sure how it'd move a heavy Gladiator.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

if Jeep ever moves to the electric assist turbo, goodbye lag, hello smooth and more quiet.

 

[Punkn Expo]

Direct injection engines are prone to carbon buildup on the valves which leads to small issues/ Loss of power, misfires, etc. A walnut blast is exactly what it sounds like. They pressurize walnut grinds and blast the valves to clean them. Picture below for reference:

Editing to add: don't let this deter you though, it's a simple process. 4 bangers are great little engines if you understand they're not going to be power houses.

Would an oil catch can help prevent this carbon build up?

 

[TheGrendel]

My buddy has the 2.0T, and it's far and away a better engine than the 3.6. I have a JK and a JT. The JT with the 8 speed is an improvement on the JK. But, that 2.0 really gets going.

 

[ATL_Rubi]

Would an oil catch can help prevent this carbon build up?

It does help! I know many people call it snake oil, but it helps. It's paramount to get a quality kit, but with the continual use of the 2.0 by Mopar, I'm willing to bet there are quite a few out there.

 

[Punkn Expo]

It does help! I know many people call it snake oil, but it helps. It's paramount to get a quality kit, but with the continual use of the 2.0 by Mopar, I'm willing to bet there are quite a few out there.

I think it helps too, but I'm no expert. I've got the Billet brand oil catch can installed in my Jeep JLU 3.6L and when you see how much oil you prevent from getting recycled back into the intake manifold, it just seems intuitive to me that its a good thing to have, especially if you plan on keeping your Jeep for the long haul, as I do.

 

[ATL_Rubi]

I think it helps too, but I'm no expert. I've got the Billet brand oil catch can installed in my Jeep JLU 3.6L and when you see how much oil you prevent from getting recycled back into the intake manifold, it just seems intuitive to me that its a good thing to have, especially if you plan on keeping your Jeep for the long haul, as I do.

Yep! I had one on my gen 3 E888 Volkswagen engine, and currently have one on my wife's B58 engine and it does wonders. My E888 had ~115k miles and the valves looked great, i ran the can for 65,000 of those miles.

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