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Aftermarket 3.6 Engine Oil Cooler?

Gregors

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I have a '22 JT Overland with the tow package. I tow a small TT well within the towing specs (4600 Loaded). The Temps are a bit higher than I would like to see especially the engine oil. On a recnt trip to MI from NC, I saw 260 on the oil in the mountains. Trans was pretty consistent in the 200-206 range with a couple of spikes into the 222 range. I don't believe I have an engine oil cooler. Is there an aftermarket option available if there is not one installed already? I am running Mobil 1 0W-20. Thanks! GH
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I have in the 250’s a couple of times towing my camper. I do lot have the tow package but am planning on adding the 850 watt fan. I am also curious about an after market oil cooler.
 

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I have a '22 JT Overland with the tow package. I tow a small TT well within the towing specs (4600 Loaded). The Temps are a bit higher than I would like to see especially the engine oil. On a recnt trip to MI from NC, I saw 260 on the oil in the mountains. Trans was pretty consistent in the 200-206 range with a couple of spikes into the 222 range. I don't believe I have an engine oil cooler. Is there an aftermarket option available if there is not one installed already? I am running Mobil 1 0W-20. Thanks! GH
260 is high on the oil but the other numbers - meh, no problems.
Spikes into 222 on the transmission are not a big deal, if you are concerned (not sure why you would be if that's all it does) you could move it into manual mode and prevent hunting if the transmission is shifting back and forth too much.

What was the ambient air temperature (was it hotter tha @#% out there?) and how high were you? Mountain air can be thin and harder to cool things anyway.
 
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Gregors

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There is one (sort of) built into the oil filter housing.
1689633417175.jpeg
I just looked and I do have have that one, but don't feel it is doing its job at 260 degrees. I'd like to know how difficult it would be to add another one. If it is just hoses and a cooler, that wouldn't be too difficult, but getting to it is another thing...
 

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Hootbro

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I do not think 260 degrees is beyond what a quality synthetic oil can handle, but I would treat towing as "Severe Duty" and halve any oil change interval to account for it.
 
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Gregors

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260 is high on the oil but the other numbers - meh, no problems.
Spikes into 222 on the transmission are not a big deal, if you are concerned (not sure why you would be if that's all it does) you could move it into manual mode and prevent hunting if the transmission is shifting back and forth too much.

What was the ambient air temperature (was it hotter tha @#% out there?) and how high were you? Mountain air can be thin and harder to cool things anyway.
Temps were in the low 80's, but altitude wasn't much in the Appalachains, under 4,000 feet. I do tend to shift manually just to prevent the engine racing. It doesn't seem to hunt, it just doesn't shift early enough for my taste. I don't think it needs to be in the 4500-5000 RPM range to keep power.
 
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Gregors

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I do not think 260 degrees is beyond what a quality synthetic oil can handle, but I would treat towing as "Severe Duty" and halve any oil change interval to account for it.
I agree the oil can handle it. It just seems pretty hot for the aluminum parts like the heads etc. If I can spend a coupel hunderd bucks and reduce it, I would give me peace of mind. But then again, I don't to wevery day.
 

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Temps were in the low 80's, but altitude wasn't much in the Appalachains, under 4,000 feet. I do tend to shift manually just to prevent the engine racing. It doesn't seem to hunt, it just doesn't shift early enough for my taste. I don't think it needs to be in the 4500-5000 RPM range to keep power.
Don't try to keep it below 3,000 - that's a mistake. Yes, I let mine wind up to 4300 routinely. Yes, it helps and runs cooler.
If you think you are trying to save it keeping the RPM down too low - you are making it struggle and it will run hotter. These need to wind up. It's how modern gas engines are.
You are making less power and torque at lower RPM and making it struggle to haul the same load at the same speed - while restricting it.
Let 'er rip. Seriously.
You'll do harm if you try to keep it down under 2500-3,000 if it's a hard pull.
 

ShadowsPapa

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I do not think 260 degrees is beyond what a quality synthetic oil can handle, but I would treat towing as "Severe Duty" and halve any oil change interval to account for it.
Agreed.




Explanation of why to cut the intervals when towing and running high temperatures:
260 is in the sump.
The shear forces drive that temperature up in the bearing area, the crank journals and then there's the oil sprayed at the pistons that's getting a lot hotter.
Granted, for short periods of time, but over time, little by little, it gets beyond the threshold of breakdown.
All of that above is why you cut the oil change intervals down.


The answer to his oil temperatures you already gave - halve the oil change interval.
No problems then.
So the bottom line is that for short periods he's not hurting things.

I'd skip the cooler, decrease oil change intervals (if running high temps and towing a lot, at least half)
 

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Gregors

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Don't try to keep it below 3,000 - that's a mistake. Yes, I let mine wind up to 4300 routinely. Yes, it helps and runs cooler.
If you think you are trying to save it keeping the RPM down too low - you are making it struggle and it will run hotter. These need to wind up. It's how modern gas engines are.
You are making less power and torque at lower RPM and making it struggle to haul the same load at the same speed - while restricting it.
Let 'er rip. Seriously.
You'll do harm if you try to keep it down under 2500-3,000 if it's a hard pull.
Understood. I've owned enough GM products to know that hunting and trans heat go together. I don't spend a lot of time looking at the tach, but rather manually shift when there are sufficient RPM's to aviod lugging. I totally understand and agree with your post.
 
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Gregors

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Agreed.




Explanation of why to cut the intervals when towing and running high temperatures:
260 is in the sump.
The shear forces drive that temperature up in the bearing area, the crank journals and then there's the oil sprayed at the pistons that's getting a lot hotter.
Granted, for short periods of time, but over time, little by little, it gets beyond the threshold of breakdown.
All of that above is why you cut the oil change intervals down.


The answer to his oil temperatures you already gave - halve the oil change interval.
No problems then.
So the bottom line is that for short periods he's not hurting things.

I'd skip the cooler, decrease oil change intervals (if running high temps and towing a lot, at least half)
Got it and I will do so. Thanks!
 

ShadowsPapa

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It just seems pretty hot for the aluminum parts like the heads etc. If I can spend a coupel hunderd bucks and reduce it,
Not hot at all for those aluminum parts. Aluminum has been used in high performance engines for years - and some run REALLY hot. Some run down a dragstrip fanless to conserve horsepower.
Aluminum melts over 1200 degrees - you aren't touching that anywhere. And you are talking OIL - which doesn't matter for the aluminum parts.
 

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I agree the oil can handle it. It just seems pretty hot for the aluminum parts like the heads etc. If I can spend a coupel hunderd bucks and reduce it, I would give me peace of mind. But then again, I don't to wevery day.
I get the sentiment but the tradeoff is adding another possible failure point.

FWIW, there is a oil temperature warning light called out in the owners manual if the oil gets too hot. Does not specify what that temp threshold is.
 
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Gregors

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I get the sentiment but the tradeoff is adding another possible failure point.

FWIW, there is a oil temperature warning light called out in the owners manual if the oil gets too hot. Does not specify what that temp threshold is.
Good Deal. I think I'm going to increase the oil change intervals and let it ride. I appreocate the feedback. GH
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