Does anyone make a press in/ out no-drill top -mount factory drag link ball joint?

[sharpsicle]

No, please... Keep going...

Relax my friend. You haven’t been the clearest in your posts. Nothing wrong with recognizing that and moving on. No need to egg on others.

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[Pescatoral Pursuit]

Look; Another one!

 

[Cburd61]

Just as an aside, has anyone seen what a factory ball joint looks like inside? I tried to replace them on my wife’s Grand Cherokee. The bottom lower was a real booger, but doable. The rest, I ended up replacing everything. Upper control arm, and tie rod ends. They look similar to the ones on the JT. This is what’s inside the upper control arm…….Came apart while pressing it out

 

[mx5red]

So back to your original point, what are your drag flip options for your 6” lift?

 

[Pescatoral Pursuit]

So back to your original point, what are your drag flip options for your 6” lift?

After wading through the bullshit previously posted (along with some helpful info) it would appear my options are leave it as is (currently at 5.5" in the front and steering feels okay, haven't taken it offroad yet) or put a steer smarts no-drill top mount drag link in.

There's no rock crawling to speak of down here, and despite warnings to the contrary, there doesn't appear to be much of any Internet chatter on part failure.

 

[rharr]

the steer smart will work, it's got a slightly smaller bolt cross section then a standard tie rod end, so in theory it's going to be weaker. Like you said, sounds like you aren't doing crazy things just don't try to force the wheels to turn when they are jambed against something, 40's are big tires to make a drag link move. Hopefully you haven't ordered the kit yet, I would order a spare tie rod end to keep in the truck if the one in use decides it's done playing.

 

[Rusty PW]

Here's something no said yet. Bump steer. When you change the location of one of pivots on the drag link or track bar. That may induce bump steer. The drag link and track bar are supposed to be in parallel to one another.

 

[Pescatoral Pursuit]

Here's something no said yet. Bump steer. When you change the location of one of pivots on the drag link or track bar. That may induce bump steer. The drag link and track bar are supposed to be in parallel to one another.

I'm aware of this and have the track bar relocation bracket ready to go if and when I do switch drag links. ?

 

[Rusty PW]

I'm aware of this and have the track bar relocation bracket ready to go if and when I do switch drag links. ?

If you move the driver's side drag link. You have to the track bar on the driver's side to keep them parallel. You can't move side of the drag link and the opposite side of the track bar. That just compounds the problem.

 

[Pescatoral Pursuit]

If you move the driver's side drag link. You have to the track bar on the driver's side to keep them parallel. You can't move side of the drag link and the opposite side of the track bar. That just compounds the problem.

I'm not sure I agree with this.
It shouldn't matter as long as the two bars are parallel, no?

 

[Rusty PW]

I'm not sure I agree with this.
It shouldn't matter as long as the two bars are parallel, no?

Yea....the bars have to be parallel. I was getting myself confused. If you drop the drag link at the pitman arm. You have to drop the track bar on the same side, or raise the opposite end.

If you flip the drag link on the knuckle. You have to raise the track bar on that side. Or lower it on the opposite side.

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