Diff Bolts

[Dougstdig]

I’m doing a diff service and installing teraflex covers on both axles. Took off the front cover and saw some of what appears to be red crumbs in the the bolt threads. Are we supposed to use thread locker on these bolts? I definitely wouldn’t use red and have a new bottle of blue, but thought I’d ask before I installed the new covers.

Yesterday I ground down several bolt heads from bolts I picked up so I could use them as dowels/guides for the heavy Teraflex covers. After prepping the diff mounting surface, I attempted to hand thread these into a couple of the holes and they didn’t get any further than a couple of twists in. I backed them out and attempted to hand thread the new cap head bolts and same result. I compared the threads on the stock bolts, new bolts and my dowels…all the same. Is it possible the holes are caked with thread locker and this is what’s giving me the resistance? I purchased off the lot new and the covers have never been off. I just don’t want to bugger up the threads…and I’m 50 miles from home in a buddy’s shop, who won’t be back until late Sunday, so I’m kinda stranded.

Also, I called @TeraFlex, apparently someone said they could take the Friday after Thanksgiving off so no answer.

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[Mays9185]

Looks like red silicon, red thread locker would of need a large impact or torch to remove. I had same in mine just blow them out and move on.

 

[kevman65]

First, we don't know if Jeep uses Loctite or another brand of thread locker.
Different brands, different colors for holding strength.
Also, just to confuse things even more, Loctite has thread locker for consumer use and thread locker for commercial use, and thread locker for industrial use.

Just so you know, red is NOT the worst out there.

Now to your dilemma, yes there could be residual whatever still in your threads. You can use compressed air to blow in the holes, run an old bolt in and out and blow out again.

If the hole is open all the way through, use a light and see if you can see what's in the hole.

As to no one answering the phone today, a lot of places give today as observed Veterans Day for a holiday and a four day weekend. I'm sure the retail sales phones were manned.

 

[Dougstdig]

First, we don't know if Jeep uses Loctite or another brand of thread locker.
Different brands, different colors for holding strength.
Also, just to confuse things even more, Loctite has thread locker for consumer use and thread locker for commercial use, and thread locker for industrial use.

Just so you know, red is NOT the worst out there.

Now to your dilemma, yes there could be residual whatever still in your threads. You can use compressed air to blow in the holes, run an old bolt in and out and blow out again.

If the hole is open all the way through, use a light and see if you can see what's in the hole.

As to no one answering the phone today, a lot of places give today as observed Veterans Day for a holiday and a four day weekend. I'm sure the retail sales phones were manned.

I blew and chased the threads. Still a bit tougher than I thought it should have been. I read a post about a week ago where someone said they sent out bolts with an incorrect thread pitch and I was like ?. I’ve had way too many things go wrong over the last 2 days, had to repurchase tools I thought I had, but were being borrowed and found the down side of getting Amsoil in a bag. Luckily I got 4 bags…and yes…a big mess, but at least it doesn’t smell like regular gear oil. Now, I’m only going to have time to get the front done. At least I see the light at the end of the tunnel. Maybe I’ll be able to get to the rear by the end of the year.

 

[kevman65]

Well, I can't tell thread pitch just by pictures, but they look the same. At least you don't have fine and coarse. What you can do is take one of each bolt to a hardware store and see if the same nut threads on both of them easily. It is possible for one to be metric and the other SAE. For reference, 6mm and 1/4" look almost identical but will not thread into each other very far.

 

[Rusty PW]

Put your bolts into the diff cover that you have off and see how much is sticking out the other side. You need at least a 1/4" sticking out. Chances are that you got bolts that are too short with the new covers. I've seen it happen before.

To clean the bolt holes out. Use an ice pick and dig into the holes to see if anything comes out. Then use a tap to chase the threads. then use compressed air to blow the holes out.

 

[Dougstdig]

Well, I can't tell thread pitch just by pictures, but they look the same. At least you don't have fine and coarse. What you can do is take one of each bolt to a hardware store and see if the same nut threads on both of them easily. It is possible for one to be metric and the other SAE. For reference, 6mm and 1/4" look almost identical but will not thread into each other very far.

I did that with the bolts I used as dowel pins after grinding the heads off. I laid the bolts new, dowel and the ones that came out and they’re all the same.

I just put a bead on the cover, hang it on the dowel bolts, put a dab of blue on the new ones and twisted them right in hand tight. The hour wait begins so I can torque them up. I’m supposed to wait 24hrs before fully cured, but I’m too far from home. I may wait 5-6 hrs then the juice is going in.

 

[Dougstdig]

Put your bolts into the diff cover that you have off and see how much is sticking out the other side. You need at least a 1/4" sticking out. Chances are that you got bolts that are too short with the new covers. I've seen it happen before.

To clean the bolt holes out. Use an ice pick and dig into the holes to see if anything comes out. Then use a tap to chase the threads. then use compressed air to blow the holes out.

Unfortunately, I’m in my buddy’s shop…where we’ve kinda mixed our tools together and he’s out at a bog for the weekend…and took the whole freakin rolling tool chest…lol. I have a separate tool chest in my bed and while it’s pretty thorough, no pics. As I type that I realized I have stainless and poly pics in about 4 pew-pew cleaning kits not 10 yards from me…lmao.

As far as depth goes, I think I’m good. The bottom bolts are sucked in a lot further as it’s quite a bit thicker. As far as I threaded all of them in, I’m confident they’re deep. I’ll tell you, Hootbro was spot on with recommending making the dowel pins. The covers are heavy and with a bum shoulder I don’t quite know how I would have done it without them…especially without jacking the RTV bead. Also, jacking up the driver side lifted the track bar up out of the way.

 

[Dougstdig]

Unfortunately, I’m in my buddy’s shop…where we’ve kinda mixed our tools together and he’s out at a bog for the weekend…and took the whole freakin rolling tool chest…lol. I have a separate tool chest in my bed and while it’s pretty thorough, no pics. As I type that I realized I have stainless and poly pics in about 4 pew-pew cleaning kits not 10 yards from me…lmao.

As far as depth goes, I think I’m good. The bottom bolts are sucked in a lot further as it’s quite a bit thicker. As far as I threaded all of them in, I’m confident they’re deep. I’ll tell you, Hootbro was spot on with recommending making the dowel pins. The covers are heavy and with a bum shoulder I don’t quite know how I would have done it without them…especially without jacking the RTV bead. Also, jacking up the driver side lifted the track bar up out of the way.

View attachment 346602

 

[rharr]

Hose out the holes with brake cleaner and reuse the oem gaskets, and don't bother with rtv. Use a ratch and slowly tighten feeling for bind.

 

[Dougstdig]

Hose out the holes with brake cleaner and reuse the oem gaskets, and don't bother with rtv. Use a ratch and slowly tighten feeling for bind.

OEM gasket won’t work with the Teraflex cover.

 

[rharr]

OEM gasket won’t work with the Teraflex cover.

Odd, the oem worked just fine on my metal cloak covers. Mating surfaces can't really be changed much from a design standpoint otherwise they just won't seal.

Not a Mc cover but basically the same seal/mating surface

 

[Hootbro]

Odd, the oem worked just fine on my metal cloak covers. Mating surfaces can't really be changed much from a design standpoint otherwise they just won't seal.

If you look at #4 on the diagram the OP posted for the Teraflex cover, there is a set/release screw and hole for it that is right in the middle of the path a factory gasket would be.

I have the same covers and tried the factory gaskets and eventually had a leak. Even tried RTV skimming the set screw and hole and still had a leak with the factory gaskets. Leak stopped once I went all RTV as Teraflex recommends.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

If you look at #4 on the diagram the OP posted for the Teraflex cover, there is a set/release screw and hole for it that is right in the middle of the path a factory gasket would be.

I have the same covers and tried the factory gaskets and eventually had a leak. Even tried RTV skimming the set screw and hole and still had a leak with the factory gaskets. Leak stopped once I went all RTV as Teraflex recommends.

Did your cover fit flat? Sounds like his "rocks" a bit when put on the housing.

 

[rharr]

What is the purpose of the set screw?

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