So let’s talk about driveshaft spacers

[WILDHOBO]

This is a solid point as well. The drive shaft angle isnt just the carrier. Its also the dif angle that’s effected by the control arms. ??

Those cv driveshafts can easily handle a 2 or 2.5” lift without the pinion angle being bad enough to be a problem, especially with a carrier bearing spacer.

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[WILDHOBO]

Go to the dealer crawl under a stock gladiator. find the angle of the drive shaft before and after the carrier. Now unbolt your carrier and drop it down till you get the same angle as stock... then measure how big of a spacer you need. this would be the most effective way to get proper spacer.

Way too complicated imo. Just buy the Dana spacer that’s good for 2-6” lifts. You don’t need to be worried about it as much as with u joints. It just shouldn’t be overly severe.

 

[WILDHOBO]

Install the spacer with supplied bolts, 25 ft lbs of torque and blue loctite.

 

[Rusty PW]

I have about 4" of lift. I went with the Rock Jock spacer.

 

[WILDHOBO]

The first picture is bad, then after the spacer, a little less bad. This was a 4.5” lift, and a long time ago before putting in a heavy duty Dana driveshaft and adjustable control arms. But this shaft never failed. I still use it for a trail spare.

 

[WILDHOBO]

I have about 4" of lift. I went with the Rock Jock spacer.

I think the rock jock is the same size as the Dana version. Potato potato.

 

[Gren71]

I think the rock jock is the same size as the Dana version. Potato potato.

 

[Dickster]

Way too complicated imo. Just buy the Dana spacer that’s good for 2-6” lifts. You don’t need to be worried about it as much as with u joints. It just shouldn’t be overly severe.

not too complicated at all. if the dealer is giving him crap for it being wrong this would be the only way to shut them up is to copy oem angle. Most full lift kits will come with the spacer that is needed per lift, but in his case it did not. when doing custom work to vehicles there is not really a one item that fits all i have found. there is enough variables from each vehicle to cause small issues. the idea i said would nail it down 100% what is needed and not just buy a part and hoping it works. yes there is a tolerance on what it can be and one part could work just fine but still a chance for error or it not working.

 

[JTGuy]

I have the Mopar 2 inch lift and I installed Synergy adjustable rear control arms to correct the pinion angle. Raised the front of the diff a little. Probably not needed but corrected my OCD for a day.

 

[CrazyCooter]

Those cv driveshafts can easily handle a 2 or 2.5” lift without the pinion angle being bad enough to be a problem, especially with a carrier bearing spacer.

This actually depends on rear shock length. A 30+" rear shock with stock length arms on a 2-3" lift will have the joint at the axle binding at full droop due to the screwy suspension geometry. This is why I installed the correction brackets on the rear axle.

A carrier bearing spacer might help, but its not really the correct solution.When a traditional Cardan joint is used, a carrier spacer actually puts the angles out of spec despite almost all lift kit manufacturers using them. I have yet to see any documentation about proper angles to set up an Rzeppa joint equipped driveline. Rzeppas are much more resistant to vibrations since they have 6 pivots vs the Cardan's 4 points, so there wouldn't be any warning that things are out of whack?

 

[WILDHOBO]

not too complicated at all. if the dealer is giving him crap for it being wrong this would be the only way to shut them up is to copy oem angle. Most full lift kits will come with the spacer that is needed per lift, but in his case it did not. when doing custom work to vehicles there is not really a one item that fits all i have found. there is enough variables from each vehicle to cause small issues. the idea i said would nail it down 100% what is needed and not just buy a part and hoping it works. yes there is a tolerance on what it can be and one part could work just fine but still a chance for error or it not working.

Not in this case. I’m general. Yes. But in this case, any spacer around an inch will work. Trust me. Or don’t, but I’m not wrong.

 

[WILDHOBO]

This actually depends on rear shock length. A 30+" rear shock with stock length arms on a 2-3" lift will have the joint at the axle binding at full droop due to the screwy suspension geometry. This is why I installed the correction brackets on the rear axle.

A carrier bearing spacer might help, but its not really the correct solution.When a traditional Cardan joint is used, a carrier spacer actually puts the angles out of spec despite almost all lift kit manufacturers using them. I have yet to see any documentation about proper angles to set up an Rzeppa jpint equipped driveline. Rzeppas are much more resistant to vibrations since they have 6 pivots vs the Cardan's 4 points, so there wouldn't be any warning that things are out of whack?

Shocks don’t cause or correct pinion angle. At all. If you’d like a good suggestion, check with the manufacturer or your axles and driveshaft. Dana Spicer. They sell a spacer that is rated for 2” and up. No different sizes when you go higher. When you get higher than around 4”, it’s time for adjustable control arms.

 

[CrazyCooter]

Shocks don’t cause or correct pinion angle. At all. If you’d like a good suggestion, check with the manufacturer or your axles and driveshaft. Dana Spicer. They sell a spacer that is rated for 2” and up. No different sizes when you go higher. When you get higher than around 4”, it’s time for adjustable control arms.

The longer shocks allow/control suspension droop, so they absolutely cause the pinion to bind with stock suspension geometry.

I suggest you actually check how much the pinion angle changes throughout the range of suspension travel so that you have a better understanding before you spew your misinformation?

 

[WILDHOBO]

The longer shocks allow/control suspension droop, so they absolutely cause the pinion to bind with stock suspension geometry.

I suggest you actually check how much the pinion angle changes throughout the range of suspension travel so that you have a better understanding before you spew your misinformation?

I’m well aware of exactly how much travel I have. I’ve cycled it from top to bottom on all four corners as recently as this week. Last week I checked up and down travel without shocks or swaybar connected during a hydraulic bump stop install. The angle of the pinion at full droop during off roading is all but a non issue. The speeds are SO slow that cv or u joints are fine for that momentary angle. The reason for carrier bearing spacers and proper pinion angle for your driveshaft (there’s a huge difference depending on cv, cardan or double cardan) is for high speed driveshaft rotation to prevent joint and pinion failures over time. Vibrations are a sign that this COULD be happening. Why don’t you not assume that I don’t know what I’m talking about. It’s easy to spout recommendations with no knowledge, or third party information. I’ve actually done this repeatedly. All eight control arms have been swapped three times in 30k miles. And I’ve replaced my driveshaft once for one rated for higher lifts, and twice when I needed that rebuilt after a bad trail hit. I’m quite aware of the geometry.

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