Synergy front springs 8863-10 question/ BUMP STOPS

[poopsleeve]

My first JT and suspension mod...
I think I'm reading this correctly.
I do not require additional bump stops to use these springs? No additional spacer , keeping some rake.
If I do NEED ADDITIONAL BUMP STOPS , I want to get them ordered before my springs come in.
Synergy is closed and I'm curios.
Can anyone chime in ?

Ty

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[poopsleeve]

These are the 1" lift.

 

[OHJeeper]

I believe what it's saying is that you need a 2" bump stop for any of those springs. But, for the -10 you can safely add up to 3/4 spring spacer (like a leveling kit) without needing more than the 2".

 

[Hootbro]

I run these exact springs on my JT to compensate for my bumper and winch setup. I run the Falcon 2.1 series monotube shocks rated for 0"-1.5 lift. There was rare occasions going over washboard road or railroad tracks at speed that I could hear my shock hitting the top internally on the upstroke. Added some 2" bump stop spacers and got rid of that.

 

[kevman65]

2" minimum bump stop, with a spacer over 3/4" then you have to add more bump stop.

General rule is, for each inch you raise, you add an inch of bump stop.
Synergy goes a little extra.

I bought their front bump stop kit, putting in a 3" lift, will be going 3" of bump stop.

 

[poopsleeve]

2" minimum bump stop, with a spacer over 3/4" then you have to add more bump stop.

General rule is, for each inch you raise, you add an inch of bump stop.
Synergy goes a little extra.

I bought their front bump stop kit, putting in a 3" lift, will be going 3" of bump stop.

Ok I'll order 2" stops cause I'm keeping some rake.
I found 1 set of springs FASS and purchased them. Nobody has them right now.
Stock rubicon shocks have enough travel ? I didn't even think of that only going 1" until Hootbro mentioned it.
Appreciate the help guys

 

[poopsleeve]

Let's put this to bed .


(2) Synergy 1" JTR springs SYN 8863-10
(2) FOX 2.0 IFP 2-3" LIFT ,FOX 985-24-177
(1) SYNERGY snaplock 2-4" bump stops

Stayed with FOX , same as rears

This should satisfy my likes.

The bump stops are required.


Poop

 

[ShadowsPapa]

I'm running the 20s without bumpstop changes, but I don't go off-road with it.
Bump stops don't stop the drop of the axle, they stop the rise of the axle.
Since I don't go over dunes or drive like Bo and Luke, I've been fine with mine for over a year.
The 1" (10s) springs don't give a full 1" if you have a lot of accessories. My steel bumper and winch meant I didn't see nearly 1".
I'm running the 2" springs (-20) and have about 1 1/4" now.

There was rare occasions going over washboard road or railroad tracks at speed that I could hear my shock hitting the top internally on the upstroke. Added some 2" bump stop spacers and got rid of that.

Question - since bump stops prevent the truck from coming down on the axle, or the axle rising up too far (binding the spring, etc.) how would a bump stop prevent you from hitting the top end, or full extension, on a shock?
Stops prevent smashing down after coming over a bump, they don't stop the axle from dropping down if you fly over a hill - the shocks will prevent too much axle drop.
Never understood how a bump stop could prevent yo from topping out.
Always figured they were to prevent coil binding, or full collapse of the spring as the truck came down hard against the spring, fully compressing it.

 

[poopsleeve]

Shock travel. Or I'm missing what your saying.
When I add 1" of spring height ( supposedly, I hope) that moves the range of shaft uses inside the shock.
Get me, am I on the right track?
I believe so , please correct me if wrong

 

[ShadowsPapa]

Shock travel. Or I'm missing what your saying.
When I add 1" of spring height ( supposedly, I hope) that moves the range of shaft uses inside the shock.
Get me, am I on the right track?
I believe so , please correct me if wrong

Putting in taller springs raised the truck from the axle, extending the shock. So hitting a big bump that jounces the truck up, the taller or stiffer spring is more likely to push the truck up farther, hitting the top end of the shock travel - fully extended.
Bump stops are for when the truck comes down hard after jumping over a ramp like Dukes of Hazard did.
If you get bounced upward, the shock can "over-extend" reaching full extension, and hard, due to longer/stiffer springs.
I fail to see how that bump stop that prevents the truck from BOTTOMING out will prevent a shock from over-extending.
Every vehicle has a bump stop - even with leaf springs, to prevent the chassis from smacking down hard on the axle - but it won't prevent the body/chassis from flying up.

Here's the bump stop for a 1970 Javelin (bottom piece with the black poly wedge). If the car hits a bump and goes down hard, that part hits the lower control arm, preventing a hard and harsh bottoming out - but won't do squat for a bit jump and the suspension dropping.

And the bump stop for the rear - that piece will smack - softly because it's rubber - against the axle tube should you hit a pavement dip too hard or take a flying jump off something and come down hard. Prevents smashing of steel against steel, softens the blow or landing just a bit, just like the front ones do - it softens the blow - but makes zero difference if you jack the car up.

Bump stops prevent up-travel of the suspension, axle, etc. but don't stop down-travel.
They set how far an axle can move up, and soften the blow when you come down hard. That's why Mojave has the hydraulic bump stops they do - to soften the landing after jumping over a dune. Instead of smashing down hard and harsh, steel against steel, they stop it before bottom and let it down softly.

So can someone explain how a rubber cushy piece that prevents banging down hard after a jump or pavement dip will prevent up-travel?

In my case, no harsh use, I didn't add the stop spacers as I won't be bottoming this thing out and the net lift is only around 1". Yeah, if I take a jump and come back down hard, I'll get into coil bind where the spring may be fully collapsed, resulting in a heck of a bang and sudden stop, but I'm taking that chance since I don't take this off-road where I'd be doing that sort of thing.

 

[Hootbro]

Question - since bump stops prevent the truck from coming down on the axle, or the axle rising up too far (binding the spring, etc.) how would a bump stop prevent you from hitting the top end, or full extension, on a shock?

On hard compressions of the front end, I can hear the shock internal diaphragms' or pistons hitting the internal top of the shock. Adding bump stops eliminated it by reducing the shock stroke travel from the now limited spring compression travel of having the bump stop.

 

[kevman65]

The bump stops protect your shocks from slamming all the way down.

They also prevent coil bind.

But the most important function is protecting the shocks.

 

[kevman65]

OP, factory shocks should be okay with just the + 1" springs.
If you add a 3/4" spacer, then you probably want to get shock extensions.

 

[dayusmc]

I thought bump stops protect against coil bind and/or the tire hitting if you put a larger tire on.

The shock should not bottom out UNLESS you are using shock extensions.

If you just raise the front end up with the stock shocks and same size tire, you will coil bind the spring before you bottom the shock out. Basically it depends on the collapsed length of the shicks you are running.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

The bump stops protect your shocks from slamming all the way down.

They also prevent coil bind.

But the most important function is protecting the shocks.

That's assuming you have installed shock extensions. Since I have not, there's no way my shocks can bottom out.

Put it this way, if your shocks bottom out with taller/stiffer springs, then they really bottomoned out more frequently and harder with the stock springs.
You can't lift the truck and then have shocks bottom out unless you installed extensions.
Coil bind, maybe, but not shock bottoming. The taller springs would prevent using the last part of the shock's compression stroke.
If you installed shock extensions, then yes, but even then, if they didn't bottom out with stock springs, and the truck is now 1" higher, with 1" extensions, they should not bottom out.

I thought bump stops protect against coil bind and/or the tire hitting if you put a larger tire on.

The shock should not bottom out UNLESS you are using shock extensions.

If you just raise the front end up with the stock shocks and same size tire, you will coil bind the spring before you bottom the shock out. Basically it depends on the collapsed length of the shicks you are running.

Exactly. I will never bottom out my shocks because I did not before the spring swap, and I did not use extensions. With stock tire size, I won't worry about tire rub.
I MIGHT bind the coils - but that would take a really really hard hit and even with the plow on hitting pavement dips and driveway dips, it's not happened.
Coil binding would be the issue if you don't extend the bump stop or put a taller piece for the stock bump stop to hit on the top of the axle - which is what the Synergy pieces are. Stock bump stops, you just raise the place for them to hit on.
With a roughly 1-1.5' lift tops on mine, I figured a 2" spacer for the bump stop to hit would be a bit much. if I had done a 2" lift, then I'd look more strongly at putting those in because Synergy springs have a lot more coils and even though they say they test them to the point of binding with no problem, still not a great thing to rely on the spring coils smacking each other to stop the downward movement of the truck toward the axle.

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