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Metalcloak Game Changer 3.5" Lift questions

Jteakus

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The rear track bar relocation bracket is worth the time and money, I added it to my 3.5" after the kit had been on for a year and it made the handling considerably better.
 
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whysoserious

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Good info! Do the metalcloak joints require maintenance?
They do not, the control arms or the track bars. I'm on my second MC lift. First was on my 2017 JKUR. Both on and offroad ride quality was great. Have a 3.5" on my 2021 JTM. Rides very well on and offroad. On road is as good or better than stock. I have a 2006 Rubicon with a 2.5 RK. One of the harshest riding suspensions I've ever felt. Additionally, my 2017 JKUR was sold to a friend about three years ago and between the two of us it has seen a lot of harsh road driving in varying elements; the gold zinc is not showing any signs of rust.

There are a lot of members on here that run Clayton and love their lifts. And don't forget about EVO (I think more on the pricy side).

Suspensions are quite subjective. It is a rather large investment as well. Perhaps find some locals with various lifts and see if you can hitch a ride and see how they feel. Where in Texas?
 
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tysongladiator

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These are only my experiences and opinions!!!

1. I have the 3.5" GC. I have Bilsteins 5100. I had them before the MC lift so I'm continuing to use the until I need to change.

2. As far as endlinks, I'm actually using a set I found online from a parts builder for a JK. No bushings to wear out. I had rubicon express for about 3yrs with no issues. Changed over to JKS and the bushings lasted not even 6 months.

3. I'm using the MC driveshaft for the front. I haven't changed my rear yet. Before I get a TW or Adams, I am going to check with local offroad and hotrod driveshaft builders. I mean... they build and balance driveshafts for 1000+ horsepower vehicles. That way if I have an issue, it's easier for repairs.

4. When I had my mopar lift, I had the stock track bar and it cleared with no issues. But when I went up to the GC 3.5", I had to go to an adjustable. I originally had a Yeti and it did not clear my 37s. Like everyone else, I went with the Clayton and it's been all good.
 

Zachanadandy

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Also, it appears that you can get 15% off rockkrawler right now through Northridge. Thats an absolute no brainer imo

https://www.northridge4x4.com/brand/rock-krawler
Father's day sale at metalcloak, 10% off and free shipping. Comes down to personal preference at that point in my opinion. Just because 2 rigs have similar lift heights and tires I wouldn't call it a direct comparison unless I saw an alignment sheet, weight, and tire pressure for each. Otherwise it's still apples and oranges in my opinion. We run metalcloak 3.5" springs, fox 2.0s, and rubicon express front lcas on our JLUR. Yeti flipped drag link and raised front track bar bracket, mc front drop brackets, and icon front sway bar end links. Rides, drives, and handles better than it did stock on road (the xrs really need more caster at a minium from the factory) on 39's. Most will never get into the 3rd/4th section of the spring rate aside from low speed, high articulated crawling at which point you won't even notice the difference. Sure if you're out jumping your mojave you'll actually use them, but most won't.
 

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TheSolarWizard

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Father's day sale at metalcloak, 10% off and free shipping. Comes down to personal preference at that point in my opinion. Just because 2 rigs have similar lift heights and tires I wouldn't call it a direct comparison unless I saw an alignment sheet, weight, and tire pressure for each. Otherwise it's still apples and oranges in my opinion. We run metalcloak 3.5" springs, fox 2.0s, and rubicon express front lcas on our JLUR. Yeti flipped drag link and raised front track bar bracket, mc front drop brackets, and icon front sway bar end links. Rides, drives, and handles better than it did stock on road (the xrs really need more caster at a minium from the factory) on 39's. Most will never get into the 3rd/4th section of the spring rate aside from low speed, high articulated crawling at which point you won't even notice the difference. Sure if you're out jumping your mojave you'll actually use them, but most won't.
Northridge has free shipping over $500 always. Ive spent an outrageous amount of time in other jeeps.

You won’t find one person that switched from MC to RK and regrets it. Ever.

here are the head to head comparisons that I know to be true.

Adventure X has triple rate and not dual rate coils
coil specific applications
much stronger components
Adventure Joints are superior to Duroflex joints in every way.
Vehicle lean correction
coil bow correction front and rear
rear roll center improvement.

Find one tiny error in this stack of RK advantages and ill drop it.
 
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Zachanadandy

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Northridge has free shipping over $500 always. Ive spent an outrageous amount of time in other jeeps.

You won’t find one person that switched from MC to RK and regrets it. Ever.
You definitely won't find one that admits spending $3k+, and then spending another $3k+ to end about about the same.... yes I've run both on personal rigs. Between the wife and I we are on Jeep #14 over the years. Shocks and geometry make far more difference in ride quality than springs or joints ever could in my experience (assuming you didn't but garbage, off brand, dump truck high spring rate springs). The joints and even springs make very little difference on or off road when comparing 2 quality manufacturers. Both kits are available without shocks. I'd be willing to bet if you set up the alignment and tire pressure identically with the same shocks on the same Jeep or at least one that weighed the same you couldn't tell a difference in ride.
 

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here are the head to head comparisons that I know to be true.

Adventure X has triple rate and not dual rate coils
coil specific applications
much stronger components
Adventure Joints are superior to Duroflex joints in every way.
Vehicle lean correction
coil bow correction front and rear
rear roll center improvement.

Find one tiny error in this stack of RK advantages and ill drop it.
 

ColoradoCantu

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Since you plan on rock crawling and need new end links, I would go ahead and get manual sway bar disconnects. I got Rubicon Express with my Dobinson MRR adjustable shocks and springs. Metalcloak makes a front swaybar disconnect that is compatible with the passenger side endlink design of the gladiators that allows you to disconnect the link from the bottom without having to cut one of the two brackets used to connect the bottom of the OEM endlink, they didnt fit my 3 in lift so I had to cut that bracket. I also went with Metalcloak f/r controls arms, Metalcloak f/r Trackbars, rear track bar fits a 37 and Metalcloak/Fox steering stabilizer. Ive only had my lift for a little over a month so haven't taken it out too many times yet, trail season doesnt really open up till July here Co but have some and the Mojave handles awesome on pavement with my heavy set up and the trails I have done, it handled the rock gardens great. So +1 for Metalcloak, you can't go wrong with RK, Claton or MC, personally I think the zinc coating looks cool. Good Luck!

JL Wrangler | JT Gladiator Front Sway Bar Quick Disconnect (metalcloak.com)
 
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Mike9865

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Since you plan on rock crawling and need new end links, I would go ahead and get manual sway bar disconnects. I got Rubicon Express with my Dobinson MRR adjustable shocks and springs. Metalcloak makes a front swaybar disconnect that is compatible with the passenger side endlink design of the gladiators that allows you to disconnect the link from the bottom without having to cut one of the two brackets used to connect the bottom of the OEM endlink, they didnt fit my 3 in lift so I had to cut that bracket. I also went with Metalcloak f/r controls arms, Metalcloak f/r Trackbars, rear track bar fits a 37 and Metalcloak/Fox steering stabilizer. Ive only had my lift for a little over a month so haven't taken it out too many times yet, trail season doesnt really open up till July here Co but have some and the Mojave handles awesome on pavement with my heavy set up and the trails I have done, it handled the rock gardens great. So +1 for Metalcloak, you can't go wrong with RK, Claton or MC, personally I think the zinc coating looks cool. Good Luck!

JL Wrangler | JT Gladiator Front Sway Bar Quick Disconnect (metalcloak.com)
I assume I don't need this if I have the electronic sway bar disconnect?
 

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Mike9865

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Looks like Northridge has a nice sale on Method wheels. Going to order those as well. Should I get the 8.5 0 offset or 9.0 -12 offset if I intend on running 37" tires?
 

Zachanadandy

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here are the head to head comparisons that I know to be true.

Adventure X has triple rate and not dual rate coils
coil specific applications
much stronger components
Adventure Joints are superior to Duroflex joints in every way.
Vehicle lean correction
coil bow correction front and rear
rear roll center improvement.

Find one tiny error in this stack of RK advantages and ill drop it.
Again triple rate is only an advantage of you're cycling through all 3 rates at speed and very few will ever do that.

MC uses different spacers to make up for various trim/motors to equalize ride heights. A much more cost effective route which is probably why they are cheaper.

Stronger components verified how? Have you done bend tests? Shear tests? Do they need to be stronger as I've never seen a mc bracket or arm fall? So they are heavier for no reason?

I'd argue the duroflex is better at isolating road vibrations

The lean correction is handled by the isolator on a mc lift.

Coil bow correction is handled up front with mc, I've never had issues with rear coil bow.

Sure the $100 bracket does help with roll center, but they use that to avoid including an adjustable rear track bar. I'd rather buy and add the $100 bracket as the op will still need a new bar to clear the 37" spare vs buying a $300 track bar.

Your preference is obvious, both are quality kits, but in my experience a lot of your advantages are made up/personal preference.

Now if you step up to the pro-x kit that includes the triangulated 4 link rear and eliminates the rear track bar all together then absolutely rock krawler for the win. At that price though you could go mc long arm 4 link and in my experience long arms will ride and flex much better than mid arms. My JTM is still riding on the AEV 2" spacer kit that I installed at 1100 miles. I'm adding mc sway bar disconnects up front, the RK rear pro-x, teraflex long travel brake lines/breather hose/ abs wires kit right now. Eventually I'll add front long arms and probably fox 2.5" elites from accutune. I'll probably change springs at that point as well. There's no wrong answer and none of this is one size fits all in my experience.
 
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whysoserious

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