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Brake Issue?

PuddleJumper

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So I have a stock Rubicon and A modified Mojave. The Rubicon has tight brakes, 1/2 of stroke and then they grab, very progressive and strong. Mojave not so much. I originally thought it was just the weight of my 37s diminishing the overall brake feel. I put everything on my Mojave back to stock and it still has no brake bite. you have to get the petal almost 2/3rds down before it catches or pump it half and then it feels stiff like it should. I'm assuming i have warped rotors and this is causing pad knock back? My brakes don't squeal or make any other noises, and there is no harsh vibration in the pedal or steering feel. Thoughts? Vacuum booster is good, Pads still have 70 percent, rotors look immaculate.
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Warped rotors would make your brake pedal kinda pulsate or vibrate so it shouldn't be that. I'd recommend the cheapest option of just bleeding your brakes to start. Your symptoms lead me to think you got air in your system.
 

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How old is your truck? Still under warranty?
If you're not under warranty, the first thing you need to do (as everyone has mentioned) is bleed the brakes with fresh fluids and go from there.
 
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How old is your truck? Still under warranty?
If you're not under warranty, the first thing you need to do (as everyone has mentioned) is bleed the brakes with fresh fluids and go from there.
its under warranty
 

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PuddleJumper

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Warped rotors would make your brake pedal kinda pulsate or vibrate so it shouldn't be that. I'd recommend the cheapest option of just bleeding your brakes to start. Your symptoms lead me to think you got air in your system.
where did the air come from? Its been untouched from the factory
 
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Probably need a brake bleed AND an ABS brake bleed.
Can air just develop in line over time? My brakes have never been touched and i only have 28k odo.
 

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where did the air come from? Its been untouched from the factory
I said air but I should of said water. Basically something that isn't brake fluid due the powers of brake fluid being hygroscopic. Brake fluid degrades over time just absorbing moisture through whatever it can
 
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I said air but I should of said water. Basically something that isn't brake fluid due the powers of brake fluid being hygroscopic. Brake fluid degrades over time just absorbing moisture through whatever it can
I test the fluid every oil change. Its still comes up damn near new, minimal contamination. I'm worried I'll make it worse changing the fluid out? In the sense I'm more likely to introduce air into the system if i open it. Can water get in from water crossings? I do a lot of those.
 

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I got 40,000 miles on my '22 Rubi. Last Sunday I bled the brakes because of low and mushy pedal. This devolved over time. I use a clear piece of tubing on the bleeder so that i can see the fluid coming out. I had air bubbles come out of the LR and LF calipers. The pedal came up some. But I'm still not happy with it. Next time I will bleed the brakes with the ABS active.
 

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I got 40,000 miles on my '22 Rubi. Last Sunday I bled the brakes because of low and mushy pedal. This devolved over time. I use a clear piece of tubing on the bleeder so that i can see the fluid coming out. I had air bubbles come out of the LR and LF calipers. The pedal came up some. But I'm still not happy with it. Next time I will bleed the brakes with the ABS active.
Ok so you developed the same issue. Thanks I give it a go
 

willys 41

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So I have a stock Rubicon and A modified Mojave. The Rubicon has tight brakes, 1/2 of stroke and then they grab, very progressive and strong. Mojave not so much. I originally thought it was just the weight of my 37s diminishing the overall brake feel. I put everything on my Mojave back to stock and it still has no brake bite. you have to get the petal almost 2/3rds down before it catches or pump it half and then it feels stiff like it should. I'm assuming i have warped rotors and this is causing pad knock back? My brakes don't squeal or make any other noises, and there is no harsh vibration in the pedal or steering feel. Thoughts? Vacuum booster is good, Pads still have 70 percent, rotors look immaculate.
I had the same problem and the dealer told me it was normal.
I told them it is not normal and as I walked out I told them I will fix it my self.
There was air trapped in the ABS system and a normal bleed would not remove the air.
After and ABS bleed back to normal and the brakes work great.
Here is a video that helped me solve the problem.
 
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PuddleJumper

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I had the same problem and the dealer told me it was normal.
I told them it is not normal and as I walked out I told them I will fix it my self.
There was air trapped in the ABS system and a normal bleed would not remove the air.
After and ABS bleed back to normal and the brakes work great.
Here is a video that helped me solve the problem.
Gotcha. I’ll just cheat and lock em up a couple times to get bubbles further down the line and then do a normal bleed
 

willys 41

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Gotcha. I’ll just cheat and lock em up a couple times to get bubbles further down the line and then do a normal bleed
That's kinda How I got the air in the system.
I was out wheeling for the first time in my new Willys and it went into traction control meaning the ABS was locking one wheel so the other would get traction.
After watching the video however very skeptical that any brakes system would induce air into a system I decided to purchase a scanner and give it a try.
After the ABS bleed with the scanner brakes back to like the day I bought it.
 
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PuddleJumper

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That's kinda How I got the air in the system.
I was out wheeling for the first time in my new Willys and it went into traction control meaning the ABS was locking one wheel so the other would get traction.
After watching the video however very skeptical that any brakes system would induce air into a system I decided to purchase a scanner and give it a try.
After the ABS bleed with the scanner brakes back to like the day I bought it.
I have a scanner and security bypass. I might as well do it right.
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