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What are these 4 wires that go to the tailgate brakelight?

ParatusExpeditions

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ParatusExpeditions

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Planning on using their remote or the tailgate lock signal wire?
I'd like to interface to that lock wire, just haven't checked what's the output of it and if it's compatible with those. Since they're actuators I think it'll work as they rest at 0V.
 

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Planning to use the tailgate lock wires, but I have their control box too if I need it. I don’t want to carry another remote, even though they’re small. And so far no luck with using the “learning” function to copy the stock remote
 

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fourfa

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Hm, forum software breaks when attaching video, couldn't add text above. That's the simplest possible setup, actuator directly wired to the tailgate power lock signal. Looks like it works great. Following the wiring diagram, power locks are on F28, fused at 40A. Vendor says these miniature pin actuators pull 675 mA each when moving, so 4x = an additional 2.7 A. But we've gone from 5 stock power lock modules to 4... I'm going to continue testing 1, 2, 3, then 4 modules on the stock circuit and see what the multimeter says about current draw, and voltage on the line. If there's any sign of trouble I'll insert a relay, but for simplicity I'd love it if it just works directly

I hear you about the rear door, I have a lot of notes about possible DIY solutions for that. I don't see why a generic $7 linear door lock actuator won't work with a simple pin latch
 

ParatusExpeditions

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Looks like we're aligned on this (rear door & actuator on original circuit).
Thanks for reporting!
Relay should be easy to do as well (and maybe needed with the 5th for the rear door?) if one has a battery in the back or tap onto a stronger circuit like maybe the trailer plug?
 

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I have my camper power set up on one of the aux circuits, which I don't want to leave hot all the time. I looked at wiring to the trailer plug in the beginning, but on my truck it seemed to only be hot with ignition on. Eventually I'll probably wire up a proper electrical panel, with hot power, switched AUX power, master switches for interior lights and chargers, solar, house battery etc.

Done - sorry for all the OT here
 

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I got an Alu-Cab canopy and I want to connect the canopy brake light to this light.

This is under the bed near the rear bumper.
The top wiring plug has 4 wires.
20200527_202945-jpg.webp



When I checked for continuity to ground I had continuity on the two wires on the right, and the far left green wire. each of them also showed a few milivolts of DC current. I'm no car wiring guy, no idea what this means.

The white with green stripe had 12 volts when the brake was on. So if I can't find a good ground under the bed, I'll probably tap into the black wire for ground and hope it works. I might also inspect the wiring under the tailgate cover to see if maybe i have a better time figuring out which one is truly ground.

20200527_202925-jpg.webp
I ended up just purchasing the harness for the tailgate. I will end up plugging into where the old one was removed when my OVRLND Camper was installed. I'm hoping I should be just able to plug in, clip the wires butt splice into the third brake light and bada bing bada boom
Jeep Gladiator What are these 4 wires that go to the tailgate brakelight? IMG_20230515_121613292
 

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Does anyone make a pigtail for this connector? I hate tapping existing harnesses if I don't have to.
Jeep Gladiator What are these 4 wires that go to the tailgate brakelight? 1722102262128-uj
 

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Wire up the Alu-Cab 3rd brake light. I'd prefer this location over the trailer wiring.
Try something like this. It will let you use the tow wiring without damaging the factory harness.

CURT 56584 Replacement Vehicle-Side Custom USCAR 5-Pin Trailer Wiring Harness , Black https://a.co/d/7QVedmz

CURT 58540 Trailer-Side 5-Pin Flat Wiring Harness with 48-Inch Wires https://a.co/d/01egGmJ
 

Free2roam

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