Drag Link with Flip

[Phljeeper]

I have some play in my stock drag link and have the rest of the Synergy steering upgrades so planning to add the Synergy drag link. I am running a 3.5" Clayton lift and aftermarket wheels meeting the specs noted on the Synergy site for running the drag link flipped. Seems like this will improve my steering some, not expecting a radical improvement but any minor improvement helps. Two questions:

1. Anyone running their drag link flipped and provide experience (even better if running Synergy) - looking to understand how much steering improvement and if any issues wheeling.
2. Any concerns with the 3.5" lift? Some sites show 4" minimum but Synergy says 3" minimum if using their kit with the trackbar relocation bracket (which I would plan to include).

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[Dr Feelgood]

Yeah, I’ve been running the Synergy steering with the flip. Huge difference in steering control and much better when high articulation. I started using it with only 3” lift and now use it with 6” and 5.5”.
Most steering breaks on trail are due to bind over stressing the components. Less angle means less stress.
I run 40s on stock Rubicon axles (built) and have not broken anything with hard crawling.
I even hit a highway guardrail and only bent and cracked my axle housing but nothing else!
Well worth it.

 

[bakobobby]

Yeah, I’ve been running the Synergy steering with the flip. Huge difference in steering control and much better when high articulation. I started using it with only 3” lift and now use it with 6” and 5.5”.
Most steering breaks on trail are due to bind over stressing the components. Less angle means less stress.
I run 40s on stock Rubicon axles (built) and have not broken anything with hard crawling.
I even hit a highway guardrail and only bent and cracked my axle housing but nothing else!
Well worth it.

Morning Dr can you explain what the negatives could be of doing the flip? I'm well over 5" of lift from stock (sport s) and I am looking to install upgraded tie rod and drag link. From the pic you provided I can tell how much less angle your drag link has compared to my own.

Another question do I need to upgrade the knuckles to something like the Rockjock or Reid options to do the flip? If no would it help?

 

[MSFTMatt]

Reviving this thread and looking for some education. I'm looking at the Apex 2.5 ton drag link/tie rod and they offer "YES FLIP" and "NO FLIP". Can someone please help me to understand this prior to purchasing? 2023 JTR with Clayton 2.5" Overland Plus lift

 

[JT1]

Reviving this thread and looking for some education. I'm looking at the Apex 2.5 ton drag link/tie rod and they offer "YES FLIP" and "NO FLIP". Can someone please help me to understand this prior to purchasing? 2023 JTR with Clayton 2.5" Overland Plus lift

With a 2.5" lift, you want a no flip. This keeps the drag link in the factory location and doesn't require a different track bar mounting bracket either.

 

[MSFTMatt]

With a 2.5" lift, you want a no flip. This keeps the drag link in the factory location and doesn't require a different track bar mounting bracket either.

Awesome! Thank you much!

 

[Zachanadandy]

If you are lifting 3" or more, the flip is the way to go. No binding of the drag link tie rod ends. Nice flat steering angles which help both handling and bump steer. Our JLUR with xr had a slight shimmy over bumps even stock. After we added the 3.5" lift it was worse. Flipped drag link and raised track bar and it's more solid over bumps than it was stock. Raising the track bar also helps roll center. There are no drawbacks to flipping the drag link unless you don't have enough lift and it runs on the frame or limits uptravel.

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