Ideas for cargo floor anchor points or build a custom subfloor?

[dylanhack]

Hello All, I've always liked how M1101 and M1102 trailers have floor bed anchor points instead of just securing cargo to truck/trailer side panels. I'd like to do something similar for my Gladiator. Are there any product companies or DYI designs that already exist? If not, I'll make my own pattern from cardboard and then plywood as an experiment.

I don't want to drill anchors directly into the bed because I don't think the factory bed has the rigidity for it, so I'd plan to create the "thinnest" and most lightweight subfloor that I can, and make it removable.

Why? I'm not a permanent overlander and when not camping, I like to keep the bed empty to give the springs a break, get better gas mileage, better braking, load other cargo, etc... I pack all my camping gear in uniform totes from Lowes. Getting ready for a trip only takes about 30 minutes.

Having floor anchors and straps would keep individual totes from bouncing around and keeps a low center of gravity.

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[rharr]

I run this stuff, it's low profile and i mounted in the valleys of the bed so it's less likley to be in the way.
https://www.cargonets.com/airlinetrack.html

I like Track #3 profile

I used some fat fender washers on the back side (under the bed) to better distribute the load and placed bolts every 12"'s. I also used some marine grade silicon to glue down and keep water out and reduce vibrations.

 

[dylanhack]

Now that's great idea! and it's light. Have you had any issues with that setup?

 

[rharr]

no, it works great, i use them to strap my 2 bins (recovery & tools/fluids) down so they don't move around

 

[Minty JL]

Problem being is the sheet metal in the bed floor is thin,

So if you want something to hold weight.......tread lightly

 

[Mad Mac]

Back when I was in the oilfield service and supply business
we carried oilfield equipment such as wellheads and blowout preventers
in the beds of our pickups.
We made our own bed liner boxes with thick plywood floors and 2x12 sides.
The boxes could be removed by sliding out but we never had reason to.
We did not use tie downs but anchors, rings or hooks for tie downs
could certainly be added.
Lighter plywood and 2x6 sides may be enough to corral totes and gear.

 

[Jaxmax]

What about using the slots in side of bed to put say a 2x6 in there and just have a couple pieces where you need them and perhaps a inch in board at front of bed you could always run a teacher strap from front toe down over the board to keep it in place . Just a thought….Jack

 

[rharr]

Here is my setup

 

[rharr]

Problem being is the sheet metal in the bed floor is thin,

So if you want something to hold weight.......tread lightly

It's thinner so you add more fastener equally spaced and some big washers to disturb the load and prevent pull out. It's not like you are using them as tow points.

 

[dylanhack]

Yeah, for sure. It's just for holding single layer 40 - 60 pound, 18" x 24" x 18" totes. But instead of just washers, I'll run an aluminum 1" wide flat track underneath to spread out the load on each bolt. I'll take some pictures when done.

 

[rharr]

Yeah, for sure. It's just for holding single layer 40 - 60 pound, 18" x 24" x 18" totes. But instead of just washers, I'll run an aluminum 1" wide flat track underneath to spread out the load on each bolt. I'll take some pictures when done.

I used ss machine taper bolts and nyloc nuts, m6 I think for my hardware. Don't forget to pick up a counter sink bite for setting the bolts flush in the track.

 

[Jim Dandy]

Hello All, I've always liked how M1101 and M1102 trailers have floor bed anchor points instead of just securing cargo to truck/trailer side panels. I'd like to do something similar for my Gladiator. Are there any product companies or DYI designs that already exist? If not, I'll make my own pattern from cardboard and then plywood as an experiment.

I don't want to drill anchors directly into the bed because I don't think the factory bed has the rigidity for it, so I'd plan to create the "thinnest" and most lightweight subfloor that I can, and make it removable.

Why? I'm not a permanent overlander and when not camping, I like to keep the bed empty to give the springs a break, get better gas mileage, better braking, load other cargo, etc... I pack all my camping gear in uniform totes from Lowes. Getting ready for a trip only takes about 30 minutes.

Having floor anchors and straps would keep individual totes from bouncing around and keeps a low center of gravity.

I used E track from harbor freight and mounted on the sides of the truck bed on the bottom. Bent to match wheel well etc .

 

[Jim Dandy]

More photos

 

[Sweetums]

I run this stuff, it's low profile and i mounted in the valleys of the bed so it's less likley to be in the way.
https://www.cargonets.com/airlinetrack.html

I like Track #3 profile

I used some fat fender washers on the back side (under the bed) to better distribute the load and placed bolts every 12"'s. I also used some marine grade silicon to glue down and keep water out and reduce vibrations.

I was going to say that L-Track is the perfect solution for this. The right way to do it would be to lift the bed and back the tracks with giant washers or reinforcement with steel strips or angle iron where it fits.

 

[rharr]

You are overthinking this, I am not using these tracks to hold down industrial cargo, it for 2 60lbs totes, water jugs what ever, so things don't go flying around offroading or rolling over.

I am not even using ratchet straps, so go ahead and lite the torches

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