Olde Phart Tryin', wilst comin' out the udder side.

[OVERLORD]

Merry Christmas, quite a way to spend the day.

Back story ......

2020 Overland, 30K, Aux Battery changed 1.5 years ago, Primary battery this past spring with an upgrade, was it H7/G7 lots more CCA.

Changed over to my winter rims/tires, and then when I first noticed the dreaded circle A.

Since that time, been poppin' the tickle charger on when I get home.

It's been plarkin' cold, too cold for these olde bones to spend too much time in the gayrage.

Single digits.

I suspect DEC 3RD, came down with Covid.

Laid me low, still comin' out the udder side ...... today.

MERRY CHRISTMAS!

I don't have a load tester at my disposal. so,the best I have is a cheep chinee multimeter from Harbor Fright.

After shutting down yesterday, I disconnected the battery terminals, and checked voltages.

Aux 13V
Primary 14V
Dash Gauge while driving showing 14.6V

Threw the tickle charger on overnight.

Today pulled 42 fuse.

Pulled battery cables.

Disconnected IBS lead.

Primary battery on charge.

In a little while gonna swap the tickle charger over to the disconnected cables, which I imagine will charge the Aux.

Then I''ll take a readin' on bof batteries, reconnect everything, and hoping the dreaded circle A will disappear.

Still pretty wiped, but doin' what I can, the cold makes me cough, and that's not fun.

Pretty limited on NEWJEEP knowledge, and limited of engerny to do much yet.

Any suggestions?

This Spring want to illuminate the Aux battery in its entirety.

Thanks folks.

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[Mr._Bill]

Separately charge each battery with a good AGM charger. Let them sit for a while and then check the voltage. A healthy battery will read around 12.8 volts. Anything below 12.5 is due for a replacement soon. If the truck is not being driven regularly enough to keep the batteries charged, a maintainer should be connected when it is parked.

 

[OVERLORD]

Driven fairly often, short trips, only.

Not sure what the tickle charger puts out, lemme check.

Thanks for the help!

 

[OVERLORD]

Tickle charger stating charged, light solid.

Primary battery 13.5V.

At 1500 Hours swapping charger over to the disconnected leads, hoping that charges the Aux.

Thanks again!

 

[Lost1wing]

Those voltage readings are pretty high but I suspect it's the harbor freight calibration. If you test the voltage readings too soon after charging you could easily get readings like that. Normally, you would wait 30 minutes or so to read the voltages. A battery that can not retain a charge should show itself. 12.6 and up would be good to see, especially in those colder temps. Below 12.6vdc, you could put the AGM trickle charger on it over night and see what it does.

From what you did at this point, I think you will not see that light but you will see some other things missing on your display for a day or so. Don't panic, those missing icon/apps should reappear.

 

[OVERLORD]

Thanks for the help folks!

Gonna swap the the charger over to the detached leads in a few minutes and hopefully let the Aux battery charge for a while, then let it sit for a bit, and check readings again.

Popping the charger on overnight is not a big deal, don't want this buggy to leave me stranded.

That's my biggest concern.

Getting that light on the dash to go out tonight would e the gravy on the sundae!

Thanks again for the help!

 

[OVERLORD]

My other boggle, after verifying the batteries are good, the alternator is putting out, and fuse 42 is not blown, where else to look.

Cross that bridge over spilled milk when I get to it, I guess.

 

[Lost1wing]

Tickle charger stating charged, light solid.

Primary batter 13.5V.

At 1500 Hours swapping charger over to the disconnected leads, hoping that charges the Aux.

Thanks again!

Use the battery charger that you have for now. You can look for one that has a maintenance mode and is an AGM charger next time.

 

[Lost1wing]

Do not concern yourself with f42 at this point. It only controls the power control relay. Your batteries are connected together most of the time. You will not need to isolate the batteries for maintenance/ trickle charging one you reset the IBS. Just make sure your negative lead on the charger is attached above the IBS sensor and not on the main negative post itself.

 

[OVERLORD]

Swapped over.

Why I checked, hay I was out there!

Primary battery, off charge 13.7.

Aux battery on charge 13.7+

My heads a little fogged still, so put the info here before I forget.

My Olde Skool Phart Brain tells me the batteries are not the problem, in my present condition, I could be very wrong.

Too, It's Christmas, had my first beer since being sick, cheap date, I feel like singing show tunes.

"If I were a rich man" comes to mind, don't know why.

Hood switches have any effect to the issue?

 

[OVERLORD]

Do not concern yourself with f42 at this point. It only controls the power control relay. Your batteries are connected together most of the time. You will not need to isolate the batteries for maintenance/ trickle charging one you reset the IBS. Just make sure your negative lead on the charger is attached above the IBS sensor and not on the main negative post itself.

IBS is disconnected at the connector, the leads is not connected to the battery, the charger is connected to the leads. Not connected to the battery. Floating.

 

[OVERLORD]

WOW! Aux battery showing charged already.

I'll let it go to 1600, and then let everything sit for a while.

Thanks for the help folks.

I miss the olde days.

Battery bad, easy to check.

Alternator bad, easy to check.

Remember climbing into a engine compartment to work on a six cylinder.

Yeppers, I'm that olde!

 

[Lost1wing]

My other boggle, after verifying the batteries are good, the alternator is putting out, and fuse 42 is not blown, where else to look.

Cross that bridge over spilled milk when I get to it, I guess.

I wouldn't think you would need to go any deeper at this point. Two independently charged batteries and an IBS reset should take care of it. The only twist could be if you inadvertently touched the positives to ground, your fuse array could have suffered. That will show up as a no start or a bunch of dash lights.

 

[OVERLORD]

Thank you Sir.

Been careful isolating stuff.

Disconnected charger.

Primary 12.8

Aux 12.9

Gonna let them sit a bit and check them again.

I've never disconnected the IBS connector before, it will be off any source of voltage for over three hours when reconnection begins maybe 1700 hours.

I'm running out of gas.

Thaks for the guidance, I hope this works!

 

[Lost1wing]

Swapped over.

Why I checked, hay I was out there!

Primary battery, off charge 13.7.

Aux battery on charge 13.7+

My heads a little fogged still, so put the info here before I forget.

My Olde Skool Phart Brain tells me the batteries are not the problem, in my present condition, I could be very wrong.

Too, It's Christmas, had my first beer since being sick, cheap date, I feel like singing show tunes.

"If I were a rich man" comes to mind, don't know why.

Hood switches have any effect to the issue?

No. One of your hood switches will disable the ESS. No effect on batteries or charging.

Your batteries will most likely drop into the 12v range after 30 min or so. The 13.7 is only residual voltage from charging. Hopefully you see 12.8v or better. I wouldn't worry to much about your actual voltage readings until you can confirm you meter is accurate. It is a good reference though. I wouldn't toss a battery that read 12.2v on a harbor freight tester.

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