Another Stock Mojave on 37s (Manual)

[ConqSoft]

Well minor update. Stock mojave no longer on 37s.

Yeah that looks more like a 13"

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[JT1]

Well minor update. Stock mojave no longer on 37s.

That's no good.
Lugs not fully tightened?

 

[Ding gus]

That's no good.
Lugs not fully tightened?

Torqued to spec.... twice. Ive never had issue with non hubcentric wheels before but this probobly could have been prevented if I had run the hub adaptors. I put wheel back on and torqued the hell out of it and two miles later it had already backed off 1/2". There was some minor vibration i felt in the wheels initially but i thought normal because i hadnt balanced them yet.

 

[JT1]

Torqued to spec.... twice. Ive never had issue with non hubcentric wheels before but this probobly could have been prevented if I had run the hub adaptors. I put wheel back on and torqued the hell out of it and two miles later it had already backed off 1/2".

That is really strange. Aftermarket lugnuts?

 

[Ding gus]

That is really strange. Aftermarket lugnuts?

Factory lug nuts but used wheels. I guess its possible there could have been an issue with that rim but honestly i didnt see anything. The other three did not have issue

 

[Ding gus]

Close... the oil pressure changes right at 3K too, when the high lift cam switch happens.

I'm on 37s and 5.13s with the 6spd. 90% of the miles on this thing have been 70-80mph, which is 2500 to 2800 rpm. Oil pump switchover happens right at 85mph.

Man I always wondered what could be causing that weird hiccup in my manual when on light to no load just under 3k. Read a few posts here where others experienced it too. Is there any solution to eliminate that or is it a non issue?

 

[JT1]

Man I always wondered what could be causing that weird hiccup in my manual when on light to no load just under 3k. Read a few posts here where others experienced it too. Is there any solution to eliminate that or is it a non issue?

I get that light load stutter too, but normally in 2nd and 3rd..

 

[Ding gus]

 

[Ding gus]

 

[Ding gus]

3d printed replacement fender clips. Kept liner off. Good enough for now but i want to replace all fenders now.leaning towards the bushwacker flat set​

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[Ding gus]

Got the rear 3/4" spacer lift in. Took out the sag.

 

[Ding gus]

 

[Escape.idiocracy]

I debated back and forth over 4.88 and 5.13s for a long time. The general consensus, as I'm sure you have read, is that for the 6MT you should bump up an extra ratio compared to the normal size with a given tire size and the 8AT. So most people recommend a 4.88 with a 37 for the 8AT and a 5.13 for the 6MT. I don't think that is bad advice if you have a heavy setup or you tow frequently or live in areas with steep grades but I think I prefer to stop at 4.88s just to keep the pinion gear size up a bit more. I've been told 5.13s end up getting fairly weak/high stressed on the pinion engagement.
But more importantly, the math suggests that 4.88s more than make up for the difference with this tire in final drive ratio. This tire is really a 36. Its not even the 36.5 the specs claim.
So in summary, I think 5.13s would have been fine, but 4.88s feel just like stock again even if I went to a true to size 37" in the future.

I think something to add to this is the inner review to your driving both on and off road…..

Deeper the gears the hotter they get for on road. This doesn’t matter so much for short drives or even a couple hour drive…. But long drives this comes into play… fluid changes on the regular are even more important for bearing life.
5.13’s get hotter. 4.88’s also get hot….

off road- clutch comes into play for bumping obstacles and controlling the skinny pedal…. Some will argue they haven’t snapped the head on their pinion blah blah….. until they do…. 4.88 is Slightly larger and I have seen less broken 88’s than 13’s.

 

[piroman683]

I think something to add to this is the inner review to your driving both on and off road…..

Deeper the gears the hotter they get for on road. This doesn’t matter so much for short drives or even a couple hour drive…. But long drives this comes into play… fluid changes on the regular are even more important for bearing life.
5.13’s get hotter. 4.88’s also get hot….

off road- clutch comes into play for bumping obstacles and controlling the skinny pedal…. Some will argue they haven’t snapped the head on their pinion blah blah….. until they do…. 4.88 is Slightly larger and I have seen less broken 88’s than 13’s.

I blew my 4.56 in Baja from not lifting in the whoops (was too excited to pass raptors), and with a manual trans the shocks and force are more impactful vs auto since the torque converter can slip. Now, I also had 100k miles on the rear, plus lots of testing and jumping...but, that last whoop in Baja...she got me good

 

[JulesAo]

Yes you can literally buy factory 4.56 and 4.88! Both are factory JLU Rubicon options. Somebody will correct me if these don't fit our JT's!!

I had Jeep put in Mopar 4.88s (which are Dana Spicer) gears last month. Feels great to have 8th back.

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