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JUNK YARD FORD 1 TON AXLE SWAP

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Anyone who has done this swap, how does it drive with the 3.6l? I assume you would run at least 5.38 gears. Is it tolerable, particularly on the freeway? I'm in Texas, so 80-85 mph cruising speeds are the norm. No towing and otherwise light rig.
I have these axles on 40s with 5.13 gears and it’s a bit sluggish but not bad. 5.38 would have been better but they’re more prone to breaking while wheeling. The engine doesn’t feel like it’s over working unless I’m fully loaded at highway speeds going up a hill.
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NylesR87

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I currently have a 21 JLURD and I’m looking at putting a set of Super Duty axles 2012’ +
I haven’t seen anyone use anything that new and I can’t seem to find much information on it. My shop guy said go with 2012+ and find one with the e locker.
I called the local junk yard and I can get a set of newer 2012’ + axles with the locker for $800.
I’m trying to piece together a master list of what I’d need to get it done. ANY advice would be very greatly appreciated. Then I can start saving and piecing this build together!

I know I’ll need a PSC Hydro setup and new wheels and obviously new 40’s
I also noticed less options for wheels for the 8x170 lug pattern

Looks like I can get the ABS Kit from
https://www.rocksolidfab.com/products

Swap Kit from Artec

Fusion has a good deal of parts as well as Barnes. I just don’t know all of what I need!
 
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TheSolarWizard

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Beyond what you listed you’ll need master rebuilt kits, new unit bearings, high steer kit, tone rings and imo a better hub and brakes designed to work with the JT booster. The location of the front diff will cause some driveshaft issues if you build a suspension with lots of travel.
Id suggest you move to a long arm kit that comes with brackets and coilovers which will ease the challenges presented by the front diff.
after riding in virtually every attempt at long arms on the market, im confident that the rockkrawler U4EA kit works best under all conditions
 

NylesR87

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Beyond what you listed you’ll need master rebuilt kits, new unit bearings, high steer kit, tone rings and imo a better hub and brakes designed to work with the JT booster. The location of the front diff will cause some driveshaft issues if you build a suspension with lots of travel.
Id suggest you move to a long arm kit that comes with brackets and coilovers which will ease the challenges presented by the front diff.
after riding in virtually every attempt at long arms on the market, im confident that the rockkrawler U4EA kit works best under all conditions
I’ve currently got a 2.5” Clayton Lift kit with Fox 2.5 dsc shocks. Since I don’t do much rock crawling I’m hoping to get by with what I currently have.

https://fusion4x4.com/products/2005-super-duty-d60-traction-gears-master-install-kit-hubs-10-gears

https://fusion4x4.com/products/05-1...on-gears-master-install-kit-jk-e-brake-cables

I’d have to call them and see if this rear will work with a 12’+ it only lists up to year 2010’

Who do you recommend for the new unit bearings, high steer kit, tone rings and better hub/brakes?

Thanks
 
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Anyone who has done this swap, how does it drive with the 3.6l? I assume you would run at least 5.38 gears. Is it tolerable, particularly on the freeway? I'm in Texas, so 80-85 mph cruising speeds are the norm. No towing and otherwise light rig.
It wasn't bad at all on 40s. I have since gone up to 42s and now its pretty noticeably underpowered. It still cruises just fine on the freeway at 80. I don't see much of 8th gear anymore. I am running 5.38s too.
 

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TRAILJT

TRAILJT

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Beyond what you listed you’ll need master rebuilt kits, new unit bearings, high steer kit, tone rings and imo a better hub and brakes designed to work with the JT booster. The location of the front diff will cause some driveshaft issues if you build a suspension with lots of travel.
Id suggest you move to a long arm kit that comes with brackets and coilovers which will ease the challenges presented by the front diff.
after riding in virtually every attempt at long arms on the market, im confident that the rockkrawler U4EA kit works best under all conditions
What diff issues are you guys talking about? I do have long arms but not coilovers.
 

Jahernandez26

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It wasn't bad at all on 40s. I have since gone up to 42s and now its pretty noticeably underpowered. It still cruises just fine on the freeway at 80. I don't see much of 8th gear anymore. I am running 5.38s too.
Is the JT gas tank location similar to that of a JL? Reason I ask is because I am buying a set of prebuilt 08 dana 60 front and 08 sterling 10.5. The guy is even delivering them for me they have 5.38s, grizzly lockers, tone rings, high steer arms and a psc ram. He was running them on a JK with an aftermarket gas tank. I have done some research on the JL/JK forums no luck on the JL forums in regards to this subject. But on the JK forums some people have done it, the JK swaps are hit and miss. Some people clear the gas tank by removing the flange and using a U bolt style mount to the yoke. I am wondering if the JTs have clearance issues. I asked him if he had any issues or if he cut the tubes and swapped them but he hasn't answered in 24hrs lol. Thanks.
 
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TRAILJT

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Is the JT gas tank location similar to that of a JL? Reason I ask is because I am buying a set of prebuilt 08 dana 60 front and 08 sterling 10.5. The guy is even delivering them for me they have 5.38s, grizzly lockers, tone rings, high steer arms and a psc ram. He was running them on a JK with an aftermarket gas tank. I have done some research on the JL/JK forums no luck on the JL forums in regards to this subject. But on the JK forums some people have done it, the JK swaps are hit and miss. Some people clear the gas tank by removing the flange and using a U bolt style mount to the yoke. I am wondering if the JTs have clearance issues. I asked him if he had any issues or if he cut the tubes and swapped them but he hasn't answered in 24hrs lol. Thanks.
My rear Drive line slightly Rubs on my artec aluminum skidplate system when fully flexed. It not a big deal it makes a little ringing noise and light scratches on driveline. I am not too sure that the rear Diff brackets are going to work on a gladiator. The front one will fit perfect. compare the rear diff kits on artec. They do not look the same.
 

Jahernandez26

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My rear Drive line slightly Rubs on my artec aluminum skidplate system when fully flexed. It not a big deal it makes a little ringing noise and light scratches on driveline. I am not too sure that the rear Diff brackets are going to work on a gladiator. The front one will fit perfect. compare the rear diff kits on artec. They do not look the same.
My rear Drive line slightly Rubs on my artec aluminum skidplate system when fully flexed. It not a big deal it makes a little ringing noise and light scratches on driveline. I am not too sure that the rear Diff brackets are going to work on a gladiator. The front one will fit perfect. compare the rear diff kits on artec. They do not look the same.
Nvm freaking ahole dude we agreed on a price and everything and now he is ghosting me. I reallly don't want to spend $19k on crate dana 60s, this would've been a great option. I am so pissed rn.
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