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Articulated 4 link rear suspension

Zachanadandy

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JTGuy

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It should move more feely as there is no track bar resistance pushing the diff side to side or holding it in place. Up and down along with articulation will be easier due to no weight or resistance from the track bar..
 
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JTGuy

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This could be my last mod for a while . As time and miles go the odds of serious repairs go up. Trans and cams.
 

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The truss can be welded to the axle tubes and the u-bolts removed. They actually recommend welding for hard use. Personally I kept the ubolts in place after welding for an extra level of strength. I'll take ubolts and proper suspension geometry over the terrible short upper/long lower factory setup and its resultant wild pinion angle changes.
Any idea why they’re only good for up to 5” lift? It seems like more extreme rigs would make more changes like this. Just curious.

Also, since you’re experienced with 4 links, how does it change high speed cornering and towing, if at all? I’m interested in any option that removes the rear track bar.
 

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Zachanadandy

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Any idea why they’re only good for up to 5” lift? It seems like more extreme rigs would make more changes like this. Just curious.

Also, since you’re experienced with 4 links, how does it change high speed cornering and towing, if at all? I’m interested in any option that removes the rear track bar.
I'd guess it would require the addition of adjustable lowers over 5" but I can't see anything else that wouldn't work? Things like brake lines, abs lines, and vent hose would probably need extended, but I think that's the case with any lift that tall.
High speed cornering is as good or better than the stock setup, especially if the corner isn't smooth. The triangulated 4 link really plants the rear end. I don't think I ever towed with the stock setup, but even the 8400lb trailer full of cabin building materials towed just fine behind the current setup.
 
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WILDHOBO

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I'd guess it would require the addition of adjustable lowers over 5" but I can't see anything else that wouldn't work? Things like brake lines, abs lines, and vent hose would probably need extended, but I think that's the case with any lift that tall.
High speed cornering is as good or better than the stock setup, especially if the corner isn't smooth. The triangulated 4 link really plants the rear end. I don't think I ever towed with the stock setup, but even the 8400lb trailer full of cabin building materials towed just fine behind the current setup.
That’s fantastic. I’m not sure if this one, but a triangulated setup might be in my future.
 
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JTGuy

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A few words about the RockKrawler kit. The supplied new upper arms are solid steel. The diff bracket is all welded 1/4 inch steel. Everything is best quality and solid. The powder coat is perfect. No part of this kit is going to ever fail. Looking forward to an easy install.
 

Zachanadandy

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A few words about the RockKrawler kit. The supplied new upper arms are solid steel. The diff bracket is all welded 1/4 inch steel. Everything is best quality and solid. The powder coat is perfect. No part of this kit is going to ever fail. Looking forward to an easy install.
Mines been tested to ~3' of air and drifting at 100mph in the dirt and still looks like it did the day I Installed it.
 

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Those are good reviews. Really good.
 

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Don’t mean to derail the thread but quick question… how would this 4 link rk set compare to a mid arm kit on high (mid actually) speed desert rig????
 

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Don’t mean to derail the thread but quick question… how would this 4 link rk set compare to a mid arm kit on high (mid actually) speed desert rig????
With a standard lift that keep the stock geometry and track bar you'll still get the drawbacks of both even if you replace all 4 control arms. The uppers in the stock location are very short compared to the lowers which lead to large pinion angle changes when the suspension cycles. The faster you go the quicker the axle is rolling front and back on rough terrain. That's not a good thing. The rear track bar will still push the axle driver on compression and pull it passenger on droop. The bigger the bumps and the higher the speed the more this happens. And what amplifies it is that the front track bar is mounted opposite so it's pulling driveron extension and pushing passenger on compression. That makes for sometimes violent head toss at speed. The triangulated uppers eliminated both issue for me. My mojave regularly sees freeway speeds in the desert and the rear is much more planted over washboards. The bigger bumps/ jumps smooth out much quicker upon landing as the rear just moves straight up and down. In my opinion is not even close.
 

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The truss can be welded to the axle tubes and the u-bolts removed. They actually recommend welding for hard use. Personally I kept the ubolts in place after welding for an extra level of strength. I'll take ubolts and proper suspension geometry over the terrible short upper/long lower factory setup and its resultant wild pinion angle changes.
Why is this only good for 3-5 inch lifts ?
 

Zachanadandy

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Why is this only good for 3-5 inch lifts ?
Not sure. There's plenty of adjustment in the uppers, but the kit doesn't include lowers (or need them at those lift heights. My guess would be that at over 5" you'd want to add adjustable lowers but otherwise it would work fine.
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