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OIL, 0-20 or otherwise (couldn't find the other oil threads)

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Interesting watching a non-Jeep mechanic’s steps for diagnosing the issue. When he started the Jeep, my thought was, step 1, pull the valve cover. A number of people posting comments felt the same way.

So here is Part 2 that he posted this morning. Agree with his assessment and feelings about this. On the bright side I like his price for the job compared to what the dealer would charge. I’m guessing dealerships primarily do warranty work if people are getting quotes from other shops.

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ShadowsPapa

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I am sure all the Jeep people were screaming in the comments that Ivan should have went straight to the valve covers but that overlooks that Ivan works a bazillion different makes and models in his business and I would cut him the slack for not knowing to go the RH head valvetrain. If anything, he followed his process that shows his skills that is going to lead him there anyway.

As to why his scan tool shows misfires on LH drivers bank is interesting though. I am almost wondering if it is his scan tool leading him astray?
Naw, that would be jumping to conclusions when there are other reasons for that tick even in Jeeps....................
Jeep people forget there's a TSB for LASH ADJUSTERS causing a tick. One that has collapsed or is stuck at some point will cause a loud valve train noise. So it could be that.
Also - it's never bad to try to diagnose and see if you can find the reason for things before ripping into them.
Just popping off the cover and starting to replace parts is one possible reason people see it happening again.
"cam and followers are bad, so that's what I'll replace".......... even in shops, that's not always a good thing.

The proper diagnostics documents actually include some of what he was doing............but he was a bit off the trail in some places, too.
 

Stan H

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Well ,with the damage being all high side then at idle I wouldn't expect a noise. , which wonder if it is also a lash adjuster. 🤔 thus Jeep may have problems on both banks .
 

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Well ,with the damage being all high side then at idle I wouldn't expect a noise. , which wonder if it is also a lash adjuster. 🤔 thus Jeep may have problems on both banks .
Normally, the high side of the follower runs against the cam's high lift lobe, held there by a spring.
Once there is enough wear, the follower's middle section can't be kept against the lobe and will slap at it.

In this pic, it's locked in high lift mode, but if it wasn't, the spring to the right (green) would still keep the follower against the center cam lobe. With enough wear on the cam and follower, the center section would hit the stop and would slap against the cam lobe.

Jeep Gladiator OIL, 0-20 or otherwise (couldn't find the other oil threads) 1750626748449-n


At least, that's how I see it.
 

Stan H

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Normally, the high side of the follower runs against the cam's high lift lobe, held there by a spring.
Once there is enough wear, the follower's middle section can't be kept against the lobe and will slap at it.

In this pic, it's locked in high lift mode, but if it wasn't, the spring to the right (green) would still keep the follower against the center cam lobe. With enough wear on the cam and follower, the center section would hit the stop and would slap against the cam lobe.

1750626748449-ne.jpg


At least, that's how I see it.
Ah I see , I didn't complete the entire video but suspect that cam wasn't the only issue .
 

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I thought I'd drop a oil analysis report on a JT that has a few miles on it using Valvoline 0W-20 with fairly consistent oil changes. I was looking for a certain thread here about life cycle of 3.6 failures, oil type used ect. I have posted on but not found. So then here is a history for a 2020 in use since end of January 2020.
Jeep Gladiator OIL, 0-20 or otherwise (couldn't find the other oil threads) Screenshot_20250622_141442_All PDF Reader

Food for thought, I've spent more on having oil tested than cost of changing oil and filters. But it was a verification of oil changes and tracking, wear or problems (if any developed).
 

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Just give me some Casteoil 20-50 Racing oil like I used in my 70 Bronco. Ran great and forever. Sometimes I would add a can of STP . No cam or lifter issues. Now we run 0-20 and wonder why we have noise. We should try the new full syn 0-0 cuz it flows so fast.
 

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Just give me some Casteoil 20-50 Racing oil like I used in my 70 Bronco. Ran great and forever. Sometimes I would add a can of STP . No cam or lifter issues. Now we run 0-20 and wonder why we have noise. We should try the new full syn 0-0 cuz it flows so fast.
LOL - trying to compare ancient engines with very different clearances, materials and designs.

Why not go drip oilers with straight 30 weight non-detergent for the pistons and grease cups for the crank bearings?
No cam lobe issues because you simply shoot them with oil from your oil can now and then.
 

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I thought I'd drop a oil analysis report on a JT that has a few miles on it using Valvoline 0W-20 with fairly consistent oil changes. I was looking for a certain thread here about life cycle of 3.6 failures, oil type used ect. I have posted on but not found. So then here is a history for a 2020 in use since end of January 2020.
Thanks for posting. More data is always better.

Do you follow the OLM on when to change or is around 7K miles your normal interval you select?

What brand oils where used in the red circled Iron results? I am not too concerned about them being above the universal averages as I think that is base on around a 5,800 mile average last I checked and you run a but farther than that so there would be some uptick to be expected.

Thanks for any information.

Jeep Gladiator OIL, 0-20 or otherwise (couldn't find the other oil threads) OW-20
 

ShadowsPapa

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Thanks for posting. More data is always better.

Do you follow the OLM on when to change or is around 7K miles your normal interval you select?

What brand oils where used in the red circled Iron results? I am not too concerned about them being above the universal averages as I think that is base on around a 5,800 mile average last I checked and you run a but farther than that so there would be some uptick to be expected.

Thanks for any information.

OW-20.jpg
Huge change in moly - different brand?
 

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Charles 236

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LOL - trying to compare ancient engines with very different clearances, materials and designs.

Why not go drip oilers with straight 30 weight non-detergent for the pistons and grease cups for the crank bearings?
No cam lobe issues because you simply shoot them with oil from your oil can now and then.
Maybe one of those old 292 Ford (Y-Block) lifesaver kits. The modern oiling systems, if not perfect, are still light years ahead of any old engine's oiling system. I recall some of the Ford engines that my friends tried to hop up that had drippers in the valve covers to direct oil into the rocker arms. When the valve covers were changed for ones with no drippers, smoked rockers and pushrods resulted from the lack of lubrication.
 

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Thanks for posting. More data is always better.

Do you follow the OLM on when to change or is around 7K miles your normal interval you select?

What brand oils where used in the red circled Iron results? I am not too concerned about them being above the universal averages as I think that is base on around a 5,800 mile average last I checked and you run a but farther than that so there would be some uptick to be expected.

Thanks for any information.

OW-20.jpg
I try to change it when 20% or less oil life by the dash gauge, some have been lower. To add much of it is towing trailers too. One is a over-built utility trailer that is very H.D. for its size made by company that makes commercial work trailers to haul zero turn mowers and like equipment. The axles choices are 3500 or 5000 single or double. That trailer outweighs my 4 wheelers together. Next is my travel trailer in the 3000 lbs range, damn I need to get it's weight.
 

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I try to change it when 20% or less oil life by the dash gauge, some have been lower. To add much of it is towing trailers too. One is a over-built utility trailer that is very H.D. for its size made by company that makes commercial work trailers to haul zero turn mowers and like equipment. The axles choices are 3500 or 5000 single or double. That trailer outweighs my 4 wheelers together. Next is my travel trailer in the 3000 lbs range, damn I need to get it's weight.
Thanks, what brand oils were used?
 

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Thanks, what brand oils were used?
Dealer oil on first 4, Valvoline on almost all others, Pennzoil a time or so. When I didn't find Valvoline. I still have a 5 qt bottle of it to use.
 

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My 2024 Mojave Gladiator will on the next oil change be running 5W-30 from here on out. The only remaining decision is whether to use Pennzoil Ultra, Mobile 1, Schaeffer's, or Amsoil. I am mildly surprised to find the Pennzoil Ultra in the lead for the moment. It is less expensive than Schaeffers (everything is less expensive than Schaeffers) and is easily acquired at Walmart. 0W-20 is not required, only "recommended" as per the Owner's Manual. If it were "required", it would say "required". Believe it. The legal department at Stellantis pours over every word.
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