Clearance for 37x12.5s? Non-Rubicon axle width and 17x8.5 0/4.75" BS

[Trail_Limo_Tim]

Doing some homework before I buy the parts to lift and get some bigger tires under her. Been doing quite a bit of reading and watching videos on the Gladiator platform, but wanted to ask since I'm new. Just bought a stock 2021 Gladiator Willys Diesel.

I'm considering running 17x8.5 0/4.75 BS wheels with 37x12.5s on a Willys (non-Rubicon model, so I have the "narrow" track axle housings and lower fender flares). Is anyone running this combo and wheeling it? Will the front tires turn lock to lock without rubbing to all hell on everything? You can assume a ~3" lift, which isn't on the truck yet, but it's gonna rub where it's gonna rub regardless of lift heights once the tires stuff. I really just wanna know if this combo is going to rub badly in the front on the inboard side of the Jeep? Am I going to have issues steering lock to lock and need wheel spacers? Maybe I will just need some higher clearance fender flares to get the full up travel?

There are lots of Rubicon examples out there, but not so many Willys or Sport. It's my 0.75" narrower track width per side that's got me pondering this. Based on what I've seen working for Rubicons, I think this setup will work for mine. Anyone have experience with it? Thanks

Stock

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[nbennettksu]

I cant really comment on the stock height, but I have three friends wheeling on a 2.5" lift and 40's with no rubbing. They did do fenders.

I have spacers on mine but I like the pushed out look. A 1.75" spacer will clear your OEM studs and you won't need to grind them down.

 

[Trail_Limo_Tim]

I cant really comment on the stock height, but I have three friends wheeling on a 2.5" lift and 40's with no rubbing. They did do fenders.

I have spacers on mine but I like the pushed out look. A 1.75" spacer will clear your OEM studs and you won't need to grind them down.

I’ll be installing a lift, so at ride height it’ll probably have 3 inches of lift in the front at minimum. I know it’s gonna rub the front bumper for sure and some of the inner plastics. I just don’t know if it’s gonna rub the sway bar, control arm, etc. at full lock. Trying to avoid making a poor wheel choice if possible.

Good to know about the wheel spacers. I’d like to avoid them if possible, though. I was able to run a 0.75 inch Bora spacer on my Tacoma with a Method wheel and the studs barely stuck out past the spacer. The wheels were built in a way that cleared the studs and allowed for proper seating onto the hubs.

 

[djthumper]

I am running 35x12.5x17 with Method 701s with 4.75" BS with no rub with my Sport S. You should have no problems.

 

[Trail_Limo_Tim]

I am running 35x12.5x17 with Method 701s with 4.75" BS with no rub with my Sport S. You should have no problems.

Awesome, thank you. Do you have any pictures of how much the tires poke out past the fender flares?

 

[djthumper]

 

[Trail_Limo_Tim]

Wow, more than I expected. Looks good. Thanks!

 

[djthumper]

It may be 2" but it isn't bad.

 

[Trail_Limo_Tim]

It may be 2" but it isn't bad.

I’m a recovering Toyota owner so this is way different than what those wheel specs would net on a Tacoma or 4Runner. Just adjusting my expectations and learning. This isn’t my first Jeep, but I have owned more Toyotas than Jeeps. I just like 4x4s. We can all be friends, right???

 

[Trail_Limo_Tim]

I cant really comment on the stock height, but I have three friends wheeling on a 2.5" lift and 40's with no rubbing. They did do fenders.

I have spacers on mine but I like the pushed out look. A 1.75" spacer will clear your OEM studs and you won't need to grind them down.

Was looking at what you said and thinking man I wanna go straight to 40s… but I won’t have the coin to upgrade the axles and regear right away. Drivability might not be too miserable since I have the diesel, though.

As for axle upgrades, I don’t think it’s worth sinking thousands into these “narrow” axle housings to beef them up. By the time you regear, air lockers, axle shafts, and trusses you’ll be $6,000-7,000 into it. If I’m not gonna do Dana 60s right away (no chance) I might as well look for some Rubicon take off axles and get the immediate benefits: 68” width, e lockers, 4.10s, and 10 mm axle tube thickness. Could regear, upgrade shafts, and truss then have a pretty solid setup given it’s still a 44.

Apparently the narrow track axles have 8 mm axle tube thickness and the wider track has 10 mm thickness, but I have not seen a source cited on this yet. If I grabbed some Rubicon take offs maybe I could sell my stock axle assemblies for a little money back in my pocket. Decisions, decisions.

Any input from anyone who’s gone down this road is welcome.

 

[Deleted member 57233]

They fit on my Willys diesel with the stock lift and no rubbing because the bump stops are so long. I did replace the stock Willys bumper with the steel Rubicon one.

 

[djthumper]

Don't forget that the Diesels have iron knuckles. You would have to make sure the Rubicon axles came out of a gasser, diesels still have 3.73s.

 

[nbennettksu]

Was looking at what you said and thinking man I wanna go straight to 40s… but I won’t have the coin to upgrade the axles and regear right away. Drivability might not be too miserable since I have the diesel, though.

As for axle upgrades, I don’t think it’s worth sinking thousands into these “narrow” axle housings to beef them up. By the time you regear, air lockers, axle shafts, and trusses you’ll be $6,000-7,000 into it. If I’m not gonna do Dana 60s right away (no chance) I might as well look for some Rubicon take off axles and get the immediate benefits: 68” width, e lockers, 4.10s, and 10 mm axle tube thickness. Could regear, upgrade shafts, and truss then have a pretty solid setup given it’s still a 44.

Apparently the narrow track axles have 8 mm axle tube thickness and the wider track has 10 mm thickness, but I have not seen a source cited on this yet. If I grabbed some Rubicon take offs maybe I could sell my stock axle assemblies for a little money back in my pocket. Decisions, decisions.

Any input from anyone who’s gone down this road is welcome.

I went to Windrock with a guy who has eco diesel and 40's, nothing upgraded in terms of axle shafts, no truss, no regear, nada. Four days of black diamonds and blues and he drove 700 mies home

GO WITH 40'S.

Brother, If you want to see the abuse stock axle's can do, go follow Hutch719 on IG. If I'm correct, he hasn't done upgraded shafts, he has no truss, but he does have lockers. I want to do 60's but don't get stuck believing that the 44's on even a narrow-track are brittle. I have narrow track in the rear and not upgraded shafts.

 

[Trail_Limo_Tim]

They fit on my Willys diesel with the stock lift and no rubbing because the bump stops are so long. I did replace the stock Willys bumper with the steel Rubicon one.

I’m assuming you mean 37s? I got carried away talking about 40s in my last post. I know I’ll need a stubby bumper for clearing 37s off road. Are the diesel front bump stops longer than gas models or something?

Don't forget that the Diesels have iron knuckles. You would have to make sure the Rubicon axles came out of a gasser, diesels still have 3.73s.

It’s funny you mention that because I was reading about differences and saw aluminum knuckles mentioned. Stopped right then and grabbed an antenna magnet to go find out for sure what I had. Steel. Good heads up on the gear ratios. I’ve seen it mentioned that all diesels got 3.73s as well.

I went to Windrock with a guy who has eco diesel and 40's, nothing upgraded in terms of axle shafts, no truss, no regear, nada. Four days of black diamonds and blues and he drove 700 mies home

GO WITH 40'S.

Brother, If you want to see the abuse stock axle's can do, go follow Hutch719 on IG. If I'm correct, he hasn't done upgraded shafts, he has no truss, but he does have lockers. I want to do 60's but don't get stuck believing that the 44's on even a narrow-track are brittle. I have narrow track in the rear and not upgraded shafts.

Laughed out loud at this because DAMMIT. 🫣

 

[Trail_Limo_Tim]

@nbennettksu Did you need that anti rock sway bar to clear your tires or did the stock sway bar clear with your setup?

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