[3.6L] What’s Your Cold Weather Startup Procedure?

[Stan H]

You need about 10 minutes for the oil and transmission fluid to get up to temp, after that you're good.

10 min. ..lol 10 min. And it aint even reached 75°F on a 25°F morning .
Mines on 142,569 & I just drove it today to church. They definitely last a long time.

You guys act like these engines are going to last forever. With all the complaints about cams wearing out in 20,000 miles just get in and drive for Jimminy Crickets.

I beg to differ

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[DanW]

Two Part Question:

1. When the temperature outside is 32°F (0°C) or colder, what’s your procedure for starting the engine?

2. After the engine is running, what signs do you look for to know it’s ready to drive?

1) Use Mobil 1 0w20 oil.
2) Start engine, put on belt, secure brief case or whatever I'm bringing a long for a few seconds for fluids to begin circulating.
3) Check surroundings.
4) Begin driving immediately, but very gently until it is up to full operating temperature.

 

[Aj58]

You can’t drive a jeep in the winter unless you get a catch can, a Baxter oil filter housing, a block heater, a blanket for the grill, remote start, and one of those fold up shovels. Otherwise, don’t even try to leave the house. It won’t work.

Forgot the quadratic Christmas wreath.

 

[BearFootSam]

Start it up, get the car seat situated, then it’s 1,000’ up to the gate at about 5mph. It idles while I unlock and relock the gate, then I accelerate gently up to the 55mph speed limit.

If it’s in the teens or below I remote start it so the truck can warm up enough to soften the door seals so they last longer.

 

[Stan H]

Forgot the quadratic Christmas wreath.

https://www.quadratec.com/p/quadratec/jeep-led-christmas-wreath

 

[BearFootSam]

Some of the power plant equipment I work on is from the 1940s. The old O&M Manuals actually state for cold starts to make a pile of oily rags under the gearbox and light them on fire for warmup.

Some of the old tractors I've been aquainted with had two fuel tanks, a small pony tank of gasoline to start the engine then switch over to diesel once it's warmed enough. One in particular I belive was an old iH Farmall. Sadly such utilitarian designs are long gone and now even Ag machines are shibarid with enough emissions equipment to make Ol' Macdonald cry.

 

[Jrgunn5150]

You guys act like these engines are going to last forever. With all the complaints about cams wearing out in 20,000 miles just get in and drive for Jimminy Crickets.

You guy's act like they all blow up a minute off the lot when really, 99% of them make it to 200k barring any accident damage.

 

[WILDHOBO]

You guy's act like they all blow up a minute off the lot when really, 99% of them make it to 200k barring any accident damage.

So mine has 82k+ now. To be honest, it’s been nothing but reliable. If it blows up today, I’d be frustrated, but meh, not very much. I’m keeping the jeep, so the engine is just a part at this point. Whatever I’d spend to replace the engine would pale in comparison to buying a new gladiator, or even a used one. But if I maintain it even close to as well as @Stan H, I expect it’ll make it WAY over 120k before it starts to have significant problems leading to a repower. Just like suspension. New parts rejuvenate a vehicle and makes it feel new. A new engine someday will absolutely do that.

 

[Jrgunn5150]

In general, modern, 2010+ of any make, seems to be more trouble prone than pretty solid 95-2010 stuff.

Lot's of complexity on the newest cars, and they all seem to have their complaints.

But in my adult life, since graduating college and buying new cars, I haven't had any of them fail to hit 200k+ for me, and I only do the recommended oil changes.

And roughly 45-50k a year on both mine and my wifes primary drivers.

Social media just leads to a lot of fear and magnification of complaints.

 

[WILDHOBO]

In general, modern, 2010+ of any make, seems to be more trouble prone than pretty solid 95-2010 stuff.

Lot's of complexity on the newest cars, and they all seem to have their complaints.

But in my adult life, since graduating college and buying new cars, I haven't had any of them fail to hit 200k+ for me, and I only do the recommended oil changes.

And roughly 45-50k a year on both mine and my wifes primary drivers.

Social media just leads to a lot of fear and magnification of complaints.

In 200k, all you do is oil changes? No tranny fluid, diff fluid, transfer case fluid, coolant, brakes, etc?

 

[Jrgunn5150]

In 200k, all you do is oil changes? No tranny fluid, diff fluid, transfer case fluid, coolant, brakes, etc?

I've found, again and again, my next vehicle comes with all that brand new.

I do brakes whenever it's warranted, or anything else that actually fails. I even add washer fluid repeatedly. Our FJ never needed brakes, our Grand Cherokee did at like 180k, my Ram went 445,000 miles and got multiple sets, as well as a pair of wheel hubs. Never, ever, one time did I open any of their transmissions, radiators, diffs, or cases.

No flushes, purges, analysis, additives, or anything else.

 

[Jedemiah]

Wait, you guys have remote start?

 

[DanW]

Wait, you guys have remote start?

I NEVER use it. It wastes fuel and does not warm the engine as quickly as gentle driving.

Editorial note: If I had my way, I'd delete that and the stupid ESS. They are contradictory, which only makes sense to the government that allows one and mandates the other. LOL.

 

[brsnow2585]

I've got about a 1/4 mile crawl uphill on my street to the main road, it's an easy lazy crawl that cold idle is more than enough for. I'm getting warm by the top of the hill and my idle is dropping, but I'm running diesel. I don't like to romp on it cold but it's there in case

 

[Stan H]

I NEVER use it. It wastes fuel and does not warm the engine as quickly as gentle driving.

Editorial note: If I had my way, I'd delete that and the stupid ESS. They are contradictory, which only makes sense to the government that allows one and mandates the other. LOL.

My flash cal takes care of that stupid ESS

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