JeepOfTheseus
Well-Known Member
- Thread starter
- #1
The title isn't meant to imply the Genesis kit is to blame, but to clarify up front what my configuration is.
I've been having an issue where if the Jeep sits for ~1 week or more, it won't crank and I have to use the boost mode. Both batteries were obviously installed around the same time: 3 years ago. This time, I left for 10 days and it was down to 9.5v. The boost mode always saves me.
To quote Genesis: "Devices connected to the bus bars run from the Aux battery and will not drain your cranking battery." Provided this is true, it heavily narrows down what accessories I have that would be drawing power from the cranking battery:
* Aux Switches - 2 switches are ignition only, 2 are battery power. Of those, I generally only leave 1 on: my Midland MXT275VP4 15 Watt GMRS, but I leave the "actual" radio off...it's only for utilizing the pass-through USB-C charger in the event that I'd want to, which is rare, if ever.
* Digital Rear View Mirror/Dash Cam - I need to double check, but I believe I have it set to recording while parked. However, I'm running their hardwire kit anyways which has battery protection at 11.3v, 11.8v or 12.1v.
* Tazer Mini - I know there is risk of this keeping the dash on if you don't follow the save procedure, but I do. I can also assert that the dash never stays on.
* Pedal Commander - I'd hope/assume this is only drawing when the vehicle is on.
* Veepeak BT OBD Reader - Similarly, I assume this is only when the vehicle is on, because I don't believe I can even connect to it if it's not.
* PAC AP4-CH41 (for adding amplifiers) - I've also heard that in the first revision of this there was risk of parasitic draw, however that was resolved in the second version which I have.
Short of waiting for 6+ various long out-of-town trips, is there any way to narrow this down? Do any of these even seem like something that could draw that much power?
I've been having an issue where if the Jeep sits for ~1 week or more, it won't crank and I have to use the boost mode. Both batteries were obviously installed around the same time: 3 years ago. This time, I left for 10 days and it was down to 9.5v. The boost mode always saves me.
To quote Genesis: "Devices connected to the bus bars run from the Aux battery and will not drain your cranking battery." Provided this is true, it heavily narrows down what accessories I have that would be drawing power from the cranking battery:
* Aux Switches - 2 switches are ignition only, 2 are battery power. Of those, I generally only leave 1 on: my Midland MXT275VP4 15 Watt GMRS, but I leave the "actual" radio off...it's only for utilizing the pass-through USB-C charger in the event that I'd want to, which is rare, if ever.
* Digital Rear View Mirror/Dash Cam - I need to double check, but I believe I have it set to recording while parked. However, I'm running their hardwire kit anyways which has battery protection at 11.3v, 11.8v or 12.1v.
* Tazer Mini - I know there is risk of this keeping the dash on if you don't follow the save procedure, but I do. I can also assert that the dash never stays on.
* Pedal Commander - I'd hope/assume this is only drawing when the vehicle is on.
* Veepeak BT OBD Reader - Similarly, I assume this is only when the vehicle is on, because I don't believe I can even connect to it if it's not.
* PAC AP4-CH41 (for adding amplifiers) - I've also heard that in the first revision of this there was risk of parasitic draw, however that was resolved in the second version which I have.
Short of waiting for 6+ various long out-of-town trips, is there any way to narrow this down? Do any of these even seem like something that could draw that much power?
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