Mojave franken lift

[Stormtroopin]

Just wanted to get some thoughts on a lift im putting together for my Mojave. I want it to ride as close as stock as possible, so I’m going with synergy 2 inch coils, MC adj arms full set, freshly rebuilt Mojave shocks with 2 inch shock extensions as well as MC HD steering set up. I may end up putting the MC adj track bar on as well but my alignment guy said it won’t matter much since the 2 inch lift won’t shift the axle much. I asked him about the rear track bar as well and he said install the lift first and bring it in he will let me know if I should get them. Just wondering if I’m overlooking something I may need as well. Thoughts and opinions are welcomed, negative or positive.

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[Wheelin98TJ]

Seems like overkill with adjustable arms everywhere on that short of a lift. I’d just run a front set to adjust caster.

 

[outdoor.adventures]

Sounds great! He’s right about the track bar approach. You’ll probably end up doing a front - it’s noticeable enough. Rear not as likely.

 

[Zachanadandy]

I would suggest a triangulated 4 link kit for the rear vs replacing the control arms with stock geometry. The long lowers and very short uppers is a terrible design that leads to pinion dive as the suspension droops.

 

[Bandit’s Lair]

I would suggest a triangulated 4 link kit for the rear vs replacing the control arms with stock geometry. The long lowers and very short uppers is a terrible design that leads to pinion dive as the suspension droops.

Do you have a thread on this? Interested in long arms, but if this is an improvement I’d like to see how everything worked out as far as install and drivability on and off road. What considerations go into it like spare removal, exhaust mods, can I run an Aux fuel tank, all that kind of stuff. I spied on your profile but didn’t see a thread, then again I’m technologically declined so I probably missed it.

 

[GI Grandpa]

Just wanted to get some thoughts on a lift im putting together for my Mojave. I want it to ride as close as stock as possible, so I’m going with synergy 2 inch coils, MC adj arms full set, freshly rebuilt Mojave shocks with 2 inch shock extensions as well as MC HD steering set up. I may end up putting the MC adj track bar on as well but my alignment guy said it won’t matter much since the 2 inch lift won’t shift the axle much. I asked him about the rear track bar as well and he said install the lift first and bring it in he will let me know if I should get them. Just wondering if I’m overlooking something I may need as well. Thoughts and opinions are welcomed, negative or positive.

Metal Cloak rear swaybar reinforcement bracket or what ever they call it, while you have it all apart

 

[Zachanadandy]

Do you have a thread on this? Interested in long arms, but if this is an improvement I’d like to see how everything worked out as far as install and drivability on and off road. What considerations go into it like spare removal, exhaust mods, can I run an Aux fuel tank, all that kind of stuff. I spied on your profile but didn’t see a thread, then again I’m technologically declined so I probably missed it.

I didn't take any detailed install pics or anything like that. The triangulation eliminates the need for a rear track bar, which is the typical contact point for an oversized spare. My 37x12.50 fits under there easily and comes out just the same as stock. I'd imagine the aux fuel tank that fits where the spare goes would clear just the same but no experience there. If I remember, the stock lowers are ~24" and the stock uppers ~15". That's why you get crazy pinion dive when the axle droops. The triangulated arms on mine are set at 21". This allows the axle to maintain the pinion pointed at the tcase output through suspension travel. The removal of the rear track bar allows the axle to move straight up and down instead of in a side to side arc. This eliminated the head toss hitting bumps or driveways at an angle as only the front axle swings a little side to side and mine is raised as part of the drag link flip so even there is pretty flat. Being that the front track bar is mounted to the drivers side frame trail and the rear is mounted to the passenger the front axle moves left on droop and the rear moves right and vice versa on compression. That opposing motion causes the head toss. Maintaining pinion angle also reduces wheel hop and leads to the rear feeling more planted especially under hard acceleration on slick surfaces. Probably not quite as good as long arms as far as flex, but I'd bet it rides better over bumps.

 

[Bandit’s Lair]

Ok thanks. I was wondering on the flex too. I likely the flexy.

 

[Zachanadandy]

Ok thanks. I was wondering on the flex too. I likely the flexy.

You'll still get plenty of flex, and I'm not sure you could get more out of long arms as coils unseating and the rear sway bar are already limiting.

 

[Bandit’s Lair]

I’ll have to do some studying on geometry stuff I guess. I always liked the concept of the links because the flex made sense to me. Also the strength inherent in triangulated stuff is appealing. Maybe long arms in the front and triangulated rear would work better.

 

[Zachanadandy]

I’ll have to do some studying on geometry stuff I guess. I always liked the concept of the links because the flex made sense to me. Also the strength inherent in triangulated stuff is appealing. Maybe long arms in the front and triangulated rear would work better.

The rock krawler long arm kits switch the rear suspension up to a 3 link with a track bar. I might try front long arms in the future but have no desire to switch up the rear at all.

 

[Bandit’s Lair]

The rock krawler long arm kits switch the rear suspension up to a 3 link with a track bar. I might try front long arms in the future but have no desire to switch up the rear at all.

That’s actually a glowing review for a truck if you want to do nothing different with the rear end. I’m looking at Clayton for long arms. They’re big and beefy which is good out here for the rocks and ledges and stuff. I had more thoughts to type but I was sitting with a needle in my arm and now I forget what I was going to type.

(Plasma donation. Mods don’t ban me.)

 

[Zachanadandy]

That’s actually a glowing review for a truck if you want to do nothing different with the rear end. I’m looking at Clayton for long arms. They’re big and beefy which is good out here for the rocks and ledges and stuff. I had more thoughts to type but I was sitting with a needle in my arm and now I forget what I was going to type.

(Plasma donation. Mods don’t ban me.)

I like their price, but I'm not a fan of radius arms. If I do it, it will be a real 4 link long arm setup like metalcloak, rock krawler, or teraflex.

 

[Stormtroopin]

Seems like overkill with adjustable arms everywhere on that short of a lift. I’d just run a front set to adjust caster.

I get your thinking, im really just doing all the arms because I want the adjustable ends and the gold zinc through the truck. Bit of ocd bit of preference.

 

[Stormtroopin]

I would suggest a triangulated 4 link kit for the rear vs replacing the control arms with stock geometry. The long lowers and very short uppers is a terrible design that leads to pinion dive as the suspension droops.

So I sent an email out to MC to see if there 4 link kit will eliminate the track bar in the rear. After doing some more research I’ll probably end up doing there 4 link and just get front adjustable arms. I’ve seen former post from you and a couple other members swearing the jeep rides better and other added bonuses with that setup. Not a fan of cutting off the stock mounts thow. I don’t ever rock crawl but I plan to hit John Bull this year so mabey this rear setup will give me extra confidence in hitting every thing that trail has to offer.

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