Rock Krawler 3" X Factor JT System

[Rock Krawler Suspension]

So to those of you with the Pro-X version, beware of AFE exhausts because it’s not just the Hi-Tuck but most if not all of them except the Rock Basher have the 2nd muffler rotated down into the path of the control arm.

Yikes, great knowledge to have but sorry you figured it out the hard way.

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[human29]

Yikes, great knowledge to have but sorry you figured it out the hard way.

Yes same problem on my jeep. The Pro X upper control arm hits the AFE exhaust during big bumps and I broke my isolator when I loaded the be due to the control arm riding on the muffler.

 

[Rock Krawler Suspension]

Yes same problem on my jeep. The Pro X upper control arm hits the AFE exhaust during big bumps and I broke my isolator when I loaded the be due to the control arm riding on the muffler.

Would you mind posting a picture with the jeep at ride height of the clearance on that exhaust? I wonder if it's something that our engineers can add a few more degrees of bend in the arm going forward. From the picture @Duke56 posted, it seems like we wouldn't be able to but having the arms in place will give a more accurate view.

 

[human29]

Would you mind posting a picture with the jeep at ride height of the clearance on that exhaust? I wonder if it's something that our engineers can add a few more degrees of bend in the arm going forward. From the picture @Duke56 posted, it seems like we wouldn't be able to but having the arms in place will give a more accurate view.

I will have to get a better photo now that I am looking at this but here is one shot. Now I alter mine to try to get more foreword to try to miss the control arm.

 

[Duke56]

I will have to get a better photo now that I am looking at this but here is one shot. Now I alter mine to try to get more foreword to try to miss the control arm.

What AFE system is that?
If I recall, the front of the that 2nd muffler is close to a frame crossmember that you might hit.
Just moving the 2nd muffler forward looks like it might work if the crossmember don’t stop it without rotating but would still require cutting and inserting a small 1” to 2” section of straight pipe at the top tangent of the bend where the tailpipe arcs over the axle. Also may need to cut and reweld the straight section between the 2 mufflers. If it’s that simple then you could DIY using a short section of 3” to 3” pipe and a couple clamps since it is on the exiting end of the last muffler. The straight section should be welded back together though. I’ll have another look at it later today.
Just reviewing the pictures again and it may even be better to move the system more towards the driveshaft by modifying the way it is hung and relocate the hanger rods on the exhaust.
I did not use the hanger/isolator that you broke off because I was too tired of wrestling that weight lying on my back.
I installed mine with the Jeep on the ground and not even jacked up. Oh what fun! (But not too bad)
Could you take pictures from underneath and the rear angle as well?

 

[Duke56]

I wonder if it's something that our engineers can add a few more degrees of bend in the arm going forward. From the picture @Duke56 posted, it seems like we wouldn't be able to but having the arms in place will give a more accurate view.

RK, another option might be to increase the width between the attachment points on the truss a few inches. Not as easy of a fix but just another option.

I’ll be looking at a combo of moving the muffler forward, and towards driveshaft and angling it up from it’s current position.
It may be as simple as moving the hanger on the tailpipe to the opposite side and extending the others as needed to move the entire system further away from the frame by 3” at the rear hanger.
I contacted AFE as well and they tell me they are working on another system available at the end of March that uses a single muffler in the front but it will be slightly louder than the one below.

UPDATE 6/7/2020:

My shop cut a 6” section from the end of the straight pipe immediately in front of the 2nd muffler and before the first hanger.
Then they cut the pipe immediately exiting the 2nd muffler and welded in the 6” piece that they took from the straight pipe.
This moved the 2nd muffler forward 6” and now there’s plenty of clearance for the up travel using a Pro-X kit.
The hangers were left in the OE locations and it’s rock solid.
Problem solved!

 

[Rock Krawler Suspension]

RK, another option might be to increase the width between the attachment points on the truss a few inches. Not as easy of a fix but just another option.

I’ll be looking at a combo of moving the muffler forward, and towards driveshaft and angling it up from it’s current position.
It may be as simple as moving the hanger on the tailpipe to the opposite side and extending the others as needed to move the entire system further away from the frame by 3” at the rear hanger.
I contacted AFE as well and they tell me they are working on another system available at the end of March that uses a single muffler in the front but it will be lightly louder than the one below.

We can't give up the effect of triangulation for the sake of clearing one aftermarket exhaust manufacturer. Spreading the arms at the axle will defeat triangulation and reduce arm length, taking away from all the advantages that ProX currently has.

 

[Duke56]

I wasn't aware of the geometry details that have been already worked out by RK.
Just throwin' stuff at the wall. Sorry.

 

[HTXGladiator]

In light of sounding inconsiderate or insensitive, a clearance issue with one aftermarket exhaust, in my opinion, does not justify the necessity of a redesign on Rock Krawler's part.

 

[jjmstang]

It still blows my mind why a little 3.6 V6 needs 2 mufflers to begin with !!

 

[Duke56]

In light of sounding inconsiderate or insensitive, a clearance issue with one aftermarket exhaust, in my opinion, does not justify the necessity of a redesign on Rock Krawler's part.

And I whole heartedly agree.
The fact that RK offered up having their engineers take a look at changing the bend in the arm is what had me throw out the idea of spacing the rear mounting location further apart.
They went first LOL

 

[HTXGladiator]

And I whole heartedly agree.
The fact that RK offered up having their engineers take a look at changing the bend in the arm is what had me throw out the idea of spacing the rear mounting location further apart.
They went first LOL

I'm just judging from one awkward photo, but seems like the fix could be as easy as cutting at each side of the muffler, rotating it in towards the centerline, then re-welding.

 

[Duke56]

I'm just judging from one awkward photo, but seems like the fix could be as easy as cutting at each side of the muffler, rotating it in towards the centerline, then re-welding.

It's not that simple unfortunately and for a couple reasons.
1. The entrance and exit of the muffler to be rotated as you say are on different axis and you can't simply rotate it about one of them without effecting the pipe attached at the other end.
2. These are stainless steel and few shops can weld it.
3. The entrance to the 2nd muffler is straight and uses only a clamp.
I'll have this issue resolved by Friday night and I'll post the solution I used in a new thread.
Lastly, I don't want to hijack this thread any longer.

 

[Relentless_Eric]

So after chasing some clunks that have developed in my suspension when hitting a bump, it looks as though my front track bar frame mount has developed some play/elongated the hole(can watch bolt move side to side when the steering wheel is turned left/right when parked). The bolt is red locktite'd and torqued to 150ftlbs. Any suggestions on a repair? Synergy track bar mount/sector shaft brace solve the problem for me? Or should I just add some 1/4" plate weld washers to the bracket and call it good, however that would prevent the sector shaft brace from being installed in the future.
My rear seems to have loosened up a bit as well but everything is torqued properly as well(clunks a little over certain bumps or when switching trans from fwd to rev). Could this be play in the joints already (only 2000 miles lifted)? If so would tightening down the retaining ring on the rebuildable joints and locking the set screws to the new location be suitable to tighten them back up? Just trying to prevent future headaches chasing/repairing brackets from sloppy mounting holes and also make my truck as quiet/smooth as possible. Should I be torquing the link bolts past 150ftlbs? Instructions stated 140-160 so I split the difference when putting on the kit. Thanks for any insight @Rock Krawler Suspension

 

[RH 67]

So after chasing some clunks that have developed in my suspension when hitting a bump, it looks as though my front track bar frame mount has developed some play/elongated the hole(can watch bolt move side to side when the steering wheel is turned left/right when parked). The bolt is red locktite'd and torqued to 150ftlbs. Any suggestions on a repair? Synergy track bar mount/sector shaft brace solve the problem for me? Or should I just add some 1/4" plate weld washers to the bracket and call it good, however that would prevent the sector shaft brace from being installed in the future.
My rear seems to have loosened up a bit as well but everything is torqued properly as well(clunks a little over certain bumps or when switching trans from fwd to rev). Could this be play in the joints already (only 2000 miles lifted)? If so would tightening down the retaining ring on the rebuildable joints and locking the set screws to the new location be suitable to tighten them back up? Just trying to prevent future headaches chasing/repairing brackets from sloppy mounting holes and also make my truck as quiet/smooth as possible. Should I be torquing the link bolts past 150ftlbs? Instructions stated 140-160 so I split the difference when putting on the kit. Thanks for any insight @Rock Krawler Suspension

Did you use these torque specs? I have the same miles as you and everything is tight and no noise. Get the Synergy track bar mount.

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