Hanging Gladiator roof from garage ceiling joists?

[sarcasm]

Curious about this - maybe it's obvious if removing the top - but I've never even tried, heck, i've never even read the DIRECTIONS on HOW to remove it - so if this is obvious, sorry, but your statement here -
>>Eye Bolts and Washers for the top itself.<<
There are holes you can run eye bolts through?
I believe I have some stainless ones left from other projects.
Since I own the bike hangers already, was thinking of trying that out, but want to make sure the FRONT hooks can't slip off or out. The rear, no problem, they'll cradle the rear edge.

I get paranoid about stuff - safety, things falling, even my mower deck which I remove each winter when I put the snow blade on the lawn tractor - I use a boat winch and steel cable to pull it up against the wall then I wrap a heavy chain around it and secure to two hooks screwed into the wall studs to make sure the deck can't tip over. I bet it weighs close to 200 pounds. The winch and steel cable would be enough, but..........

Here are some pics of the eye bolts attached to the top. You could add quick links as well. The whole setup is very secure. I use strap with a cam buckle which is much easier than using something with a ratchet style strap.

Front

Back

Cam buckle strap

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[ShadowsPapa]

OK, so it took a long time because I had to clean out 1/4 of the garage (10 years worth of just tossing stuff in, literally "I'll put that away later" and "I may need this box for something" and "can never have too many cat litter buckets" and stuff like that........... well, my wife has been threatening to call someone in and go through it - and I may not like the results. So to get the truck in the garage to begin with - because it's even a lot longer than my Javelin which is a VERY VERY long car, I had to do a lot of rearranging, filling garbage cans, and some trips to the store to get shelving supplies. And now my wife says - good, do that with the other 3/4 of the garage.......
Anyway, it ain't pretty because the garage ain't pretty. It's not attached, it's not insulated, no fancy walls, no ceiling at all. All bare studs and joists and rafters. AND, this past week temps were in the 90s and the humidity generally matched the temp. DIRTY work!
I took a lot of stuff to the end of the driveway and set it under a sign that said FREE -
lawnmower, tiller, 2 transfer pumps, shelving units of various types, air compressor I bought in the 80s - had a hole in the tank, a small tool box and other stuff I can't recall right now. Filled two garbage cans - large ones and the recycle bin is full of cardboard and boxes.

BUT - I did it! I got the roof off and drove the truck today with the roof hanging in the garage!
It's a WORK IN PROGRESS. I am not happy with some of the pulleys but I used what I had already on hand. I finally found some I like better and will replace some when the roof is back on the truck. (or otherwise supported so I can rethread the ropes)
It's a snap to remove the roof - and Jeep was clever as heck with the little spot to stow the wire connector when disconnected - plug it into the fake plug and put the cover on, the wire pigtail is hidden from sight when the roof is off! Wow, that was clever indeed.

Here's a ton of pics - and someone mentioned plumb bobs - I have a couple I hadn't used in a while. I marked spots on the garage floor after parking 3 or 4 times to get a feel for where I'd normally land the thing, and lined things up using the plumb bobs and went from there.
The only thing I had to buy was the winch as I had the bike lifts already and the pulleys in place now, I already had. I'm buying better ones to replace 3 or 4 existing ones.
It takes only minutes to take the roof off.
I want to find a way that looks neater and that's better as far as the "safety straps" I have - I just sort of hooked onto something to hold it just in case - and it looks that way, too! HA

I'm curious - anyone know just what the roof does weigh???

I'll tidy up the pulleys a bit, come up with a neater, faster way to secure it safely once it's up (like a better place or way to put the green and red straps in place) as I get time.

The one photo shows a pair of pulleys I will use to replace the goofy belt idler pulley I used. Those will keep the ropes apart a bit better as they wind onto the winch and just plain look better. But I used what I had and could make work.....................

 

[WhiteJT8541]

Here are some pics of the eye bolts attached to the top. You could add quick links as well. The whole setup is very secure. I use strap with a cam buckle which is much easier than using something with a ratchet style strap.

Front

Back

Cam buckle strap

Not sure if it would impact the hole but I would put another bolt and washer on the eyebolt as shown in the attached pictures then a plastic spacer before putting the last but and washer on. This would keep the eyebolt hanging straight down.

 

[TJJT]

I just put in a lift in my garage for this. I didn't go the DIY route, I bought a power hoist that was $400 from Lange Originals. They make a hand crank version for $200. For as much as the tops costs, I wanted something that didn't rely on my engineering abilities. https://langeoriginals.com/collections/the-lange-rack

 

[TJJT]

 

[TJJT]

 

[ShadowsPapa]

I just put in a lift in my garage for this. I didn't go the DIY route, I bought a power hoist that was $400 from Lange Originals. They make a hand crank version for $200. For as much as the tops costs, I wanted something that didn't rely on my engineering abilities. https://langeoriginals.com/collections/the-lange-rack

I almost always over-build things - the engine hoist I built has lasted since about 1980 and shows no signs of damage - and will lift an IH 400 (not to be confused with the AMC 401 they used and called a 400), the engine stand I made - same thing, 1980s, still works fine. I also rigged a system to lift the drive-on 60" John Deere lawn mower deck up off the floor and out of the way when I convert to snow blade use.
I'm not afraid of this letting loose, and I already have plans to beef things up a bit.
Considering the costs of the winch, the pulleys I did buy (I didn't have quite enough of the type I wanted) and the fact I had two bike lifts sitting around in their boxes since about 10 years ago - my son gave me one when he moved) I might have $50 in this - and I can arrange it however I want if I decided I wanted to make it better or use it for lifting bikes again. Nothing lost if I ended up trading or selling this truck.
$50 to $200 - hmmm, that's $150 I can use for something else!
I have a heck of an assortment of lumber, screws, large selection of bolts (I used to farm so I had thousands of various bolts, nuts, washers, etc.) and it's time to use some of what I have. The 2x4s were left-over from hauling 3 large, long AMC dealership signs back from Omaha last winter, so I had 2 new 9' 2x4s, the construction screws I had boxes of those from other projects.
I may replace the bike lift ropes with some better "parachute cord" I have in the shop, if I get concerned about that. But in this case, with all the pulleys, the cord isn't holding all that much weight at any given single point.

 

[TJJT]

I almost always over-build things - the engine hoist I built has lasted since about 1980 and shows no signs of damage - and will lift an IH 400 (not to be confused with the AMC 401 they used and called a 400), the engine stand I made - same thing, 1980s, still works fine. I also rigged a system to lift the drive-on 60" John Deere lawn mower deck up off the floor and out of the way when I convert to snow blade use.
I'm not afraid of this letting loose, and I already have plans to beef things up a bit.
Considering the costs of the winch, the pulleys I did buy (I didn't have quite enough of the type I wanted) and the fact I had two bike lifts sitting around in their boxes since about 10 years ago - my son gave me one when he moved) I might have $50 in this - and I can arrange it however I want if I decided I wanted to make it better or use it for lifting bikes again. Nothing lost if I ended up trading or selling this truck.
$50 to $200 - hmmm, that's $150 I can use for something else!
I have a heck of an assortment of lumber, screws, large selection of bolts (I used to farm so I had thousands of various bolts, nuts, washers, etc.) and it's time to use some of what I have. The 2x4s were left-over from hauling 3 large, long AMC dealership signs back from Omaha last winter, so I had 2 new 9' 2x4s, the construction screws I had boxes of those from other projects.
I may replace the bike lift ropes with some better "parachute cord" I have in the shop, if I get concerned about that. But in this case, with all the pulleys, the cord isn't holding all that much weight at any given single point.

There are some great looking ones built on here that surprised me on how solid they are. For me, this hit the right spot on quality vs price.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

There are some great looking ones built on here that surprised me on how solid they are. For me, this hit the right spot on quality vs price.

Not everyone wants to "hassle with" the BYO approach. And unless you have a ton of stuff on hand, then the hunt can take more time than it's worth to many folks.
Turn-key systems you know will be strong and safe - they must stand behind the product. IF there's a problem, they have to deal with it, not you.
I was also itching for a thinking something through sort of thing - was sooo busy in my shop, endless restoration jobs, I got to a point where I knew taking a few days to clean up the garage and make this rig wouldn't be too big a deal - I'd catch up again.
Plus -I made this part of the garage cleaning, sorting, organizing effort. I needed to use up things I've had for decades, needed to get up overhead and see what I could toss, needed to re-do the shelving, it just worked into the whole thing.
If all you need to do is lift the top off - there's some nice lifts out there for not a ton of money.
If you have a lot of stuff to use, almost everything you need already on hand - and can work it in with other projects, then you have a choice to make - do it or buy it.
Nothing wrong with either!
And $200 isn't a bad price at all - you have a warranty, and a company backing it.
I wanted to make something - and some of the ideas other members had shown - gave me inspiration!

 

[TJJT]

Not everyone wants to "hassle with" the BYO approach. And unless you have a ton of stuff on hand, then the hunt can take more time than it's worth to many folks.
Turn-key systems you know will be strong and safe - they must stand behind the product. IF there's a problem, they have to deal with it, not you.
I was also itching for a thinking something through sort of thing - was sooo busy in my shop, endless restoration jobs, I got to a point where I knew taking a few days to clean up the garage and make this rig wouldn't be too big a deal - I'd catch up again.
Plus -I made this part of the garage cleaning, sorting, organizing effort. I needed to use up things I've had for decades, needed to get up overhead and see what I could toss, needed to re-do the shelving, it just worked into the whole thing.
If all you need to do is lift the top off - there's some nice lifts out there for not a ton of money.
If you have a lot of stuff to use, almost everything you need already on hand - and can work it in with other projects, then you have a choice to make - do it or buy it.
Nothing wrong with either!
And $200 isn't a bad price at all - you have a warranty, and a company backing it.
I wanted to make something - and some of the ideas other members had shown - gave me inspiration!

Makes sense. You did a great job on your set up.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

I made some modifications - didn't get 4 of the top pulleys changed to better, stronger types (ceiling mount types) but DID get the one changed out by the winch.
I also totally changed my "safety" setup - now I have a nicer, cleaner, better looking AND easier to use safety setup. I can actually release the winch and the roof stays suspended by a simple set of cords hanging from eye-bolts. The roof hung from them while I redid the pulley setup next to the winch.
So now I winch the roof up, then run the cords through holes in the roof and put dowels through - just like the lift system uses on the front edge. On the rear the cords go under the back edge of the roof and up to a couple of the bolt holes. I used hose to prevent the edge of the roof from messing with the cord, or the cord from messing with the paint on the edge of the roof.

No straps, just a real simple set of cords and dowels then hook those to the eye bolts above via the S-hooks. The winch could totally break and it would still be secure. The cord I bought is rated at 100 pounds. Since it's doubled at each of the 4 locations, it's not even stressed. Single cord at each corner could support 400 pounds, but it's doubled at each so no worries. PLUS - the lift itself is still in place, so the original system that lifted it up is holding it as well.

 

[FREEZE451]

$20 later and works great! Even turned around and did the wife's jeep

 

[A 2]

Just a heads up. I saw in a few pictures many of You have prefab roof trusses. you may overloading the bottom of the truss. In construction we are always told the weight bearing should be on the top of the truss. That said, a few of you spared the load across A few trusses, this helps but I think if you ask any other truss mfr, it’s not good enough. The other thing to watch is the angle of your rope or cable, you don’t want to ‘roll’ the truss by pulling on them with diagonal force

I‘m not an engineer but have been in construction for some time and hanging from the bottom of a truss was always frowned upon. BTW, I’m in California so everything is over engineered because of our seismic zone.

Someone else may chime in on this.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

Just a heads up. I saw in a few pictures many of You have prefab roof trusses. you may overloading the bottom of the truss. In construction we are always told the weight bearing should be on the top of the truss. That said, a few of you spared the load across A few trusses, this helps but I think if you ask any other truss mfr, it’s not good enough. The other thing to watch is the angle of your rope or cable, you don’t want to ‘roll’ the truss by pulling on them with diagonal force

I‘m not an engineer but have been in construction for some time and hanging from the bottom of a truss was always frowned upon. BTW, I’m in California so everything is over engineered because of our seismic zone.

Someone else may chime in on this.

True the bottom of the truss is to tie the walls together at the top (prevent spreading) but there's also strength as the bottom tie is held up by the rafter portion. So in a way you are hanging from the top.

In Iowa they have to be engineered to take so many tons of snow load.

Once the snow flies the roof will be on the truck, if not before that. So in a way, I'm exchanging the designed-in snow load handling for about, what, 40 - 50 pounds of plastic, fiberglass and the rear window glass?
We have to have snow load considered in Iowa. We've seen buildings destroyed by spring blizzards! When you get 14"+ of heavy wet snow in April, it doesn't slide off, it just keeps stacking, you have to design for it.

My "ropes" are running in line with - Parallel with the trusses, not perpendicular and not at any other angle. That helps as I'm then talking compression load.

The guy we bought from was a contractor, Taylor-Ball construction. He built the house for himself.
He over-built everything - people who have come to add on or make changes cuss his work because he used so many nails. Floor joists in the house under the kitchen and bedroom - 12" centers.
He tied 4 of the trusses together in the garage (seen in my pics) with particle board and I used 2x4s under that to tie into 3 of them so I'd have something to screw the pulleys to that was more substantial.
BUT - he also tied ALL of the trusses together down the center with sheets of plywood screwed to the trusses - so one can't "sag" by itself, and they can't twist. I have not measured but it looks like he's got plywood running down the center end to end and about 12' wide. So all trusses are tied together with plywood, 12' wide, running the whole length of the garage. Further, I note that he's added 2x4 "ties" from the lower joist areas up to the rafter portion, further holding the bottoms of the trusses up. Looks like he did that where he had his steel angles and steel rods stored up there.
Whatever hangs from one in a way, hangs from all of them since they all tie together the whole length of the building by sheets of plywood.

The JT roof is lighter than two overhead doors and two openers when hang from the trusses when open (at least in part - figure about half the weight of the doors plus the full weight of both openers hangs from 2 trusses)

I feel safe with this setup.

 

[A 2]

True the bottom of the truss is to tie the walls together at the top (prevent spreading) but there's also strength as the bottom tie is held up by the rafter portion. So in a way you are hanging from the top.

In Iowa they have to be engineered to take so many tons of snow load.

Once the snow flies the roof will be on the truck, if not before that. So in a way, I'm exchanging the designed-in snow load handling for about, what, 40 - 50 pounds of plastic, fiberglass and the rear window glass?
We have to have snow load considered in Iowa. We've seen buildings destroyed by spring blizzards! When you get 14"+ of heavy wet snow in April, it doesn't slide off, it just keeps stacking, you have to design for it.

My "ropes" are running in line with - Parallel with the trusses, not perpendicular and not at any other angle. That helps as I'm then talking compression load.

The guy we bought from was a contractor, Taylor-Ball construction. He built the house for himself.
He over-built everything - people who have come to add on or make changes cuss his work because he used so many nails. Floor joists in the house under the kitchen and bedroom - 12" centers.
He tied 4 of the trusses together in the garage (seen in my pics) with particle board and I used 2x4s under that to tie into 3 of them so I'd have something to screw the pulleys to that was more substantial.
BUT - he also tied ALL of the trusses together down the center with sheets of plywood screwed to the trusses - so one can't "sag" by itself, and they can't twist. I have not measured but it looks like he's got plywood running down the center end to end and about 12' wide. So all trusses are tied together with plywood, 12' wide, running the whole length of the garage. Further, I note that he's added 2x4 "ties" from the lower joist areas up to the rafter portion, further holding the bottoms of the trusses up. Looks like he did that where he had his steel angles and steel rods stored up there.
Whatever hangs from one in a way, hangs from all of them since they all tie together the whole length of the building by sheets of plywood.

The JT roof is lighter than two overhead doors and two openers when hang from the trusses when open (at least in part - figure about half the weight of the doors plus the full weight of both openers hangs from 2 trusses)

I feel safe with this setup.

Thumbs up @ShadowsPapa for considering this. Just making sure an unsuspecting DIYer Doesn’t start hanging and imposing rotational forces on long span prefab trusses that aren’t made to carry load. The JT hardtop is much lighter than the JLU, JkU and other tops. Typically bottom truss bottom chords are designed to hang about 5lbs/sf.

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