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The Most Effective Steering Wander Fix Cost Me $0 (Updated 1-7-23)

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Lunentucker

Lunentucker

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I have the Rancho brackets on the way and the RockJock carrier bearing spacer as well.

Hopefully they will complete the lift project and get things in order.
Great forums here!
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OP - Can I get a pic of the "White leather" you mentioned in the original description?
 

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If they just lifted it with nothing to restore caster, the caster is probably very low, less than 4.
1" lift for mine, caster was 4.25 as I recall. The more you go above that 1", the greater the change for each additional inch.
 

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OP Great info on the steering box!

FWIW it looks like you’ve got a spacer on the top of your coil. I have a ‘21 Mojave as well, I put the 2” AEV spacer lift on mine, and it looks like yours has a spacer lift as well.

On the plus side, you’re probably all set to run 37s! But on the flip side, your alignment may not be set up for the stock wheel and tire combo anymore… AEV makes a geometry correction bracket. I have them installed on my Gladiator. Between the brackets and the alignment I got after the lift, it drives better now on 37s than it did stock!
I just found this thread. Question Doc...

I ordered the 2.5” leveling kit from rough Country. Intended to get a inch or so for the rear. Decided to go with 3.5” because...
Long story short I’m not impressed with rough Country customer service. I won’t go into it. But... I now have a AEV 2” spacer lift on the way and the rough country is in the closet.
So I think I might go the 2.5” rough up front and the AEV 2” in the rear.
I already have tier 3 front and rear track bars on the way from CORE4x4.
My question is if I should bother to also order some adjustable lower control arms from CORE? Will they indeed help prevent “tire shimmy” if you adjust the lowers longer?
 

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Will they indeed help prevent “tire shimmy” if you adjust the lowers longer?
Better caster improves stability, return to center after a turn, etc. but it has to be way out to be a cause of shimmy. There is no simple solution or single cause. There are several extremely long discussions on "shimmy" and "death wobble". Caster is seldom the answer unless it's way out.
There's no single fix other than make really sure you are in alignment specs, nothing is LOOSE, no play, all fasteners properly torqued, and that you haven't screwed up things with fancy 3rd party wheels, spacers, different offsets and sizes and so on. Once you start swapping parts - you are into no-mans land in a way.
With a lift of 2" or more, you will need to "fix" caster, even consider relocation brackets to get those control arms more parallel to the ground again.
 

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Better caster improves stability, return to center after a turn, etc. but it has to be way out to be a cause of shimmy. There is no simple solution or single cause. There are several extremely long discussions on "shimmy" and "death wobble". Caster is seldom the answer unless it's way out.
There's no single fix other than make really sure you are in alignment specs, nothing is LOOSE, no play, all fasteners properly torqued, and that you haven't screwed up things with fancy 3rd party wheels, spacers, different offsets and sizes and so on. Once you start swapping parts - you are into no-mans land in a way.
With a lift of 2" or more, you will need to "fix" caster, even consider relocation brackets to get those control arms more parallel to the ground again.
Indeed. No easy answer.
Do you think it would be beneficial for me to get adjustable lower control arms then?
My 2” AEV kit won’t arrive until the middle of May. So I have plenty of time to get adjustable lowers coming...But then I will do 2.5” rough country in front and 2” AEV in rear. And track bars. But I’m thinking lowers may be beneficial listening to everyone talking about them.
Once installed I’m going to take it in for alignment and I will then let the technician adjust the lowers to the best spec.
I realize I’m spending more on track bars and possibly control arms than the lift, but I want my Jeep to ride straight and true and be squared away proper.
 

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I don’t plan on maxing out with huge tires. But I’m going to run 315/70/17’s on the stock rims. So I want to be sure I’ve got room up front.
I’m not a huge off roader or rock crawler. But when I go hunting up north the taller tires are helpful along with a little bit more clearance.
 

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The back roads get a bit gnarley in places.
 

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Looks very unique! I never knew white was an option. Thanks!
Yea they call is Steel Grey on the ordering sheets, but it's a super light gray that is almost white. I could never with 2 huskies in the backseat lol I would regret it instantly, but it looks great.
 

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To add to this thread, my geomotry was really off with my LE JT and after adding Synergy Track bar, Adjustable control arms and the steel box, it drives amazing now. I was cruising at 90MPH the other day and it was windy with little to no wondering. My YJ would have flown away I feel lmao
 

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Yea they call is Steel Grey on the ordering sheets, but it's a super light gray that is almost white. I could never with 2 huskies in the backseat lol I would regret it instantly, but it looks great.
I think it looks great, too......... but with all of my shop work, jumping into my truck at the spur of the moment with dirty jeans and arms, and that sort of thing, it just wouldn't look that great for very long. But that doesn't mean I can't still admire it in the trucks of others.
 

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I think it looks great, too......... but with all of my shop work, jumping into my truck at the spur of the moment with dirty jeans and arms, and that sort of thing, it just wouldn't look that great for very long. But that doesn't mean I can't still admire it in the trucks of others.
I test drove a Snazzleberry Rubicon with these seats. While they looked very nice they were already getting in blue stains or discoloration from folks sliding in and out in jeans. I can’t see them staying nice for long but they were sharp.
 
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I just found this thread. Question Doc...

I ordered the 2.5” leveling kit from rough Country. Intended to get a inch or so for the rear. Decided to go with 3.5” because...
Long story short I’m not impressed with rough Country customer service. I won’t go into it. But... I now have a AEV 2” spacer lift on the way and the rough country is in the closet.
So I think I might go the 2.5” rough up front and the AEV 2” in the rear.
I already have tier 3 front and rear track bars on the way from CORE4x4.
My question is if I should bother to also order some adjustable lower control arms from CORE? Will they indeed help prevent “tire shimmy” if you adjust the lowers longer?
Geometry correction brackets do a different job than adjustable control arms. The relocation brackets change the angle of the lower control arm to keep them more parallel to the ground. The adjustable control arms can put caster back in to spec but they won’t change the angle of the control arm. I hate to say this but you probably don’t need the adjustable control arms with a 2-2.5” spacer lift. IMHO you’re better off with the relocation brackets.
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