The tough thing about reading too much about Wenches.

[OVERLORD]

Lots of posts on this site, plenty of time spent searching and reading, as this is my first wench, I'm hoping for some guidance on the install, if you folks would be so kind.

All the major wenching is done, Rugged Ridge Venator Bumper installed, with a 12 K Quadratec Wench.

Now the fun part, wiring the wench.

I like the idea of isolating the hot lead on the front end, Justin Case.

Here's my plan, with queries, and your guidance would be appreciated.

Ground lead, to frame, or battery?

Thinking about using a simple three terminal FOMOCO Starter Solenoid. Stout enough for the application?

Solenoid to be activated, by one of the switches on the accessory panel, any suggestions on which would best, or will minimal be sufficient?

This site has helped me so much with this Gladiator purchase and present mods so much, I trust your judgement, especially when it comes to wenches.

Thanks folks!

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[JAVIERGONZO]

 

[OVERLORD]

Sorry, I'm hooked on fonics, thanks for the guidance.

 

[chadinsc]

no idea. most people never actually wire them up. winches are for looks really. i like the look of that one with the chrome lines on top!

 

[OVERLORD]

MIne's gonna work. Short term, have some rocks to move, too big for this ol' guy. In the Fall some trees to take down and need some guidance in their FALL direction. Have a buddy with a PILE of large Oak Logs he wants moved so they can be processed. In the winter time, folks stuck here all the time. Mayhaps me too. Often on the fire roads I travel, a tree down can ruin a trip. Torn between the Harbor Fright and the Quadratec. The Q, on sale, was a lil cheaper than the HF, and had some amentities that the HF did not. Free shipping and FAST, had it on the doorstep in two days. Good reviews, what the hay.

 

[CerOf]

What ever solenoid, make sure it can handle the amps. A winch can pull in excess of 450amps.

Ground should go directly to the battery. It is a LOT of juice.

Folks have had good luck with the badlands. Their solenoids and fuse/bus terminals can melt.

Personally, I’d recommend you save up and go Warn. Their internals are more robust. When you NEED it, you NEED it and don’t want to be cursing about the $300 to $500 you saved.

 

[LostWoods]

Yeah don't skimp on the solenoid/switch. I personally just did a heavy duty Blue Sea switch because it's all of 10 seconds to pop the hood. Solenoids are great but I want to be positive my winch isn't energized and solenoids can have issues releasing under high heat with high current. These problems get worse when you use cheap crap so buy a reputable one.

They're all generally rated for a given current and a given duty cycle but winches typically do not run at a 100% duty cycle (if yours does you either hate money or are experienced enough with one you wouldn't ask the question). That means if your winch draws 450A, you don't need a 450A solenoid for your 30% DC winch... you need one that can do 450A on a 50% DC so you have a little safety factor. Those are typically going to be rated at 250-300A continuous but check the literature. Sites like Waytek, Mouser, and others will have OEM info that gives these ratings.

 

[Lunentucker]

Add me to the club of disappointed for clicking.

 

[Iowafarm]

What ever solenoid, make sure it can handle the amps. A winch can pull in excess of 450amps.

Groomd should go directly to the battery. It is a LOT of juice.

Folks have had good luck with the badlands. Their solenoids and fuse/bus terminals can melt.

Personally, I’d recommend you save up and go Warn. Their internals are more robust. When you NEED it, you NEED it and don’t want to be cursing about the $300 to $500 you saved.

Closer to a thousand. Can actually have a spare winch in your box and still spend less.

 

[aceisback]

For those that happened by due to the thread title:

 

[OVERLORD]

For those that happened by due to the thread title:

My wench looks nothing like that!

 

[OVERLORD]

What ever solenoid, make sure it can handle the amps. A winch can pull in excess of 450amps.

Groomd should go directly to the battery. It is a LOT of juice.

Folks have had good luck with the badlands. Their solenoids and fuse/bus terminals can melt.

Personally, I’d recommend you save up and go Warn. Their internals are more robust. When you NEED it, you NEED it and don’t want to be cursing about the $300 to $500 you saved.

Great point about the amperage need of a wench, too late I have the Q, but I have seen the Warn solenoid, which may be worth some research. My thanks! This is why I respect your guys opines when it comes to wenches.

 

[OVERLORD]

Digging now.

Found this one, so researching.

12V 500 AMP Unversal Winch Solenoid Relay Contactor For HEAVY DUTY UPGRADE AL... | eBay

Ordering more parts for the Jeep will make the wench so annoyed.

See what I did there.

Wench Solenoid.

Wench so Annoyed.

Me so funny, sometimes I even crack myself up.

Thanks for the help folks!

 

[ShadowsPapa]

Sorry, I'm hooked on fonics, thanks for the guidance.

LOL - fonics. Should be foniks.

Winch - has the word IN in it.

If I dared put a wench in or on my truck, i'd better have my stuff packed.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

Ground to top of crank battery negative on top of the IBS.

I'd be careful of a FoMoCo starter solenoid - they are only ever used for seconds at a time, and starter current isn't even close to what winch draw can be. I've seem the starter solenoid contacts weld together inside. The disk inside connects the two copper bolt heads inside.
May work - but I'd test the heck out of it before I actually needed it.
My first JT I ran the power for my Apex winch through the cutoff switch they supplied. It worked great - and I probably ran it longer than I should have before giving it a break last use but then its wasn't a REALLY hard pull, either.
This time for the new one, I'm going to run the Warn winch solenoid - reasons?
It's proven, it works with winches and hundreds of people have proven it,
If I slide off into the netherworld, will I be able to easily get the hood open, turn that switch, etc.? Probably, but it's an extra step in who-knows-what conditions.
The cutoff switch worked great - open hood, turn switch, use winch. Switch was right along the right fender under the hood next to the air intake. When I used it last I still had to use the stupid prop rod - maybe with the hood lift cylinders it could be easy - unhook hood latches, slide safety catch to my right with hand, let go of hood, it opens. But when I had the switch, I had to step on my toes to unhook and use the prop rod to hold the hood to turn the switch (I was pulling a guy out of a ditch and I was standing on ice)

So I guess I would likely still be fine with the big cutoff switch under the hood since I don't have to screw around propping the hood open while standing on an ice covered slope at the edge of a ditch.

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