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0W-40 in PUG 3.6

ShadowsPapa

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And dont believe that crap about use conventional for X-amount of miles before switching or the rings won't seal thats more silliness.
when I built the 4.0 for my SX4 - I put Mobil 1 in it from the word go. That's what it left my shop with and what it's had most of the last 15 years.
To this day, it can go between annual changes and not need anything added. Not bad for a 4.0 with a simple orifice in the valve cover for a PCV system.
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Gladiator007

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As long as it meets the spec specified by FCA.

Just remember that "recommended for" or "equivalent to" are not the same as meeting the spec, as other forum members have found out, and can lead to issues should you need to get warranty work done on the engine.
MS-6395 5w30 is also the spec, don't forget that
 

ShadowsPapa

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MS-6395 5w30 is also the spec, don't forget that
But not the recommended viscosity.
Don't get things twisted around. A lot of oils can "meet" specific "specs", but be wrong for an application.
I can point to a lot of decades and various auto makers who have dealt with that very issue.
It would include manual transmission fluids, hypoid gear lube, ATF, and more.
 

Maximus Gladius

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I recalled one other member here (earlier this year or was late last year) was running 0/40 after his first break-in oil change and was passionately adamant that this was his best decision for his new 3.6. (He hasn’t been back here since February 2025)

He posted his analysis report and here’s the snap shot. Again, my concern is the chromium is reading 2ppm at just after 6k miles. 2 is too high, …1 is normal, 2 is showing double the wear on the bearing surface you don’t want to see. Is 0/40 causing the oiling system to not deliver as it should. As a painter, if I try to spray a paint that’s thicker than it should be, the spray tip can’t deliver the proper spray pattern.

As @ShadowsPapa has indicated above, thicker means lack of oiling where it needs to go. Pressure has changed and volume amount lessens
(Paraphrasing and speculating what I think you said)
So to now gather this data point on this report and add it to the other recent post of another holiday traveller that changed to 0/40 because of hot ambient temps, and his chromium also showed 2ppm, I’m thinking 0/40 has contributed to the doubling of wear in the chromium department.

I’m still watching to see if there’s a correlation with other 0/40 reports.

Jeep Gladiator 0W-40 in PUG 3.6 IMG_4804
 
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Gladiator007

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But not the recommended viscosity.
Don't get things twisted around. A lot of oils can "meet" specific "specs", but be wrong for an application.
I can point to a lot of decades and various auto makers who have dealt with that very issue.
It would include manual transmission fluids, hypoid gear lube, ATF, and more.
They also recommend their Mopar oil, their recommendation doesn't mean anything
 

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Gladiator007

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I recalled one other member here (earlier this year or was late last year) was running 0/40 after his first break-in oil change and was passionately adamant that this was his best decision for his new 3.6. (He hasn’t been back here since February 2025)

He posted his analysis report and here’s the snap shot. Again, my concern is the chromium is reading 2ppm at just after 6k miles. 2 is too high, …1 is normal, 2 is showing double the wear on the bearing surface you don’t want to see. Is 0/40 causing the oiling system to not deliver as it should. As a painter, if I try to spray a paint that’s thicker than it should be, the spray tip can’t deliver the proper spray pattern.

As @ShadowsPapa has indicated above, thicker means lack of oiling where it needs to go. Pressure has changed and volume amount lessens
(Paraphrasing and speculating what I think you said)
So to know gather this data point on this report and add it to the other recent post of another holiday traveller that changed to 0/40 because of hot ambient temps, and his chromium also showed 2ppm, I’m thinking 0/40 has contributed to the doubling of wear in the chromium department.

I’m still watching to see if there’s a correlation with other 0/40 reports.

IMG_4804.jpg
At 160 degrees, 0w20 is thicker than 5w30, so at that temperature the motor is doomed?
 

ShadowsPapa

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that changed to 0/40 because of hot ambient temps,
That alone is evidence that people don't understand engines, oils, or how things work in general.
Ambient temperatures have nothing to do with that 2nd number, but people still insist "I live in TX (or FL) and thus need heavier oil".
Bunk

They also recommend their Mopar oil, their recommendation doesn't mean anything
You are obviously trolling - no one can really think that way.
They only "recommend" because it's a given it meets all specs, passes all of their testing. Of course they'll also make some money. But it's a safe oil, engineered for the engine, and the engine designed to run with it, tested with it. That's why it's recommended - made by Pennzoil to meet FCA specs for the upgrade engine (which FCA no longer calls the PUG because that name is being reserved for something else.)
 

ShadowsPapa

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At 160 degrees, 0w20 is thicker than 5w30, so at that temperature the motor is doomed?
What a clown.

Jeep Gladiator 0W-40 in PUG 3.6 1753728042538-od


Oil also operates a lot hotter than 160 degrees. it's just starting to warm up at that point.
 

Stan H

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That alone is evidence that people don't understand engines, oils, or how things work in general.
Ambient temperatures have nothing to do with that 2nd number, but people still insist "I live in TX (or FL) and thus need heavier oil".
Bunk



You are obviously tolling - no one can really think that way.
They only "recommend" because it's a given it meets all specs, passes all of their testing. Of course they'll also make some money.
Please @ShadowsPapa let me grab my popcorn 🍿 :clap: :CWL: this is about to get really good.
 

Stan H

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Stan H

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So at that point oil is thick and "not reaching where it should?"
If that as you say holds true then why use a oil that at temp behaves like a 40 weight instead of a 20 weight. Lol
 

ShadowsPapa

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Please @ShadowsPapa let me grab my popcorn 🍿 :clap: :CWL: this is about to get really good.
He's just a troll. That's pretty obvious now, and has no clue about much of anything engine related and it just trying to poke at this point.
The problem with a proper debate is that there's only so many facts I can use, while he can forever make shit up.
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