0w40 Euro spec motor oil in the 3.6 Pentastar PSU

[Maximus Gladius]

Ouch. The OC tech clearly picked up the quality and substance of the Pentastar and mistook it for a Cummins Cummins take 11 or 12 quarts on an OC, if memory serves me.

Generally, I've always felt that the engines I've been inside of could be overfilled by at least 2 quarts without fear of crank strike or oil aeration. At 6 quarts overfilled, I share your concern.

Several mistakes happened.
1. the crate engine came with 6 L in it. My understanding is that engines that are shipped do not have oil in them and this one already came overfilled by 1 L.
2. the tech assumed it came empty and didn’t look.
3. the tech put in 6 L when it should have been 5. There’s a TSB on engines that take 6 vs 5 (and yes, @ShadowsPapa, the FCA TSB list shows there is an “upgraded 3.6 engine” just read it the other day, I’ll find it again and post it here.)
4. I trusted everything was done right when I picked it up and I didn’t check. I was blinded by having a new engine and tranny and I had a trip to BC to make right away. 7.5 months down with my truck and I finally got it back….

So, OP, you and I are looking at analysis reports that have elevated wear numbers. So there’s few options I see if we are to keep using what we want and have better numbers…change earlier.

My iron is way too high @ 5-7k kms and some of your numbers are also too high for my liking and for us both, science and math would say there is a point in our putting on miles that those wear numbers reach the levels when an oil change should be done if we want lower numbers.

For you, I’d say I would change at 3 - 4K miles and have another look. You’ll have great data points to go by and it’s just math after that, OR thin up the viscosity some, drive another 6k miles and see what the numbers are. Do they trend better or stay the same. Your engine is young and you’re just starting to gather data.

My multiple oil analyses and oil changes done early and switching brands from QS to Mobil 1 EP has shown me some cool data. The additive packages are very different BUT it hasn’t made any difference in the IRON wear. I thought it would. I’m loving the other wear metal numbers and I still have zero blow by.

This last oil change I have increased my viscosity from running Mobil 1 EP 3 - 0/20 and 2 - 5/30 to now 2 - 0/20 and 3 - 5/30 and I will take a sample and change again at 5k km.

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[Maximus Gladius]

@ShadowsPapa, the 3.6 “upgrade engine” is noted here and there is a way to identify an upgrade engine.

 

[TheRealStreetcommander]

Update. I’m approaching 15,000 miles and my next oil change interval. I’ll be sending another sample for analysis and we should get some more data to review. I’ll post the results in this thread same as last time.

Wollmart did not have M1-0w40 Euro, so I bought and will use Rotella T6 5w40 for this next interval. I’ll start a new thread when I go T6 and post the UOA’s similar to this 0w40 thread.

Real world data and experiences from actual Gladiator/Pentastar owners provide a helpful check-sum against the popular internet lore and the oil occult.

15,000 miles and all is well.

 

[TheRealStreetcommander]

Rotella T6 5w40 did go in at ~15k. We had a long trip scheduled and I procrastinated, so I changed the oil in a hurry and did not sample. Already have almost 5k on the T6. Averaged between 19-21mpg over the 3500 mile trip with T6 in the crankcase --hand calc'ing.

I've been using 40 weight oil since new on this Pentastar. I don't really understand how, but my engine has not turned to dust yet, the cam phasers still work, Jeep hasn't surreptitiously sampled my oil and sent me warranty-void letter, my cam's big lobe still engages and disengages at 3k rpm as it should, and my cat hasn't been poisoned.

I'll sample and send away this T6 on my next OCI.

 

[Fishpilot]

Any more updates using 0w-40 Euro? Thanks

 

[TheRealStreetcommander]

No, not for the 0w40. I’ve been continuing to run Rotella T6 5w40. The 0w40 euro has just been too damn hard to find without having to overpay. T6 is universally available, very cheap, and a genuinely decent oil.

Pentastar are great engines.

FWIW, both M1 0w40 and T6 5w40 shear to 30w almost immediately.

 

[Hootbro]

No, not for the 0w40. I’ve been continuing to run Rotella T6 5w40. The 0w40 euro has just been too damn hard to find without having to overpay. T6 is universally available, very cheap, and a genuinely decent oil.

Pentastar are great engines.

FWIW, both M1 0w40 and T6 5w40 shear to 30w almost immediately.

Any oil analysis on the Rotella T6 5W-40 run? I would be interested to see as I have picked up a quantity of Delo 400 XSP 5W-40 for cheap.

 

[TheRealStreetcommander]

Negative. I may this summer and I’ll report the findings if so.

It doesn’t really matter though, because even if it started throwing metals, I wouldn’t switch back to 0w20. No reason for me to pretend. The UOA would just be for posterity.

 

[Hootbro]

Negative. I may this summer and I’ll report the findings if so.

It doesn’t really matter though, because even if it started throwing metals, I wouldn’t switch back to 0w20. No reason for me to pretend. The UOA would just be for posterity.

It would be nice to have the data point.

 

[Sandman 4x4]

I can’t see any reason why using 0W40 Mobil 1 Euro full synthetic oil, that’s the same viscosity at start up, but keeps a thicker viscosity at higher operating temperatures, would do anything wrong? Especially considering that using 0w20 oil has accelerated valve train wear, which is a proven fact in many well-maintained, by-the-book manufacturers' maintenance schedules. So how could a thicker oil film NOT help? The only negative is the tiny loss of parasitic loss of gas mileage?

 

[Minty JL]

I just followed the GM TSB went from 0w20 to 5w30. Engine is quieter and runs smooth.

I do my oil changes every 4-5k seems to be the sweet spot. Another thing I do to clean things up is run about 1/3 of Seafoam in the oil for 50ish miles before the change.

Some may agree or dispute my methods, but has worked for me.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

I just followed the GM TSB went from 0w20 to 5w30. Engine is quieter and runs smooth.

I do my oil changes every 4-5k seems to be the sweet spot. Another thing I do to clean things up is run about 1/3 of Seafoam in the oil for 50ish miles before the change.

Some may agree or dispute my methods, but has worked for me.

You do realize that the gm situation was due to rough crankshaft finishes and that once the engine was repaired or replaced - they went right back to the 0w20........... they no longer recommend 5w30.

I can’t see any reason why using 0W40 Mobil 1 Euro full synthetic oil, that’s the same viscosity at start up, but keeps a thicker viscosity at higher operating temperatures, would do anything wrong? Especially considering that using 0w20 oil has accelerated valve train wear, which is a proven fact in many well-maintained, by-the-book manufacturers' maintenance schedules. So how could a thicker oil film NOT help? The only negative is the tiny loss of parasitic loss of gas mileage?

I laugh because you state that as a fact, and it is not proven nor a fact at this point.
Two points - millions of these go over 100,000 miles, even much more, with no cam issues
and
If you did any research, you'd find examples of people losing cams who had been using the heavier oil to prevent cam issues - that sort of proves, in a limited way, that if it's going to go, it will go regardless, and if it isn't destined to fail, it won't regardless of the oil.

The only thing we can say is that SHORT TERM, we haven't seen reported issues with OTHER areas using the heavier oil.
But we have seen cam failures using the heavier oil (example found in the Wrangler side where the guy posted a shrug - because it didn't seem to matter.

There is no proof, and no fact at all. Only speculation and opinion - save for one fact - the cams can still fail with heavier oil, but we don't know if it does or does not reduce percentages.

So you can't state shit as fact.

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