2" AEV spacer and Geometry brackets

[JTGuy]

I know that brackets will improve the ride. I have about a 2 inch or more lift and everything is Synergy also. I have the Mopar lift front lowers that give me 6 deg caster and don't have the stock factory ones. Brackets will give me close to 8 deg caster with them. Not sure what to do as many say the brackets don't work with a small 2.5 lift.
You have the triangle rear so how is that one. My rear is kind of funky on freeway G outs.

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[Gizmo]

Or just buy a drag link flip kit with raised track bar mount from metalcloak (which I run) or synergy, or steersmarts (which the wife runs) or others for less than half. All the benefits to handling you get from that kit for ~$700. Especially if you've already got a model that comes with the steel knuckles like my mojave or the wife's JLUR with the XR package. Sure the tie rod sits lower than the rock jock, but I don't play bull dozer with my front axle so it's never been a problem. Even if I picked a bad line I'd rather hit my tie rod than cave in my dif cover or impact the FAD area which is a known weak point on these axles.

How well does that work with only 2.5-3"lift ? Not to good, Rock jock is designed for what the OP seemed to be concerned with was my point

 

[darkhorse13]

I know that brackets will improve the ride. I have about a 2 inch or more lift and everything is Synergy also. I have the Mopar lift front lowers that give me 6 deg caster and don't have the stock factory ones. Brackets will give me close to 8 deg caster with them. Not sure what to do as many say the brackets don't work with a small 2.5 lift.
You have the triangle rear so how is that one. My rear is kind of funky on freeway G outs.

If you have adjustable front uppers just extend them to correct caster with your extended Mopar lowers (if I recall they are only 1/8" longer than OEM Mopar). If you don't have adjustable front uppers, then I know a guy with perfectly good Synergy Mfg uppers to sell you (hint, it's me).

The AEV Dual Sport Standard Capacity lift is a small 2.5" lift and you just need at least 2 inch of bump stop up front... don't see why the brackets wouldn't work of you if you just had adjustable uppers to dial in your caster.

 

[darkhorse13]

How well does that work with only 2.5-3"lift ? Not to good, Rock jock is designed for what the OP seemed to be concerned with

Well I personally wouldn't go so far to say that track bar relocation brackets are "not good" for a smaller lift, you simply need at least 3in of bump stop up front to keep the track bar and tie rod out of the frame and other components... ask me how I know. The track bar relocation bracket though does work with a 2.5"-3" lift. I'm not saying the Rock Jock stuff is bad, there are options though.

 

[Gizmo]

I understand how it works as I did it on my JK . It would seem kind of pointless for OP to lift 2-2.5" and add 3" of bump stop in my eyes . Curries system is designed for 2.5" of lift and no more bumpstop than is usually required for a couple inches of lift t of lift. You can also clearance the frame as some do rather than 3" bump stops on the usual DL Flip. To me its not always which is cheaper . In my case Rockjock with 3" lift was perfect

 

[Zachanadandy]

How well does that work with only 2.5-3"lift ? Not to good, Rock jock is designed for what the OP seemed to be concerned with was my point

I still have the 2" bump stop extensions from the AEV kit with no clearance issues. The 3.5" springs wouldn't change where the suspension bottoms out in the slightest so yes you could run the Mc kit with just the 2" kit. Never felt like I needed it with just the 2" lift though. Unlike the 20" long control arms the nearly 4' long drag link doesn't have much of an Angie change at just 2"

 

[Gizmo]

I still have the 2" bump stop extensions from the AEV kit with no clearance issues. The 3.5" springs wouldn't change where the suspension bottoms out in the slightest so yes you could run the Mc kit with just the 2" kit. Never felt like I needed it with just the 2" lift though. Unlike the 20" long control arms the nearly 4' long drag link doesn't have much of an Angie change at just 2"

DL flip with 2" bump stops , If you say so ...Not the norm

 

[Gizmo]

Well I personally wouldn't go so far to say that track bar relocation brackets are "not good" for a smaller lift, you simply need at least 3in of bump stop up front to keep the track bar and tie rod out of the frame and other components... ask me how I know. The track bar relocation bracket though does work with a 2.5"-3" lift. I'm not saying the Rock Jock stuff is bad, there are options though.

My post was directed at the OP who has a couple inches of lift not lifted enough for the usual DL flip

 

[JTGuy]

I am really tired of the hit the frame takes on street bumps so I am probably going to order the JKS brackets. I might just try to use the Mopar lift lower arms that will give me too much caster, 8 deg. But I can correct that later. Will Synergy lowers work? Or maybe just some factory stock lowers.

 

[JTGuy]

Ordered the JKS brackets. Will use the factory Mopar 2 inch lift control arms as my alignment guy says that 8 deg caster will be ok . I'll let you know .

 

[darkhorse13]

Will Synergy lowers work?

No, post #105

 

[darkhorse13]

Ordered the JKS brackets. Will use the factory Mopar 2 inch lift control arms as my alignment guy says that 8 deg caster will be ok . I'll let you know .

8 degrees is too much. I'll make you a great deal on my Synergy uppers if you just want to buy them and do it correctly. = https://www.jeepgladiatorforum.com/...nt-adjustable-control-arms-upper-lower.95457/

 

[Gizmo]

Ordered the JKS brackets. Will use the factory Mopar 2 inch lift control arms as my alignment guy says that 8 deg caster will be ok . I'll let you know .

How does he feel about your pinion angle at 8 degrees caster ?

 

[JTGuy]

Remember that the front DS does not move except when in 4x4 mode.

 

[Zachanadandy]

Remember that the front DS does not move except when in 4x4 mode.

And you'll just hope you never encounter snow or sand or a muddy hill where you need both 4wd and wheel speed? Yes the fad let's us get away with more caster and worse pinion angle on the freeway but if you go extreme you might as well remove 4HI as it will be useless. If you're only crawling then it would be fine. On rock only rigs we used to build our own long travel front shafts out of square tube, 1 slid inside the other with a yoke welded on the end. No balancing, no regard for angles, worked fine below 20-25mph but 4HI was useless.

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