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2022 gladiator death wobble

ShadowsPapa

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According to [Banned Site] and the owner of dynatrak they should be toed in 1/8 of an inch. Once your going down the road they actually start pulling apart. So you want them in a little so they pull straight.
Good starting point.......... but there's a reason they use degrees in most cases these day. 1/8" toe in measured on a 32" tire will be a lot more when measured with a 35" tire and yet if you reduce the toe-in with that bigger tire, you may cause issues.
Bigger tire, wider tire, center of tire out farther than the line through the king pin, they want to force outward even more than stock.
Starting with 1/8" in is a great spot to start.
In any case, 0 ain't good unless you have weird circumstances that cause the tires to want to toe inward, and it happens depending on the changes made.

Jeep Gladiator 2022 gladiator death wobble 1673807093098

Jeep Gladiator 2022 gladiator death wobble 1673807118767


If you change tire diameter and nothing else, you shift the point of intersection to above the road. (as these have minimal camber, that line isn't as exaggerated as in this image)
Change wheels and you move the intersection below the road by moving the centerline of the tire outward.

Jeep Gladiator 2022 gladiator death wobble 1673807269155
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Burghardphotography

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/THREAD right here

In addition negative offset with 37’s was DW waiting to happen IMO. Also, to the OP, I wouldn’t focus on the truck being “new” since you essentially redesigned the suspension entirely. I would start with a +offset wheel and CA drop brackets, then go from there. ¯\_(ツ)_/¯

Well with my -25 offset l will happily test your theory. No way I’m changing these wheels, my rig is perfect the way it is. Drives 10x better than stock.

Jeep Gladiator 2022 gladiator death wobble CED2F253-1EA5-49F9-8B61-98F33DC62159
 

ShadowsPapa

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Well with my -25 offset l will happily test your theory. No way I’m changing these wheels, my rig is perfect the way it is. Drives 10x better than stock.

CED2F253-1EA5-49F9-8B61-98F33DC62159.jpeg
It works for your individual configuration and combination of parts and changes. Can't say it's ideal for any Jeep. It works for you and your preferences and the other stuff you've done.




People act like things don't work together and parts can be thrown in with no consideration to what is being impacted.
 

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It works for your individual configuration and combination of parts and changes. Can't say it's ideal for any Jeep. It works for you and your preferences and the other stuff you've done.




People act like things don't work together and parts can be thrown in with no consideration to what is being impacted.
Hence why I gave him my list of parts, as that’s working combination with 10’s of thousands of strenuous trail miles behind it, and a decade of industry know-how.

What people? I don’t see anyone in here advocating that you can just throw parts together Willy-Nilly.
 

ShadowsPapa

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Hence why I gave him my list of parts, as that’s working combination with 10’s of thousands of strenuous trail miles behind it, and a decade of industry know-how.

What people? I don’t see anyone in here advocating that you can just throw parts together Willy-Nilly.
No one says it, but they do it....... look at how this thread started.
Happens all the time, look around at the posts where someone threw on a lift kit or made some other change and now something else isn't working.
They don't advocate - they do.
Even here you see "you don't need xxxx" and so on. Getting by.
 

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I'm still tinkering with toe. I drove it quite a bit the last few weeks slightly towed out, and it's been great.
I toed it in the other night, just to see how it feels. Tested a few times and ran it up to 90 today. I swear I think it's ever so slightly better with a tiny bit of toe out.
I'll give it a few days and then might try it out again before deciding.
None of it's scientific ?
 
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According to [Banned Site] and the owner of dynatrak they should be toed in 1/8 of an inch. Once your going down the road they actually start pulling apart. So you want them in a little so they pull straight.
I thought so to and asked about that, they said we may try that as well.
 
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Have you tried rotating the tires? Just to rule out it’s not a tire or wheel issue.
Yes, I’ve rotated the tires every 3-4K miles usually before the oil change even.
 

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I knew I'd seen it somewhere.

Not to further muddy the water, but I knew I'd seen it somewhere.
Steer Smarts calls for 1/2 degree toe out in the instructions that come with their alignment plates. ?

Jeep Gladiator 2022 gladiator death wobble Screenshot_20230115-202105
 
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The factory ball joints have a plastic insert that never lasts long with big tires. Before I put on big tires I did a ball joint delete kit and problem solved.
Ball joint deletes from American Iron is my next move once the steer smarts sector shaft brace goes on this week.
 

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Though I am not a fan of drop brackets like I said, it’s worth noting that I did just find this thread with another user in the comments with Clayton lift experiencing the same issue. Apparently drop brackets did solve it for him. I still think that’s just masking the real issue.

https://www.jeepgladiatorforum.com/forum/threads/control-arm-drop-brackets.62134/post-1026841

Did the give you the cross measurements? I don’t see them on your Print-out like I do on mine.
I agree, the drop brackets do make sense. I just know a lot of people running the Clayton that haven’t used them and not had any trouble. But every vehicle is different. And it’s drove amazing until now. And no the shop did not and I was wondering that myself looking at their sheet compared to yours. I didn’t see the cross measurements, but know physically I measured and the front axle is 5/8” more to the drivers side. Clayton says it should be centered as much as possible. But to take out the upper control arms when moving the track bar or it will put the upper control arms in a bind.
 
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The people I know who are running them say they last forever so its easy peace of mind.
I’ve not found play anywhere, and though I can’t or the shop can find any in the ball joints it makes sense with camber issues on the passengers side from the alignment sheet.
 

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I’ve not found play anywhere, and though I can’t or the shop can find any in the ball joints it makes sense with camber issues on the passengers side from the alignment sheet.
did they take the knuckle off and verify the ball joints are good or just try to pry the tire? ( take the knuckle off )

also did they pull bolts to look for elongated holes. sometimes elongation of holes can be hidden by torqued bolts.
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