35” vs. 37” tires and belly scraping

[Zachanadandy]

I have seen it done for less, but drop off at shop and pick up with axles will run you 20-25. Thats the number given to me. There is some work on adjusting length and connecting sensors brakes etc No lift needed as all the portal does is move the wheel out and down. It is the best way to actually increase clearance.
Your axles and pumpkins do not come up that much with bigger tires and the lift does nothing for that, just helps with angles
Lift and bigger tires plus gear ratio will only do so much if you measure from the ground to the pumpkin for example, but will also run you a good tab

I disagree that it's the best way. There's a reason why you see almost no ultra4 cars or rock bouncers on portals. The portal box is a massive lever arm hugely increasing load/torque on axle tubes, control arms, mounts, etc. Every impact with an obstacle is literally trying to twist the control arms and axle tubes. For low speed crawling you won't see better ground clearance (although I've drug the same axles through the rubicon, dusy, Fordyce, and hundreds of other trails for over a decade on my old xj and never came close to wearing through the pumpkin so do you really need that clearance). High speed, especially out in the desert or some of the massive potholes we have on our crap roads and I'd worry about twisting a tube or bending the control arms especially if you're running the stock light duty units. Sure if you're looking for lift, gearing, and clearance while maintaining stock crap shocks and limited flex it's an option but I don't know if call it the best one especially in my mojave that sees desert dirt at freeway speeds.

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[mx5red]

That’s not poser rock. That’s just along the trail at BL. I don’t think mine scraped that. I only scraped, and almost got stuck along some wash my confused ass went down. Poser rock is at Uwharrie in NC. No Gladiator is making it over that.

Hmm, the Wrangler guys I wheel with would all attest I scrape and get hung up and eventually teeter over every boulder we pass… soo, I’m pretty sure I could awkwardly make it over this one?

 

[mx5red]

Yes sir! They are quite stout but they took a beating on Mottino wash. It made them look like they've been on for a couple years when I jut got them for Christmas. I have their rear control arm and shock skids as well. Will be doing fronts soon.

Nice! They dented but didn’t bend, it looks like.
I put an engine skid because I was worried about ripping these off somewhere and getting stranded.

 

[GMag]

Nice! They dented but didn’t bend, it looks like.
I put an engine skid because I was worried about ripping these off somewhere and getting stranded.

What skid did you go with? I've been contemplating one as I scraped the exhaust right there already.

(Sorry OP, didn't mean to hijack the thread)

 

[tom.mary.glad]

What skid did you go with? I've been contemplating one as I scraped the exhaust right there already.

(Sorry OP, didn't mean to hijack the thread)

No problem hijacking my thread. Maybe I’ll learn something.

 

[Pilsner]

I agree with going 37s and lift. I did regear and would recommend it, but that's up to you. No way I'd spend portal money. I'd go built 44s or tons and 40s instead. Not suggesting skids aren't needed, but they are sure needed more on a stock truck.

 

[mx5red]

What skid did you go with? I've been contemplating one as I scraped the exhaust right there already.

(Sorry OP, didn't mean to hijack the thread)

A few of us have the ASFIR skid. Inexpensive, aluminum, seems totally fine for its purpose. I have a few scratches on mine especially back where the bolts are but seems perfectly sturdy. The bolts in the OEM transfer case skid are more torn up since these have the beveled washers protecting them.
Craigger on wrangler forum posted this, that’s the most I’ve seen any damaged. Said he slammed down on something in big bear and cracked a weld.

 

[Tommyd]

I’m an inch higher than that with Asfir aluminum front to back and I still touch. Just depends on what your definition of off road is. It’s different for everyone.

Yeah I mostly do our local off-road park that’s mostly atv trails. Not many rocks.

 

[johnchabin]

Then, you will want an "all-Terrain" tire for quiet and good on road wet traction.

For a 37x12.5x17 tire, any tire 80 lbs or less is "light". For a 8.5x17 rim, under 30 lbs is considered "light". I like aggressive big lug tires, so called, "mud-terrains". I am currently running the Yokamaha Geolandars MT G003 and they run approx. 77 lbs., and they have been great for the last 30K miles. I can recommend them. Also, the all terrain tires are usually lighter than the mud-terrain tires. Nittos run heavier, but, are great tires. The Nitto Trail Grapplers M/T (mud terrains) in the same size are 88 lbs. If you look up the tires you want on America's/Discount tire, you can see the weight.

Note: Rotating and rebalancing the tires every 5K to 6K miles will make them last twice as long. I buy my tires from Americas tire/Discount tire because they offer free re-balancing and rotation for the life of the tires.

Note: I forgot to mention that the 37" tires will hurt your acceleration if you do not get lower gears for the front and rear differentials. I run 5:13s. This is a big expense. So, if that concerns you and you already have 4:10 gears (Rubicon), then, the 35's will not lose as much acceleration. If you do not 4wheel much, and do not do rock crawling, then, that is a good enough reason to stay with 35" tires.

Food for thought, that Yokohama also comes in a 37x11.50R17 @ 70.5 lbs:

https://www.yokohamatire.com/tires/geolandar-m-t-g003-sxs

 

[Jefe1018]

37’s on a 2 inch lift… don’t think I ever wheeled hard enough to find a limit, let alone scrape.

Here’s the closest I think I got:

 

[tom.mary.glad]

I went with 3.5" metalcloak gamechanger lift, 4.88 gears, front E Locker, 37" x 12.5" x 17" Toyo Open Country R/T Trail tires. FYI 13 mpg around town in flat TX. Haven't been on highway trip yet.

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